I like it tom. I always cut the track with the same “doll house” knife
If you look at the ranch saber you can see where the actually dug into the tracks side profile
Real rush job
ESB Bladed Stunt Graflex Lightsaber "The Core!"
- Thread starter thd9791
- Start date
I like it tom. I always cut the track with the same “doll house” knife
If you look at the ranch saber you can see where the actually dug into the tracks side profile
Real rush job
Bless you, I can find them on eBay. But can’t lock in how old they are.. it’s just too random
Yes please more info!
I’ve never seen an antenna that didn’t taper until the end and that was thick enough (a bit smaller than the bunny ear ring)
That one you posted seems to taper right off the bat though
I am downvoting aluminum ski poles for screen accuracy based on the lack of bent blades and the whack noise. Maybe they were composite
But antenna elements? I’m intrigued
I’ve never seen an antenna that didn’t taper until the end and that was thick enough (a bit smaller than the bunny ear ring)
That one you posted seems to taper right off the bat though
I am downvoting aluminum ski poles for screen accuracy based on the lack of bent blades and the whack noise. Maybe they were composite
But antenna elements? I’m intrigued
Yes please more info!
I’ve never seen an antenna that didn’t taper until the end and that was thick enough (a bit smaller than the bunny ear ring)
That one you posted seems to taper right off the bat though
I am downvoting aluminum ski poles for screen accuracy based on the lack of bent blades and the whack noise. Maybe they were composite
But antenna elements? I’m intrigued
The antenna I posted is actually the MIDDLE section of the entire antenna assembly and seems to be just about right.
I'm completely with you. Military surplus antennas or tank antennas do make sense to me, I've seen images of different examples with screen accurate taper from the base to the tip and also with a threaded rod sticking out of the base end. I just don't buy the WW2 tank antenna Steve Sansweet is referring to in that video from his Vader lightsaber.
Also, I have never noticed a bent stunt lightsaber blade in behind the scenes footage from ESB and ROTJ, which rules out aluminum stunt blades for me. From the numerous black markings seen on the stunt blades from ESB and ROTJ it is my impression that they can withstand a hell lot of beating.
So, I thought I would be slick and CA/superglue track on temporarily, drill them out, and put e6000 on when they popped off. I learned the CA glue trick from a Star Trek Phaser kit Anakin Starkiller encouraged me to build once.
Everything was working out well. Until the screws I had .. basically these but with a more accurate head..
They wouldn't screw into the flash bottom. I know they're not self-tapping technically, but I thought they were similar to Roy's screws. Maybe I didn't force them hard enough, but what I ended up doing was widening the holes little by little... and then they popped through. I feel like this was a pretty rookie mistake. Roman's bottom looked a tad thicker than the real flashes I've drilled. Maybe I should have tapped a machine screw... but I remember doing the exactra screws with no problem.
regardless, I swabbed putty in the holes... but the holes were so exact there was no room for putty and it just pushed through. Then I used E6000 in the screw holes and under the track. Should be good for now..
Also, that superglue I used as prop-makers trick for temporary hold.... dripped onto the clamp. and I superglued the clamp bars to the clamp! What! Anyway, that was yesterday. Today I'm going to check the silicone glue and clean the CA glue off of everything.
I may have a good idea for blade retention coming soon. I found carriage bolts that were not the standard shiny ones.
Everything was working out well. Until the screws I had .. basically these but with a more accurate head..
They wouldn't screw into the flash bottom. I know they're not self-tapping technically, but I thought they were similar to Roy's screws. Maybe I didn't force them hard enough, but what I ended up doing was widening the holes little by little... and then they popped through. I feel like this was a pretty rookie mistake. Roman's bottom looked a tad thicker than the real flashes I've drilled. Maybe I should have tapped a machine screw... but I remember doing the exactra screws with no problem.
regardless, I swabbed putty in the holes... but the holes were so exact there was no room for putty and it just pushed through. Then I used E6000 in the screw holes and under the track. Should be good for now..
Also, that superglue I used as prop-makers trick for temporary hold.... dripped onto the clamp. and I superglued the clamp bars to the clamp! What! Anyway, that was yesterday. Today I'm going to check the silicone glue and clean the CA glue off of everything.
I may have a good idea for blade retention coming soon. I found carriage bolts that were not the standard shiny ones.
Mouse Vader
Sr Member
I Understand that acetone unsticks superglue, though I've not tried it. New here looking into stunt blades, Those antenna look good. I'm picking up a one piece fishing rod tomorrow that I was thinking of using. I'll let yous all know what it's like if you want?
Absolutely! I'd love to hear how fishing rods pan out.
Acetone and plastic cutlery got the super glue off.
The E6000 is holding the grips and screws in place, since I had to open up the holes instead of the screws tapping themselves
eh, it's a hell of a glue, so I think were good. I always prefer hardware attachments but Halliqwaxes tip on this glue has changed my mind.
