ESB Bladed Stunt Graflex Lightsaber "The Core!"

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by thd9791, Dec 27, 2018.

  1. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Hi y'all

    here's another project that's been in my mind and I finally have started to gather parts and brainstorm. I could use ALL the help I can get, and am really open to correction, critique and better ideas.

    I did it once with a Canon flash, JB Welded Tractor bushing and some PVC pipe. Worked okay.

    I then did it with a ROTJ Lightsaber blank made by Noah M (I forget his user name) and a blade/socket made by Halliwax as a favor. Worked pretty well, at least for photographs and light twirling.

    I also accidentally figured out how a core was installed into the Vader ROTJ Magic of Myth Lightsaber. I'd like to bring those two projects together.

    here are my past projects and plans for an Empire Strikes Back bladed stunt. I have no idea what to use for a blade either, so yea, I'm grumpy about that too.

    Would this work?
    ROTJTom.jpg ROTJTomoff.jpg duelingtom.jpg Vader1st.jpg VaderROTJTom.jpg Yumasocket.jpg
     

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    Last edited: Dec 27, 2018
  2. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Dang I posted the plans sideways, hold on. fullsizeoutput_12fd.jpeg
     
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  3. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Tom I have total faith you will destroy this project. And by “destroy” I mean “make totally awesome”.
     
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  4. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Excellent Tom!! Love the sketch’s! I can totally see this work!!!
     
  5. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I’m setting up a few pieces of this ahead of time, but this was a fluke today. Halliwax inspired me to go buy a golf club myself. Went through three stacks of them at a local thrift store and there were very few that had smooth shafts and were thick. I found a decent one (they’re all 99¢) and took it home.

    I originally measured the clearance in the bulb retaining ring to be 19 mm. After a decent amount of eyeballing and comparing angles I guessed the ESB fencing blades to be around 16-18 mm wide.

    This golf club is barely over 16 mm at its thickest point, and made of carbon fiber. I thought it was thicker, but the rubber handle was incredibly heavy duty. So the 16 mm before the handle stayed at 16 beneath it as well.
    62F870D7-FB41-47A1-8D06-DF9F63A3897A.jpeg F7D535E7-0F6A-44CD-90D5-F113CC4ACFF2.jpeg DE6FFD62-8362-48DD-884B-8E41E299E404.jpeg

    I also was not a fan of how quickly it tapered, however it looked a bit different after cutting it down. Through Seth’s guide it looked like the blades were 3 and 1/3 or 1/2 Graflex flashes long., plus the height of the socket area. I casually measured that with something...
    C7984EB2-C58E-4679-B35C-E5EF3DAB7EAF.jpeg 122261BD-E7E1-49CA-9766-57007F475EBF.jpeg 05D94845-AD55-4B1B-BFB6-3BE32B5446EA.jpeg

    It seems 1-3 mm too skinny, but that’s pretty small. Here in green is my guestimate and in red is the golf shaft.
    1F235DC2-F86E-4F1F-9A63-53945D71055F.jpeg

    27C42CE7-748F-4E07-B2D1-4F2A9D938138.jpeg 121B282A-9576-40BD-BDA1-AAE069E811B0.jpeg
    It will fit a 3/8 16 threaded rod with some bushing or filler

    and that can be threaded down the socket into a core like a tang.
    121B282A-9576-40BD-BDA1-AAE069E811B0.jpeg

    I’m also amazed at how light this is. Makes me skeptical, but it’s a good option to explore. I can’t say anything about evidence of the OT though. Feels like with the core this will be incredibly bottom heavy.

    It does look and feel pretty cool though :)
     

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  6. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Here is me boiling the handle trying to get it off. I ended up slicing it with a saw on a multi tool like an autopsy and peeling it off. I only used a little hacksaw to get the business end off. Carbon fiber cannot be bent so I had to completely saw through.
     

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  7. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Tom wicked!! I had to do the same thing, I had to use a razor blade and cut the handle off

    You grabbed your clubs for a buck as well?! Crazy!

