you got me googling how to do this now... i should be in bed resting for all the snow shoveling tomorrow but nooooooooo Mr rogers has to post this info tonight
Magic of Myth ( MoM ) Luke RotJ Hero ( cave build ) lightsaber research, images, reference, & collaborative model builder's discussion.
- Thread starter BRRogers
- Start date
Goodie2325
Active Member
You had me at Static. It's been a joy watching this team develop this hilt over the past few years. From Fx to Static, you can't go wrong.
im hoarding statics when announced
Goodie2325
Active Member
Don't be a hoarder!
Nice work Bryan! Looks great! A vinyl stencil would definitely be a good option for getting them consistent if you were doing a lot of them, like Danny says. Or if you were wanting to send something out to help people do it themselves. They're proving to be a good option with the pommel damage, which I'm applying with a rotary tool.
As for the dark spot/shadow "behind" (?) The buttons... I agonised over this for quite some time, as I thought it **could** be a hole in the face of the control box. I decided it just wasn't conclusive enough, and could just as well be a small chip/sharp edge on the plastic buttons (if they are plastic of course).
It's still hard to say for certain, but the box is well lit from the right hand side/front, so I'd say that rules out that it's a shadow.
I think I still lean towards it being a part of the actual button.
Something I've never considered (until right this second) is that the buttons could be wrapped in black tape?? Perhaps the little sliver in the top corner is the end of the tape hanging over the edge slightly. If that makes sense?
Just some thoughts. Great work as always Bryan.
As for the dark spot/shadow "behind" (?) The buttons... I agonised over this for quite some time, as I thought it **could** be a hole in the face of the control box. I decided it just wasn't conclusive enough, and could just as well be a small chip/sharp edge on the plastic buttons (if they are plastic of course).
It's still hard to say for certain, but the box is well lit from the right hand side/front, so I'd say that rules out that it's a shadow.
I think I still lean towards it being a part of the actual button.
Something I've never considered (until right this second) is that the buttons could be wrapped in black tape?? Perhaps the little sliver in the top corner is the end of the tape hanging over the edge slightly. If that makes sense?
Just some thoughts. Great work as always Bryan.
JediRabbi
New Member
Blizzard conditions here in MA, too! Power keeps flickering - here's hoping it stays up...
Took a second look at this today - looks like my early attempts at making a better surface to glue to… rough it up with a dremel
Do we know for sure if the Yuma box was machined out of one piece, or if the lever was a separate piece? That weird possible hole behind the front button could be some sort of pin hole or remnant if the lever was separate.
Smooth aluminum hastily glued to another smooth aluminum surface wouldn’t stick, I’ve done this and had better results with more topography… pins or at least a buzzed surface
The one *great* Yuma reference I know of is the high res chin shot… but of course that’s the other side anyway high res or not. I can’t tell from film stills… but I do firmly believe the lever was severed somehow and marred both the bottom of the lever and the face of the button section. If you look at the *top* of the buttons in the references- I believe assertions can be made that it was marred at the same time with the same tool in a mirrored pattern.
Now:
I can’t believe I forgot to cross post!
Thread 'Thin Neck Thanksgiving- Luke Cave Found Parts Revealed!'
Thin Neck Thanksgiving- Luke Cave Found Parts Revealed!
In this thread I reveal the parts I found late 2021 and early 2022.
Wrapping up 3 items in the “cave build” found parts section.
I believe the last item to find will be the hard won actual clamp card seen with visible clear conformal coating.
And bets are open if the arrows are found parts or fabricated still.
And of course: a belated Happy New Year! To everyone who’s watching this thread. Best to you all!
Piggy backing off BRRogers post, I was lucky enough to acquire the correct vintage cave tool and Casio Reveal card for my personal collection
But in an effort to create a fully complete hero box, I was also able to find a Vector Board (as Bryan stated still on the lookout for the perfect conformal coating)
But best of all, was also able to acquire some ILM production used Death Star II Brass for the internals
Excited to figure out the assembly and wiring of the control box to finish it off
But in an effort to create a fully complete hero box, I was also able to find a Vector Board (as Bryan stated still on the lookout for the perfect conformal coating)
But best of all, was also able to acquire some ILM production used Death Star II Brass for the internals
Excited to figure out the assembly and wiring of the control box to finish it off
absolutely beautiful, congrats! calc looks to be in great shape and its amazing to see the brass in person!!!
BRRogers Do you have a shot showing the mirrored damage handy? or the specific photos and I can dig them up myself, having trouble picturing this. I know the damage under the buttons, which I was thinking was from sloppy cutting or added texture for glue to grip but the other damage I must have missed
BRRogers Do you have a shot showing the mirrored damage handy? or the specific photos and I can dig them up myself, having trouble picturing this. I know the damage under the buttons, which I was thinking was from sloppy cutting or added texture for glue to grip but the other damage I must have missed
What kind of tools / machine was needed back in the 80s to make such small triangle holes in the aluminum plate? Isn't it just too much effort to build from scratch what essentially is auto-reverse indicator, instead of taking one from some tape player? Or compared to just drilling 2 simple round holes , putting 2 3mm leds in them and be done with it?
I'm sure other people already have spent countless hours looking at vintage car tape players, etc. so I'm not going to, but just from the effort prespective to make a control box with 2 blinking lights looks like it was most likely a found part.
Poikilotherm
Sr Member
I currently prefer the Hero control box black buttons to have real scars on the bottom rather than glue. I had completely compromised when I made it on the box. It reminds me of the scene when the crew used a file to trim the switches on the Yuma box. Of course the yuma control box still looks very broken in that high resolution.
Poikilotherm
Sr Member
The MOM box is indeed a bit small, if you want to put the Vintage circuit board into the MOM control box, then you need to trim down the thin walls on both sides of the MOM box to the same size 1.5MM thickness at the same time, then the Vintage circuit board can be installed properly! Unless your Vintage board is larger in size than mine, then it will require more trimming to fit properly. At least I'm currently 1.5MM thick on both sides.
I didn't measure, but I guess the walls on mine were at least 1.5mm to begin with. Now are at 1mm to have enough space on the sides of the chip to match what I'm seeing here:
On the outside the box is 18.23mm wide, so that leaves 16mm for the board.
On the outside the box is 18.23mm wide, so that leaves 16mm for the board.
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