Interest Veracity Labs - "The Princess" (Leia lightsaber) hilt Interest Thread

(Assuming this is a detach point have you given any thought to supplying "just" the pommel with the belt clip as an extra add-on so we could mix and match? Best of both worlds?

pom.jpg
 
I don't think that's a double groove at the base of the grip/clip. I think its a rivet or screw but blends in because of the low resolution.

yep. They are counterbore screw holes. I don't have it as a groove. Just the angle and perspective is deceiving. I DO however have the holes too small right now.
 
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(Assuming this is a detach point have you given any thought to supplying "just" the pommel with the belt clip as an extra add-on so we could mix and match? Best of both worlds?

View attachment 1289341

yes this is a detach point. Doing an add-on is possible I guess but then you have vented and static pommel variants. The only difference being the holes tapped for the belt clip.

we could supply an add on with pre-tapped holes, however that is a pretty easy end user thing to do (presuming we specify drill and tap size) and include the clip and necessary screws.

Is there a strong preference one way or another?

what we are trying to avoid is combinatorial explosion of pommels (some tapped some not) which will elevate manufacturing costs and would not align to quantities of the entire hilt, leaving it up to us to guess how many to make.
 
Like Verity said I've got a chassis in the works and I hope y'all like it as much as we do!
Still a work in progress and it's going to slow down for a bit, but this is what I've got so far.
Please let me know what you think!

Specs:
Proffie V2,
18650 Keeppower
28mm bass speaker
1.3mm recharge port
high amp kill switch
2 spaces for 5 accent pixels based off trimmed WS2813
2 slots for pixels to illuminate the crystal chamber(one on top, one on the bottom)
Screenshot (24).png
Screenshot (26).png

My goal is to have the cage surrounding the crystal swivel to reveal it but I can't guarantee it atm so the CC might change.
Screenshot (27).png
 
Like Verity said I've got a chassis in the works and I hope y'all like it as much as we do!
Still a work in progress and it's going to slow down for a bit, but this is what I've got so far.
Please let me know what you think!

Specs:
Proffie V2,
18650 Keeppower
28mm bass speaker
1.3mm recharge port
high amp kill switch
2 spaces for 5 accent pixels based off trimmed WS2813
2 slots for pixels to illuminate the crystal chamber(one on top, one on the bottom)
View attachment 1289506View attachment 1289507
My goal is to have the cage surrounding the crystal swivel to reveal it but I can't guarantee it atm so the CC might change.
View attachment 1289508
Would you also be making a version for the Crystal Focus sound card?
 
The work on this is just outstanding. I haven't been this excited for a prop replica in a long time.
I am just completely floored at how amazing this project is.

Are your designs final? If we happen to spot something, should we speak up?
 
The work on this is just outstanding. I haven't been this excited for a prop replica in a long time.
I am just completely floored at how amazing this project is.

Are your designs final? If we happen to spot something, should we speak up?

not final! If you see something speak up!
 
Like Verity said I've got a chassis in the works and I hope y'all like it as much as we do!
Still a work in progress and it's going to slow down for a bit, but this is what I've got so far.
Please let me know what you think!

Specs:
Proffie V2,
18650 Keeppower
28mm bass speaker
1.3mm recharge port
high amp kill switch
2 spaces for 5 accent pixels based off trimmed WS2813
2 slots for pixels to illuminate the crystal chamber(one on top, one on the bottom)

My goal is to have the cage surrounding the crystal swivel to reveal it but I can't guarantee it atm so the CC might change.
Yes please to all the above. Awesome!
As far as letting you know what I think: My personal opinion would be about the cage. It feels a bit conflicting with the overall vibe of the hilt.
I think some or all of the following: less dramatic curve, less substance/bigger holes, different pattern or just completely optional (not using doesn't leave anything looking like it's missing a part) would be good.
The crystal supports borrowing from the emitter bottom supports is glorious.
Maybe the cage could mimic the grip inlays, like an alternating spade bit pattern somehow, (See incredibly crude sketch below) or I don't know.
Just not hexagons. That feels like Battlestar Galactica 1978.
IMG_20200423_031358.jpg


Cheers!
 
not final! If you see something speak up!

It's such a minor thing and it might be the angle or lens warping and not even an issue.
On the grips, they taper in at the corners as they angle up. To me it looks like yours might not taper in quite enough, causing the corners to appear a bit thicker than on the screen used. Again I might just be seeing thing, it just stood out as I was looking it over.

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It's such a minor thing and it might be the angle or lens warping and not even an issue.
On the grips, they taper in at the corners as they angle up. To me it looks like yours might not taper in quite enough, causing the corners to appear a bit thicker than on the screen used. Again I might just be seeing thing, it just stood out as I was looking it over.

View attachment 1289665View attachment 1289666

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ah! Yes. I see what you mean. So couple of things.

1.) I've already adjusted the slope of the sides of the fins since these photos as I did have the taper too shallow making the fins too wide.

(I have a photo I will be confirming to in order to finalize the fins.)