    I know we can’t prove the clubs were used, but for what we need them for I think they are a cheap and easy solution!

    Can’t wait to see where this goes!!
     
  8. russellsch

    russellsch Sr Member

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    The Thrift Store is a great place to get clubs. They're like $1. I've gone through a few of them over the years. It's a fun way to clear small rocks from the property (or least from the area where I'm at). I also whack bamboo shoots in the spring with them :lol:. I'll go the local driving range as well, once in a while.
    I never would've thought of using them as a lightsaber blade though. Brilliant!
     
  9. jts1031

    jts1031 Well-Known Member

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    The golf shafts are graphite and by the time you get them in a club, they've been trimmed down. The sizes tend to be pretty standard with the butt having a diameter of .600" and a length of 47", then it's cut to length, with the butt being trimmed. There are also three kinds of tips, one being tapered to .335", iron shafts at .355", and then a parallel tip at .370". The cheapest graphite shaft will be around $12. You'll also find different weights on shafts, measured in grams.
     
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  10. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    interesting! do you know why some of the metal ones look stepped and are much skinnier? It seemed at the thrift store there were metal stepped ones and then the smooth ones, probably graphite. I think were looking for rods around .7" or a bit less at the butt *facepalm
     
  11. jts1031

    jts1031 Well-Known Member

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    The traditional style has been to have steps in steel shafts, which was first seen in the 1920s. It allows more control over the flexibility and kickpoint of the shaft doing it this way. That being said, there is a Project X Rifle shaft that has no steps and tapers straight, as well as KBS C-Taper shafts that are similar. In the 1970s, graphite was almost phased out because it wasn't very durable and there were limits to how well they could get it to perform. Once they started to add other materials to improve stability and durability in the 80s they really caught on.

    Those of you wanting to remove grips, the easiest is to cut them off. And then the easiest way to get any grip tape off the shaft is to heat it with a propane torch for a bit. It'll remove easily at that point.
     
  12. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Sounds like you are a golfer? You sure do know a lot about clubs. What is your personal belief on wha though see in these photos and your club experience?
     
  13. jts1031

    jts1031 Well-Known Member

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    I think they work fine for what you're using them for, but I'd certainly not want to use them for any type of dueling. They don't take well to strikes, and I've seen some of them snap just from the torque of a swing. They can splinter and cause injury that way. For that reason, I can't see them being used for filming. A dow rod would work so much better and be easier to source in my mind. But I know for Episode I they used aluminum painted rods wrapped in cellophane because the paint would chip and fly off during strikes, so I don't know to what lengths they'd go to just use what they had.
     
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  14. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks for the advice! Really appreciate it
     
  15. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    That golf club just didn't seem right for a Graflex. I had to hold it in my hands, cut it and wield it to really start to learn the shape it should be.

    I learned about as much as I could from it, so I started playing around with it and sure enough.... it fit into a Kobold socket. Like the detachable internal socket you pop out of the top of a Kobold flash to make a droid caller.

    My socket was sitting inside a Leitz flash on a custom saber. Well, the socket isn't very deep, so I drilled into the kobold socket and bakelite of the flash to sink it in deeper. The only drill bits I had were a tad too small, so I stuck a threaded rod down there instead, and jammed the blade over it.

    The flash's bits weren't solid. the cylinder inside for the bulb/switches was hollow so I can to cut up some plastic bits as bushings and stick them in there too, so it's not perfectly straight ...but most of the parts are a tight fit. E6000 is holding this together, and will make this a good test or experiment off paper for my final graflex.

    By the way, I got my graflex today in a package of blem sabers and Roman's was slightly smaller than a couple of my real flashes. About 1/3 of a mm. That was enough to make a perfectly snug fit for my core.
     

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  16. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Here are some shots of my test saber 20190111_154938.jpg 20190111_154918.jpg
     
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  17. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Dang Tom!!! That looks awesome!!
     