This is the dull grey skinny cast carriage bolt. I sliced the head off (has a dome and a square shoulder) and coarse thread I think... had to screw it in with pliers, but it IS 3/8 16. I think. I swear lol
Instead of finding a bushing, my girlfriend and I decided to DRILL OUT a 4.25 inch piece of aluminum. We got a drill press vice just for this, and had to drill from both ends. ***** ******, the guys at my metal supplier asked if I had access to a lathe... and I said I have a small drill press? They laughed. I did it, nearly centered, and I'm never doing this again without better equipment. I am proud however. I used wd 40 and stopped when it started smoking. My finger shows how long the bushing is.
I will eventually tap 2 or 3 set screws along the shaft, and I took a pair of pliers and hammered this into place. Vadermania is right, ski poles are a hair smaller than 5/8 or whatever, so the spacer can be press fit into place.
The hilt is pretty hefty and very pleasing to hold. The plastic track is great. My Hero ESB has painted Malaysian track and the paint didn't quite cure so I hate holding it. I may decorate another bottom for it, and figure out my screw problem.. for the life of me I've never had screws refuse to twist into a graflex
Acetone and plastic cutlery got the super glue off.
The E6000 is holding the grips and screws in place, since I had to open up the holes instead of the screws tapping themselves
eh, it's a hell of a glue, so I think were good. I always prefer hardware attachments but Halliqwaxes tip on this glue has changed my mind.
This is the dull grey skinny cast carriage bolt. I sliced the head off (has a dome and a square shoulder) and coarse thread I think... had to screw it in with pliers, but it IS 3/8 16. I think. I swear lol
Instead of finding a bushing, my girlfriend and I decided to DRILL OUT a 4.25 inch piece of aluminum. We got a drill press vice just for this, and had to drill from both ends. ***** ******, the guys at my metal supplier asked if I had access to a lathe... and I said I have a small drill press? They laughed. I did it, nearly centered, and I'm never doing this again without better equipment. I am proud however. I used wd 40 and stopped when it started smoking. My finger shows how long the bushing is.
I will eventually tap 2 or 3 set screws along the shaft, and I took a pair of pliers and hammered this into place. Vadermania is right, ski poles are a hair smaller than 5/8 or whatever, so the spacer can be press fit into place.
The hilt is pretty hefty and very pleasing to hold. The plastic track is great. My Hero ESB has painted Malaysian track and the paint didn't quite cure so I hate holding it. I may decorate another bottom for it, and figure out my screw problem.. for the life of me I've never had screws refuse to twist into a graflex
I also haven a few ski poles that I'm not using if anyone wants to experiment.
Tom I’m so proud of ya man!! Great work!!
Hey here’s a screw trick for ya! You can remove the screws. Then find a wooden dowel
Sand the wooden dowel until it fits inside the bottom tube of the graflex, stand the tube on its end , and the dowel beside it
Mark the dowel just 1/4” or so higher then where the screws are on the graflex
Cut the dowel, then put that wooden “disc” now in the bottom of the graflex. The screws will now screw into the wood, locking them in place
Of course you don’t have to do this because the e6000 works amazing
But if you want a true mechanical attachment that is a option for you
The screws roy supply’s with his kit isn’t a machine screw, nor do I have taps for that. Those screws are more for wood or plastic
So I always drill a very small hole in the graflex and screw his screws into that. I forgot what exact bit I use, but it’s very tiny
I wouldn’t stress it though man, that stuff will hold car panels together!!
Hey here’s a screw trick for ya! You can remove the screws. Then find a wooden dowel
Sand the wooden dowel until it fits inside the bottom tube of the graflex, stand the tube on its end , and the dowel beside it
Mark the dowel just 1/4” or so higher then where the screws are on the graflex
Cut the dowel, then put that wooden “disc” now in the bottom of the graflex. The screws will now screw into the wood, locking them in place
Of course you don’t have to do this because the e6000 works amazing
But if you want a true mechanical attachment that is a option for you
The screws roy supply’s with his kit isn’t a machine screw, nor do I have taps for that. Those screws are more for wood or plastic
So I always drill a very small hole in the graflex and screw his screws into that. I forgot what exact bit I use, but it’s very tiny
I wouldn’t stress it though man, that stuff will hold car panels together!!
Thats a great tip! Actually I may do that for the next saber bottom I do. You're right though, thanks for the reassurance on this glue, if it holds car panels together this will be just fine
I may go back to using a threaded rod. it fits in the hole I drilled better than this cast bolt.
I may go back to using a threaded rod. it fits in the hole I drilled better than this cast bolt.
Mouse Vader
Sr Member
Glad the acetone did the job. As Halliwax says heat also decomposes superglue (I think it starts about 100 C) but also melts plastic so it's good to know both methods. Got me fishing rod & also managed to get a graphite shafted golfclub for £2 at a charity shop.
The rod is not as one piece as I thought as it is a push fit into the handle. here it is sans foam grip. handle section is 16mm od carbon fiber. rod is 14mm at base, again a woven carbon fiber - 6mm at the tip & about 8mm at 36". It's much more flexible than the club shaft as you might have guessed. feels like it may be more resistant to strikes but I'm not after a combat blade.
Club has yielded as 36" blade 15mm at the base 8.8mm at the tip. It's much more like what I was after. Both are very light. From the research I've been doing it's very close dim's wise to ANH stunt graflex or will be once the scotchlite is on it. So close I think it stands a chance of being what was used in the film though I know this is a very controversial subject. It was actually looking for more info on the mythical triangular blade that brought me to RPF.
