Limited Run SIGN UP CLOSED. PRODUCTION BEGINNING! Dewy and Anakin Starkiller's Obi-wan Episode 1 saber sign up!

[DRambo87]

Thank you! I did actually try to replicate the lines and machining marks! It's amazing how much of a difference that made. I do need to source an original fender washer and reattempt that part of the hilt. I can do better there with getting the sanding lines going in the right direction and replicating the hook-shaped gap at the top of the threaded rod.

Yes I found that the ultra fine scotch brite puts a nice brushed finish on it, which makes a nice base for polishing. I didn't go overboard on the polishing either--I tried to keep it light and then just let the metal wear in naturally from handling.

It's absolutely perfect
I've been doing that scotch Brite polishing for a bit on a few Obi sabers KRs mostly and got a friendly "scolding" on one of the Facebook pages because the lines were "uneven" but they were not aware that I was emulating the original prop. SO, once again.. from one perfectionist to another, very well done and impressive. the pics and video are just as well done

 

[Excelsior]

It's absolutely perfect
I've been doing that scotch Brite polishing for a bit on a few Obi sabers KRs mostly and got a friendly "scolding" on one of the Facebook pages because the lines were "uneven" but they were not aware that I was emulating the original prop. SO, once again.. from one perfectionist to another, very well done and impressive. the pics and video are just as well done

Ah yes, Facebook... I've heard stories. The RPF is where it's at!

Thanks again man!

 

[Saberhoarder]

Really appreciate the work that went into this hilt.

 

[Dewy]

Really appreciate the work that went into this hilt.

Looks great! Don’t forget to switch out the emitter fender washer and threaded rod for the versions without chamfers!

 

[Saberhoarder]

Looks great! Don’t forget to switch out the emitter fender washer and threaded rod for the versions without chamfers!

Thanks just did that. Not sure why I swapped it again at some point. Didn't even notice at first

 

[Twinsen]

Thanks just did that. Not sure why I swapped it again at some point. Didn't even notice at first

Did you sand/brush the pommel cubes?

 

[Saberhoarder]

Did you sand/brush the pommel cubes?

Yeah I did. Still not 100% done. Need to go over the sides a 2nd time. WIll do that this weekend.

 

[Twinsen]

Okay so I've found a solution for those of you who, like me, don't want to glue the LEDs inside the bezels to leave their saber fully (and easily) dismantable. And as a bonus it allows you to orient the LEDs any which way you want (if you wish to clock the electronic components embedded inside the clear acrylic a certain way, you maniac).

The idea is simple : using a small spring to push the LED up inside the bezel. But finding the right kind of spring took me some time.

I've been expertimenting and taking apart ball point pens and clothespins, but I ended up finding the perfect fit on Amazon.

They are stainless steel micro-springs with an OD of 5mm, a wire diameter of 0.4mm and length of 10mm. They took forever to come from China but they finally showed up and they are perfect. As a side note, you can also get 6mm OD springs which is almost exactly what the ID of the bezels is, but they don't fit (I tried).

Installation is a breeze, you just need to cut the solder legs of the LEDs flush, drop the LED inside the bezel, put the spring on top and carefully screw the whole assembly on the hilt.

The spring will rest against the aluminum emitter core, and its tension will push the LED out, nesting it nicely in place. It also makes the LEDs "springy" which is kind of cool. That also means you can rotate the LED inside the bezel simply by pushing on it slightly and twisting.

I chose those springs specifically because aside from the OD of the spring itself (which is imposed by the ID of the bezel), I picked a length of 10mm and a wire diameter of 0.4mm to get the tension of the spring "just right".

If the spring was too short the LED would drop down and it wouldn't work. If the spring was too long, it would twist and bend all over the place, making installation difficult. Same thing for thickness : you could probably get away with a thinner spring but a thicker one would be very difficult to compress, again making installation difficult or impossible.

Obviously you could just use a drop of E6000 inside the bezel instead... But I've always liked mechanically connecting parts rather than gluing them together whenever possible. And I find it looks and feels more professional. Although I do realize the prop makers certainly didn't do it this way in 1998!

Just thought I'd share.

Here is the link for those interested :

Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

 

[Foe Hammer]

I did the exact same thing with my LEDs on my kit when I received it. Thumbs up!

 

[Twinsen]

And I thought I was being clever !

 

[Saberhoarder]

Okay so I've found a solution for those of you who, like me, don't want to glue the LEDs inside the bezels to leave their saber fully (and easily) dismantable. And as a bonus it allows you to orient the LEDs any which way you want (if you wish to clock the electronic components embedded inside the clear acrylic a certain way, you maniac).

The idea is simple : using a small spring to push the LED up inside the bezel. But finding the right kind of spring took me some time.

I've been expertimenting and taking apart ball point pens and clothespins, but I ended up finding the perfect fit on Amazon.

They are stainless steel micro-springs with an OD of 5mm, a wire diameter of 0.4mm and length of 10mm. They took forever to come from China but they finally showed up and they are perfect. As a side note, you can also get 6mm OD springs which is almost exactly what the ID of the bezels is, but they don't fit (I tried).