  18. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Guys, Ski poles come in a few standard diameters. The largest one is exactly my guestimation of 18mm. Also, the shape matches much better: not tapering until at least 2/3 of the blade. Also, they come in aluminum, carbon fiber and fiberglass composite. Maybe, just maybe, they kept buying a * ton of any ski pole they could find. i've contacted a company about raw aluminum poles and 1-2 folks about used ones.
     
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  19. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I live for this...
     
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  20. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    In the meantime, this is where that golf club went. Used some Green tape left over from that Yuma Stunt I did (you can see it lighting up in the background behind a new Romans MPP and Graflex)

    This makes me more confident that we're on the right track. My oopsie was glueing the internal rod into the flash but not the blade, which vibrates. so it rattles every time its hit.

    fullsizeoutput_1388.jpeg fullsizeoutput_138a.jpeg fullsizeoutput_1387.jpeg
     
  21. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    That scotchlite looks awesome
     
  22. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks!

    Tonight I prepped the Graflex.

    Okay, now that I accidentally italicized that sentence let me show you. I completely disassembled Romans Graflex socket (thank god those bunny ears are threaded) and put it back together with only the main socket screws and the plates/nut for the front slotted screw. I left out the bulb socket main spring and pin, so there’s room to drill and tap for a threaded blade.
    8F25B641-3C23-4CF9-8CB8-5D8066FB40A0.jpeg
    The brass pins are long enough that they have to be put back in from the outside, after the socket is slid back into place.
    F34ABE26-5CAD-439A-B2E4-347645C91912.jpeg

    So now I realize that I can’t copy the Vader saber. Why? Both red buttons are in place on the ESB saber, and the famous empty socket on the Vader saber where you can see the insert... it would get in the way, in this configuration it never had a button there, maybe that’s why the tire valve is stuck in.

    So it’s time to slide my core into place and mark where the screws are going to go. I first placed the one we see on Dagobah peeking out under Marks fingers under the beer tab. Then, diagonally, the ones on each side.
    548F5E94-BE63-4FC3-826E-F862BB57C507.jpeg 594EAF45-3B14-408B-8A5E-3ECEE539597B.png 18E3A930-E1B6-4922-AB4A-02DC9D25C9C1.jpeg


    That bolt, if it is one in the second photo, is very high up. I decided to alter mine a bit based on all the photos there are.

    Also, I decided to hide number 4 under the clamp :)
    A78261AB-129A-450E-B346-BFDFAC1D5F76.jpeg 23A1B81C-61DB-420F-9B13-AF8775D65227.jpeg
     
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  23. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Freak’n perfect, thanks for posting this! Now I get your PM!!

    I was also going to say how did you located the screws. I knew of the 1 black and white pic on dagobah, but didn’t know of the rest!!

    Good freak’n eyes man!!
     
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  24. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Tom we haven’t talked about the blade

    What are you using for a blade? Because you are going to need 3/8-16 bolt to attach to the blade to screw into the hilt right?
     
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  25. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yes - I'm trying to find a ski pole and when I do, I plan on doing a Vadermania and drilling and tapping an insert to plug the bottom?
     
  26. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yup! So the ski pole would have a 3/8-16 bolt/rod coming out the bottom. Which will slide into the graflex bulb release section, the screw into the aluminum round stock, great idea!!
     
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  27. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Even though Ski poles taper at the end - these replacement poles are not tapered.

    "

    Maša Leskošek <sales@tehnomat.si>
    Mon, Jan 14, 3:03 AM (1 day ago)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    to me, sales
    [​IMG]






    Dear Mr. Delmonte,

    thank you for your email.
    Unfortunately we don't offer tapered alu tubes.

    If you'd be interested in cylindricALU tubes (fi 14, 16 and 18 mm) the price is 13,50€/kg (without VAT).

    The weight of cylindrical ALU tubes is:
    - 14 mm x 0,8 mm - tube 3m long: 283g
    - 16 mm x 0,7 mm - tube 3m long: 289g
    - 18 mm x 0,7 mm - tube 3m long: 327g

    In case of any additional questions please feel free to contact us.

