Obi-Wan Kenobi Episode 1 Resin Stunt Lightsaber Research

I’m not wasting any time with this one. Finally get a chance to test the custom paints for real. Three coats of primer followed by three coats of black.
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So Dewy... when are you going to buy a vacuum metallizing machine? We're gonna need some of these resin castings chromed up for a first-ever legit AOTC replica... :)

Maybe something like this would be a (only slightly) cheaper option... "Liquid Mirror."

MIRROR - the world’s mirroriest mirror chrome paint

Youtube review:

Costs $$, looks great, but not sure how well it holds up to handling without some kind of clear coat. Needs to be applied with an HVLP gun or airbrush in thin coats, with proper surface prep/undercoats.
 
So Dewy... when are you going to buy a vacuum metallizing machine? We're gonna need some of these resin castings chromed up for a first-ever legit AOTC replica... :)

Maybe something like this would be a (only slightly) cheaper option... "Liquid Mirror."

MIRROR - the world’s mirroriest mirror chrome paint

Youtube review:

Costs $$, looks great, but not sure how well it holds up to handling without some kind of clear coat. Needs to be applied with an HVLP gun or airbrush in thin coats, with proper surface prep/undercoats.

I have looked into that and this: Easy Chrome - The World's Most Exotic Finishes

However, it seems like all of these products are too good to be true. The reviews and results are mixed. It seems like they work well in ideal conditions.

I think the best solution would be to work with a local vacuum metallization/plating shop in person. That way, in theory, I could be more involved and they can be more easily held accountable for results. I’ll need to do more research into all of this, but that’s way down the road. First I want to take this Episode 1 stunt saber project to conclusion.
 
When I get home from work I need to tape up the latest casting and start putting down same layers of silver.

I also need to get started with making the new mold, but before I do that I need to prep the saber I will be using as my master. The Smooth-On Mold Max 29NV is relatively low viscosity which means every possible crevice in the saber needs to be sealed with clay. On my previous molds, I only sealed the obvious major holes, and the slightly more viscous silicone was able to creep into nearly all the threaded connections, making disassembling the saber afterwards difficult. For example, I inadvertently had a mold of the threads on the LED bezels and the set screws beneath the pommel cubes. This new silicone is not only less viscous, but also ~2x as strong meaning if I’m not careful, the whole thing will essentially be permanently bonded together.
 
While I’m waiting for paint to dry, I started prepping my master hero saber. Since I want to make the new mold without the covertech knob I needed to find an M3.5 screw that could hold the saber together. I couldn’t find any set screws, so I had to make my own. It’s not pretty, but it works.

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That IS looking really close! Very cool to see the process coming along!

I still need to try some of the paints Saberz recommended, but I am really happy with this stuff. It goes on so easy and is not picky about conditions. The black was sprayed on at 90°F, and the silver was sprayed on at 97°F. I noticed the Tamiya sprays are really picky about temperature/humidity.
 
While I’m waiting for paint to dry, I started prepping my master hero saber. Since I want to make the new mold without the covertech knob I needed to find an M3.5 screw that could hold the saber together. I couldn’t find any set screws, so I had to make my own. It’s not pretty, but it works.

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This is exactly what they did on the Hero Luke saber under the emitter lip. I mean.. it’s been nearly blanked since then, so someone ground it down afterwards but I have a feeling this was done for molding just like you did.

There is still clay in a bunch of grooves/buttons or holes on a lot of the prequel hero sabers when they were photographed
 
I spent most of the day prepping my master saber for mold making. It is incredibly tedious packing clay into every tiny gap that isn’t represented in detail on the production stunt sabers. However now the new cylindrical cut mold is in the pressure pot curing. Should be done in ~5 hours.

In the meantime I finished painting the latest casting. This is the first one that is fully painted with the custom spray paints I ordered. I haven’t had a chance to get the recommended dark red Rustoleum, but I did I take the advice of Saberz and mixed in some darker Tamiya reds.

For all these pictures from left to right or closest to farthest: custom sprays, Tamiya, Duplicolor:

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