Installation is a breeze, you just need to cut the solder legs of the LEDs flush, drop the LED inside the bezel, put the spring on top and carefully screw the whole assembly on the hilt.

The spring will rest against the aluminum emitter core, and its tension will push the LED out, nesting it nicely in place. It also makes the LEDs "springy" which is kind of cool. That also means you can rotate the LED inside the bezel simply by pushing on it slightly and twisting.

I chose those springs specifically because aside from the OD of the spring itself (which is imposed by the ID of the bezel), I picked a length of 10mm and a wire diameter of 0.4mm to get the tension of the spring "just right".

If the spring was too short the LED would drop down and it wouldn't work. If the spring was too long, it would twist and bend all over the place, making installation difficult. Same thing for thickness : you could probably get away with a thinner spring but a thicker one would be very difficult to compress, again making installation difficult or impossible.

Obviously you could just use a drop of E6000 inside the bezel instead... But I've always liked mechanically connecting parts rather than gluing them together whenever possible. And I find it looks and feels more professional. Although I do realize the prop makers certainly didn't do it this way in 1998!

Just thought I'd share.

Here is the link for those interested :

Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

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View attachment 1727515

Phenomenal, did you sand the leds?

 

[Foe Hammer]

I knew going in that I didn't want to glue them in. Like you I prefer a mechanical means of fastening them but maintain the ability to orient the diodes in any direction.

 

[Twinsen]

I did,

Phenomenal, did you sand the leds?

I did, with 800 grit wet sandpaper and I finished it off with a dry melamine sponge.

 

[amnesia0287]

Any one crazy enough to give up their slot/sell theirs yet .

I just have to say I’m amazed by the amount of detail you guys go in after you get the replica lol. I’m just too ocd, unless I had a spare, I would be too scared to even try and refinish/paint/etc.

I was intending to get a rescuer as an excuse to get an airbrush (need one for gunpla anyway) and give it a shot, but they sold out right before I got cash. So now I guess I’m waiting for AK to release something new. Or is there anyone else who does the raw kits for hilts like that?

I must learn your ways.

 

[GhostOfThrawn]

E6000 was sold out from the local jewelry store so I decided to go without glue.

Here is what I did:



I cut the legs of the leds just above those flat markers


Used pliers to slightly bend tips of the flat surface in the legs



Now they are pressured fitted to the place with no play when pushed.

 

[Dewy]

E6000 was sold out from the local jewelry store so I decided to go without glue.

Here is what I did:

View attachment 1730211

I cut the legs of the leds just above those flat markers

View attachment 1730212
Used pliers to slightly bend tips of the flat surface in the legs

View attachment 1730213

Now they are pressured fitted to the place with no play when pushed.

View attachment 1730214

I just used a ball of the paper that some of the parts come wrapped in and crammed it in behind the LED.

 

[Anakin Starkiller]

Finished my kit (for now).

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Made the following mods:
-painted with Rustoleum primer, Rustoleum 2X Ultra Matte Black and Rustoleum 2X Flat Black
-accurate weathering, including scotch-brite finish with rougher brushed marks from sandpaper; sanding the LED bezels, brass barb; simulated paint chips on the emitter core, etc.
-sanded edges of emitter "windows"
-lathed in a groove for the o-ring to sit down into to create the correct gap (see comparison pic)
-hand-filed the lower grip cut-in for a more accurate look
-re-profiled the pommel on my lathe to my own tastes
-used some older clear 5mm LEDs I had on hand

Construction-wise, I used masking tape within the hilt to tighten things up. I used blue loctite in a few spots, as well as superglue and E6000. I installed the pommel cubes by putting a dab of E6000 in each of the holes, then pressed them straight into place over each screw. I also used E6000 to hold the pommel onto the inner aluminum core more securely. For the overall finish of the hilt I used ultra fine scotchbrite, mildly polished it, then allowed it to weather in slightly from handling. There are other things I did but I don't need to get into every single detail (unless someone is curious).

Many thanks to Drew and Dan for your work in bringing us this saber!

Full-res photo album available here:
EXS Starkiller Obi TPM Lightsaber Build

Video overview of the build available here:
Starkiller Obi TPM Lightsaber Review

I don't know how I missed these photos. But they are fantastic. Thanks so much for doing this. I really appreciate the comparisons.

 

[Excelsior]

I don't know how I missed these photos. But they are fantastic. Thanks so much for doing this. I really appreciate the comparisons.

No problem. Thanks to you and Drew for making the kit!

 

[velvetthunder]

Anyone have a ball park time frame for when the qui gon saber will have an interest thread or sign up sheet? Too excited

 

[DRambo87]

Anyone have a ball park time frame for when the qui gon saber will have an interest thread or sign up sheet? Too excited

They're doing some re-scaling modeling and discussing materials I'm assuming with the shop. Keep checking the Dewy Anakin Starkiller accurate Qui Gon thread for updates