    Kind regards,
    Maša
    Maša Leskošek

    Tehnomat, Kranj, d.o.o.
    Jezerska cesta 55, SLO-4000 Kranj, Slovenia
    ---------------------------------------------------
    E-mail: sales@tehnomat.si
    Phone: +386 4 2351810
    Fax: +386 4 2351811
    ---------------------------------------------------
    http://www.tehnomat.si
    http://www.ski-poles-accessories.com
    On 12.01.2019 07:00, t.delmonte9@gmail.com wrote:
    Na strani www.ski-poles-accessories.com je bil ustvarjen kontakt.

    Ime in priimek: Tom Delmonte
    Podjetje:
    Naslov:
    Pošta: Buffalo, NY USA
    Telefon:
    E-pošta: t.delmonte9@gmail.com
    Komentar: Hi, I wanted to ask what the current prices are for 18mm Aluminum ski pole shafts? Pice for each, and if it changes for a bulk order? An image of a full tapered rod would be helpful too. Thank you! Tom Delmonte
     
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  28. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    The search continues
     
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  29. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Oh, I haven't given up on ski poles. This means I get to cut up a used one :D
     
  30. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Ok, we all know Tom as a huge “stunt” guy. He’s helped me out a lot with all my stunt builds

    Actually most of my stunt builds are just copied from Tom lol he never has a problem helping the community reach their goals.

    Tom asked if I could drill and tap some holes in his ESB bladed stunt. So I told him to send it my way and I’ll bang it out

    Before I go destroying someone else’s lightsaber I wanted to double check with Tom on everything he wanted me to do

    I ran by him every step I was going to do. The I asked to hear what his plan was, and then we would compare each other’s steps and come up with a plan. Then he told me “I was going to do exactly what you said” the anxiety was lifted and work began!!

    So first I gathered all his pieces. Tom actually marked every hole he wanted already with a X. And labeled with tape instructions on what size threads

    He made this really easy, all I had to do was literally drill and tap holes

    IMG_7771.jpg

    He also found some beautiful vintage screws!!

    Next I wrapped the entire graflex in gaffers tape. This stuff works great for protecting things.

    It also works great for covering up boosters ;) SethS

    IMG_7772.jpg

    I center punched where the X lands and off to the shed...
    IMG_7773.jpg

    So before I begin drilling I want these straight, so I swapped out my end mill chuck for my drill chuck, and centering gauge
    IMG_7774.jpg

    I drilled my pilot hole with a 1/8” drill bit. I drilled in 18mm deep
    IMG_7775.jpg

    Next step was to drill the pilot whole with the actual 1/4-20 drill for the tap
    IMG_7776.jpg

    After I tapped it i doubled checked to make sure the thread works, sure enough we are good!!
    IMG_7777.jpg


    Now that the thread is tapped, I used my counter sink, this took me forever because I would plunge a little, write down my depth. Then test the screw, then repeat. Probably the scariest part of the job...and the first one was the most time consuming
    IMG_7780.jpg

    I did this for all 4 holes he wanted, drill pilot, drill with the drill bit for the tap, then tap the hole.
    IMG_7793.jpg

    One key thing to doing this was locking the “core” into orientation. I would complete each screw one at a time. So this way I don’t have to re center the saber. And the first screw locks everything into place so I don’t have to worry about orientation changing

    Once I had all the holes, drilled, tapped. And counter sunk. I removed the core to clean all the threads

    Because I was using cutting oil, the bottom of the screw holes would fill with chunks. And the vacuum wouldn’t pull them out. So I would blast the hole with wd-40 while using the vacuum. And they came out squeaky clean!