2.) there IS going to be a hair difference in the model here no matter what because the model will not have the "polish" to it that will round and soften edges that the machining will do. The model will have sharp edges for machining, but standard process for machining will add the softening. This would be similar to putting a .25 - .5 fillet on EVERY edge in the model. This is not done in the model because it confuses the machining specifications but will show up on the final product. The only fillets in the model are ones that have to be very specific and will be specified as part of the spec.

i can do a one off photo with the fillets added to demonstrate as I have time.

but yes. I DO know what you are saying and see it too. The flute/fin taper is something that I will still be confirming.
 
I will also point out that the grip fins are not uniform btw. They do have variation in the tapers. Cuz of course it is Star Wars. That asymmetry and non-uniform thing is not something we can feasibly reproduce. For one we don't have detail of each fin.

but let me demonstrate. This is crude and I will be doing a better overlay but it demonstrates the issue.

top fin taper and such line up. Fin in the center of the photo is thinner... in the model all fins are uniform:

101E6D55-7798-4E3D-B01B-E90C17DD8475.jpeg


Notice in one case the fins are spot on and in the other the fin is clearly wider....

now yes this is crude and lens distortion not accounted for. I will be doing a more correct overlay of this but... this is part of the challenge.

Bryan and I faced similar challenges with the pommel cubes on the Hero.
 
I will also point out that the grip fins are not uniform btw. They do have variation in the tapers. Cuz of course it is Star Wars. That asymmetry and non-uniform thing is not something we can feasibly reproduce. For one we don't have detail of each fin.

but let me demonstrate. This is crude and I will be doing a better overlay but it demonstrates the issue.

top fin taper and such line up. Fin in the center of the photo is thinner... in the model all fins are uniform:

View attachment 1289695

Notice in one case the fins are spot on and in the other the fin is clearly wider....

now yes this is crude and lens distortion not accounted for. I will be doing a more correct overlay of this but... this is part of the challenge.

Bryan and I faced similar challenges with the pommel cubes on the Hero.

awesome. pure awesome. Yeah you can tell they just ran the parts over a buffer wheel.
 
Also, we are checking with the factory on the gold but everyone on the team is on board with doing a subset of exclusive, serial numbered gold ones.

how this will work:

main run will be copper sleeves over the main hilt parts (I am currently adjusting assembly to suit this). This will be natural actual copper and not plated.

The limited gold set will have the same assembly and parts however the copper will be gold plated (presuming the factory confirms they can do it). This will be a limited number and serial numbered.

please do not weigh in asking for one or the other; I will personally approach each person on the signup list to determine which is desired or if both are desired.

gold ones would be limited to one per person to ensure this remains exclusive and special.
 
I will also point out that the grip fins are not uniform btw. They do have variation in the tapers. Cuz of course it is Star Wars. That asymmetry and non-uniform thing is not something we can feasibly reproduce. For one we don't have detail of each fin.

but let me demonstrate. This is crude and I will be doing a better overlay but it demonstrates the issue.

top fin taper and such line up. Fin in the center of the photo is thinner... in the model all fins are uniform:

View attachment 1289695

Notice in one case the fins are spot on and in the other the fin is clearly wider....

now yes this is crude and lens distortion not accounted for. I will be doing a more correct overlay of this but... this is part of the challenge.

Bryan and I faced similar challenges with the pommel cubes on the Hero.

Looking at the side-by-side comparison above just now, I might have noticed something. I don't have the ability to sketch this, so I will try to describe it... Pay attention to the end of each copper channel below each grip fin, and the end of the (same) copper piece between each grip fin and each mother of pearl inlay, and the end of each mother of pearl inlay. In the photo, all of those ends seem to be more recessed into the round silver 'body' of the saber just in front of those ends. In the drawing they stick up just a little higher. You can really see it if you focus on the height of each copper channel below each grip fin. I hope that description makes sense.
 
Looking at the side-by-side comparison above just now, I might have noticed something. I don't have the ability to sketch this, so I will try to describe it... Pay attention to the end of each copper channel below each grip fin, and the end of the (same) copper piece between each grip fin and each mother of pearl inlay, and the end of each mother of pearl inlay. In the photo, all of those ends seem to be more recessed into the round silver 'body' of the saber just in front of those ends. In the drawing they stick up just a little higher. You can really see it if you focus on the height of each copper channel below each grip fin. I hope that description makes sense.

no it makes perfect sense. Unfortunately due to minimum thickness requirements for machining I don't think we can do that.

In the original prop one of two things is happening:

1.) the copper grip fin base was machined below minimum thickness constraints and the copper there is EXTREMELY thin and delicate.

2.) the central grip is ACTUALLY copper and book ended by silver rings.

it's not really feasible on ours to do either of those things. #1 makes the fin track bases too thin and delicate and #2 would be subject to threading copper and become very weak due to thread galling because this is an impact stress point and also a joint that would be commonly unscrewed for reveals.

i might be able to correct for SOME of that but I doubt that particular feature can be 100% accurate without it being a static solid chunk of copper.
 
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