If you are still dead set on ski poles I remembered I have a pair of Komerdell carv juniors I bought for a dif project (charity shop again) 1.25m long 18mm od 'aircraft' (aluminium) alloy ? I looked them up on fleabay & they're about £12-15 new the pair. I would think they're available in the USA too.
Another thing I remembered that might be of use for combat is fiberglass ramrods (muzzle loading guns). I bought some way back from Dixie gunworks ( Canada if I recall correctly) I have 3/8 & 1/2" diam x 49" long but straight not tapered, can't recall if they did 5/8. These are very flexible & strong but return to straight well. For the mo I think I'll be sticking (pun not intended) to golf clubs as they're cheap & readily available & may well be pukka for ANH. Don't know when I'll get around to making any of this up, it was only at xmas that I decided I'd get myself a LS. I now have 5, the last one a solo's hold v2 which is the one that has really given me the bug bad. I'm looking to build a motorised ANH graflex stunt. (last pic didn't go full size for some reason - thumbnail below)
The rod is not as one piece as I thought as it is a push fit into the handle. here it is sans foam grip. handle section is 16mm od carbon fiber. rod is 14mm at base, again a woven carbon fiber - 6mm at the tip & about 8mm at 36". It's much more flexible than the club shaft as you might have guessed. feels like it may be more resistant to strikes but I'm not after a combat blade.
Club has yielded as 36" blade 15mm at the base 8.8mm at the tip. It's much more like what I was after. Both are very light. From the research I've been doing it's very close dim's wise to ANH stunt graflex or will be once the scotchlite is on it. So close I think it stands a chance of being what was used in the film though I know this is a very controversial subject. It was actually looking for more info on the mythical triangular blade that brought me to RPF.
If you are still dead set on ski poles I remembered I have a pair of Komerdell carv juniors I bought for a dif project (charity shop again) 1.25m long 18mm od 'aircraft' (aluminium) alloy ? I looked them up on fleabay & they're about £12-15 new the pair. I would think they're available in the USA too.
Another thing I remembered that might be of use for combat is fiberglass ramrods (muzzle loading guns). I bought some way back from Dixie gunworks ( Canada if I recall correctly) I have 3/8 & 1/2" diam x 49" long but straight not tapered, can't recall if they did 5/8. These are very flexible & strong but return to straight well. For the mo I think I'll be sticking (pun not intended) to golf clubs as they're cheap & readily available & may well be pukka for ANH. Don't know when I'll get around to making any of this up, it was only at xmas that I decided I'd get myself a LS. I now have 5, the last one a solo's hold v2 which is the one that has really given me the bug bad. I'm looking to build a motorised ANH graflex stunt. (last pic didn't go full size for some reason - thumbnail below)
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Whoa thats an awesome amount of information, thank you!
I compare diameters to the Graflex bulb ring, and I use those large Black and White photos Scottjua posted of the Bespin, wampa, and other ESB scenes. Golf shafts looked a bit too skinny to me.
Ski poles are (so far) the only things that have a matching shape. Smooth straight shaft until a taper near the last 1/4 of the rod. Though I will say some rods from Jedi are different shapes and lengths.
Good eye on those poles - they look like good candidates!
Again, my doubts on aluminum since there aren't any pictures of bent blades, but they're the best candidates in my opinion
I compare diameters to the Graflex bulb ring, and I use those large Black and White photos Scottjua posted of the Bespin, wampa, and other ESB scenes. Golf shafts looked a bit too skinny to me.
Ski poles are (so far) the only things that have a matching shape. Smooth straight shaft until a taper near the last 1/4 of the rod. Though I will say some rods from Jedi are different shapes and lengths.
Good eye on those poles - they look like good candidates!
Again, my doubts on aluminum since there aren't any pictures of bent blades, but they're the best candidates in my opinion
Okay here of some beauty shots of the raw piece.
Here is the spacer I made with a drill press, it’s like 4 inches long. I actually hammered it in deeper and sliced the rod shorter.
Once I metal filed it all smooth, I installed 3 set screws and made dimples in a steel threaded rod. The last set screw drifted a little bit...
I did a lot of measuring. I used a found part, this weird brass plate that had countersink screws on it, as a washer to protect the plastic socket, just in case. I dusted it black with grill paint.
Now the rod is stuck into the ski pole and I can twist it into the Graflex. It’s almost 3.5 Graflexes long which is a bit longer than I had anticipated.
Here is the spacer I made with a drill press, it’s like 4 inches long. I actually hammered it in deeper and sliced the rod shorter.
Once I metal filed it all smooth, I installed 3 set screws and made dimples in a steel threaded rod. The last set screw drifted a little bit...
I did a lot of measuring. I used a found part, this weird brass plate that had countersink screws on it, as a washer to protect the plastic socket, just in case. I dusted it black with grill paint.
Now the rod is stuck into the ski pole and I can twist it into the Graflex. It’s almost 3.5 Graflexes long which is a bit longer than I had anticipated.
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