    IMG_7790.jpg

    Next step Tom asked to drill a hole right down the bulb socket hole. Might I add I didn’t have to remove any of this stuff, Tom sent it ready to roll! And saved me a lot of time
    IMG_7794.jpg

    So the saber is centered up, and I drilled down into the flash, hitting the aluminum core. I wanted to just make a mark because the drill bit ran out of stroke, now with the core marked I can remove the core and drill it with out the flash on it

    IMG_7795.jpg

    The glass eye actually chucked plastic out of it when I was drilling, like the graflex was throwing up or something lol
    IMG_7796.jpg

    IMG_7797.jpg

    IMG_7798.jpg

    The tap handle I brought home from the big shop was the wrong size.. I tapped this with a adjustable wrench. It worked out great
    IMG_7800.jpg

    I ended up counter sinking the top.. only because I thought this would help “align” the bolt when he put it down the flash
    IMG_7804.jpg

    Here’s a view from the other end
    IMG_7801.jpg

    The holes I drilled in the side of the flash for the bolts, there was some burs so it really bit into the core and was really tough to get out. So I sanded the inside of the flash and removed the burs, the core slides in perfectly now
    IMG_7805.jpg

    Here we are all back together
    IMG_7815.jpg

    This was a fun little project. Can’t wait to see what ya do with it Tom! She’s leaving back to you in the morning! Keep us all updated!!
     
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  31. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Jesus Danny, this is amazing to read though. The documentation alone rivals mugutu and his grenade repair thread!

    I have to say, you saved my * here. I have a hard time tapping straight, and my equipment isn't large enough to do this safely. Thank you so much! It was a good call chatting beforehand, but I wasn't worried when the guy who has my saber is rigging up V2's one after another

    I bet this feels pretty solid, at least it will be a weapon if anyone robs me.

    next step is decorating the 3 cell bottom (kobold replica clip, T track and screws)

    and then developing a blade and adapter, with a threaded tang that you so kindly made!

    "I don't care at this juncture. Tony? Will you do me a kindness? Don't slam the * DOOR"
    winnebago.jpg

    Will update soon :)
     
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  32. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    No worries Tom. You help me out all the time. Glad I can return the favor

    This thing is solid!! And heavy!! You now know what this means...

    I need one for myself!! Lol

    What do you plan on using for a blade? The ski pole?

    It may take me a little while to do something but that’s because before I do it i run through my head ever possibly error.. this way I cover all my bases

    It’s a trick my dad taught me on the job site

    Before you drill or cut, think of every possible error.. make sure your not going to do it. And when all is clear, do it

    Again, this sucker is heavy!!!
     
  33. thegnome

    thegnome New Member

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    Are you thinking of drilling holes into the metal cylinder to make it lighter?
     
  34. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    It’s already heading back to Tom

    I personally like the weight, Anderson has even been on record stating how he design the hilts, and put weight in them to counter balance the blade

    I think Tom is going to be very happy with it, and achieve his mission
     
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  35. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    That's not something that I've thought of...

    We know from people like vadermania that the DV6 is a very heavy lightsaber, and the core/blade that was handled in that behind the scenes video with Roger Christian also looked to only have holes drilled for the bolts. The blade didn't even go all the way through, the bottom of the core was solid. For this reason, I think I may leave it alone.
     
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  36. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    So, unfortunately like most projects, we were prone to human error. Somehow the countersink ended up deep below the surface, instead of starting at the Graflex wall. Thankfully the holes were a tad too small and that meant the bolts still pinched the Graflex to the core. I went ahead and countersunk the rim of the hole to give the bolts some more surface area to grip AND to get them flush with the surface, then I filled the “tunnel” straight bore section with apoxie sculpt, so I think we’re in good shape. I also burrowed the threaded rod deeper into the core. Here is a dry loose fit with the wrong size ski C0754AF6-1600-47D0-9C19-AE1F5FA3F821.jpeg pole F0342C0C-B2BD-4A08-9FE5-086F552F6B8C.jpeg F80B5AE7-189C-4955-BF51-F8A8DDC8912B.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2019
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  37. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Here’s what I learned about the drilling of countersinks. The widest point should be at the surface, and any straight drilling just lowers the countersink to a deeper level. 53EBBF6A-C1E6-4A5D-B627-BAFDAA41FED8.png 1893E8A1-67F0-48F7-8175-D68D82C3C5C1.jpeg 3D4A1B7A-A870-4018-8581-3FCF2CA09EF6.jpeg
     
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  38. nailuj

    nailuj Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Love the saber rack in the background. Like a jedi armoury.
     
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  39. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Tom that looks awesome! Why don’t you like the ski pole?
     
  40. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    This Ski pole is only 16mm wide at the base. From what I've seen in BTS shots, the blades almost fill the bunny ear ring, with some space to spare

    ESBBladesocket.jpg ESBVLbladesjpg.jpg


    I've been comparing the thickness of the blades to the square hole for the reflector dish, and to the profile of the Graflex top, or the buttons. the blades look like they're the same size or larger than the red buttons. These 16mm rods are about the diameter of the beveled area of the button. This is weird. I will say, the shape looks and feels right.
     
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  41. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Aaahhhh I see it now.. crap... the golf clubs are also close to 15mm at their thickest...

    Do they make larger ski poles? Not this Sunday but maybe next I’m gonna hit up the flea market see if there’s any there. What size are you looking for exactly?
     
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  42. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yes they do! Some ski poles clock in at 18 mm! Stovepipe Sr. is one new example that is the right size. I'm on the hunt for those thick ones without paying 50 bucks.

    bring some calipers when you go! it will look weird, but they're probably thicker than your thumb
     
  43. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Alright, those jr. ski poles are the wrong thickness, but there's still much to learn. I got a refund and was told not to send them back. So that means it's experiment time!

    This is a rivet nut, it's 3/8 16 and it's a cylinder with a flange. Probably meant to embed in wood or something. It exactly fits the ski pole, no joke. The red flakes are rubber from the handle. I had to slit it open and pry it loose with a screwdriver before twisting it off. 20190130_155126.jpg 20190130_155158.jpg
    Now, the threaded rod I have is still long so I wrapped some painters tape around the other end to limit the rattle inside the blade.
    20190130_155055.jpg 20190130_155323.jpg
    I added a little e6000 to the rivet nut and the threaded rod too just for a temp solution. When tightened together, they hold up pretty well with the core. No dueling, haven't even thought about that since they might have done something else like got the blade into the core somehow

    Anyways, tried to hold it like we might see in a bts photo, it's pretty secure and the aluminum blade is a little heavier than you'd expect, leveling out the lightsaber
    20190130_151859.jpg
     
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  44. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    The word for a pipe with a expanded end got censored, I'm sorry, I don't know why!
     
  45. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Tom I’m definitely bringing my mics. I actually have a extra set in my glove box I use them so much in stores lol

    That brass nut I’ve never seen before, really quick thinking on how to adapt the ski pole over!
     
  46. vadermania

    vadermania Well-Known Member

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    Very, very cool! My ski pole on my V3 measures 17,5mm at the base, and I got it for less than 30 Euros on German evilbay. But as I mentioned in another thread before, the taper starts around the middle of the pole which I think is not sceen accurate.
     
  47. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Hopefully the ski poles I have coming to me taper 2/3 or more down the length. Do you remember what sort of adapter is inside your ski pole? I plan on using set screws but I have to fill the space inside too, I'm thinking I may tap a piece of round stock and make my own threaded spacer
     
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  48. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Why isn’t this onto a second page?!

    Anyway, I stole a thin knurled red button from my attempt at an ANH stunt and sliced up a 7 digit readout extender card by Heald. Here’s a comparison with one is Scottjuas photos
    A7B3617C-06B3-4C8B-959E-8A87D4EBDC02.jpeg 3DD14E63-89FC-4B7B-930D-3DCAA41AFC85.jpeg 5FD08BC8-1C47-478E-8CA4-73B3F0C4A306.jpeg
     
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  49. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Tom this looks wicked!! Where on earth did you find that circuit board?!
     
  50. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Mods, should a second or third page have been triggered?

    Anyway redbutton got ahold of this thing and helped me rivet a Kobold clip on the bottom 20190201_142849.jpg 20190201_142932.jpg 20190201_133658.jpg
     

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