Done / Completed Screen accurate LS ROTJ Hero PCB reveal boards

Successfully installed the board in my Starkiller hero. Took a lot of shaving down of the control box canoe (as well as the board itself), but the operation is a success. Just need to install the tri-ring, now. Thanks, Dave!View attachment 1366767
That's awesome! Did you manage to keep the canoe in one piece? That's good going. I assumed the T-Profiles would need to be removed entirely. Well done! :)
 
That's awesome! Did you manage to keep the canoe in one piece? That's good going. I assumed the T-Profiles would need to be removed entirely. Well done! :)

Yes, the canoe is intact. It was just a matter of carefully Dremeling the sides of the canoe down to create the proper platform for the board, and also shaving down the sides of the board a bit (which actually caused a component or two to pop off and feed the carpet monsters). As well as constant checking and test-fitting until the upper board could slide open and closed freely. Tricky work, but it was successful.
 
Yes, the canoe is intact. It was just a matter of carefully Dremeling the sides of the canoe down to create the proper platform for the board, and also shaving down the sides of the board a bit (which actually caused a component or two to pop off and feed the carpet monsters). As well as constant checking and test-fitting until the upper board could slide open and closed freely. Tricky work, but it was successful.
Wonderful. Do you have any in process/before-after photos of how much trimming was needed?
 
Wonderful. Do you have any in process/before-after photos of how much trimming was needed?

Unfortunately not. Although I suppose I could disassemble the control box to take an “after” pic.

The rule of thumb I used was that about twice the thickness of the PCB (spitballing off the top of my head, around 3-4mm or so) needed to be removed.

The final step will be installing functional electronics for the blinking arrows. I’ve seen a schematic or two around here. I’m thinking of a setup that allows for an on/off switch to start one arrow blinking, then a momentary switch to swap to the other color.



Meanwhile, I installed Dave’s new tri-ring. I went for a cheaper and more ghetto solution, as opposed to Halliwax’s 3D-printed spacer—a dab of E6000 on opposing sides of each cut end of the ring. After letting the blobs dry and installing the ring, the resulting friction fit allows the ring to to posed at various angles, like the original.

I also gave it a coat of Barricade (used for gun maintenance, which I had leftover from my Denix Solo blaster build) to prevent rusting. I wanted the darker color of the raw steel, but also a slightly more ideal, non-rusted look.

F5DB2896-F000-43F6-B38E-289C2245F7AC.jpeg
 
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Unfortunately not. Although I suppose I could disassemble the control box to take an “after” pic.

The rule of thumb I used was that about twice the thickness of the PCB (spitballing off the top of my head, around 3-4mm or so) needed to be removed.

The final step will be installing functional electronics for the blinking arrows. I’ve seen a schematic or two around here. I’m thinking of a setup that allows for an on/off switch to start one arrow blinking, then a momentary switch to swap to the other color.



Meanwhile, I installed Dave’s new tri-ring. I went for a cheaper and more ghetto solution, as opposed to Halliwax’s 3D-printed spacer—a dab of E6000 on opposing sides of each cut end of the ring. After letting the blobs dry and installing the ring, the resulting friction fit allows the ring to to posed at various angles, like the original.

I also gave it a coat of Barricade (used for gun maintenance, which I had leftover from my Denix Solo blaster build) to prevent rusting. I wanted the darker color of the raw steel, but also a slightly more ideal, non-rusted look.

View attachment 1366981
3C0BD94C-4016-4F19-A452-8DBC69851F06.jpeg

This is mine. Easiest possible setup with discoverable vintage components.
low voltage battery, SPST, SPDT, and fast blinking green/red LEDs... depending on current tolerances no resistor was required.
Also similar to the likely actual positioning using a Boba Fett style rangefinder switch and the SPST switch (as is still visible up in front of the IC in certain Hero exhibit photos). I think the red wire was probably functional between the components and was let out on top
 
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Unfortunately not. Although I suppose I could disassemble the control box to take an “after” pic.

The rule of thumb I used was that about twice the thickness of the PCB (spitballing off the top of my head, around 3-4mm or so) needed to be removed.

The final step will be installing functional electronics for the blinking arrows. I’ve seen a schematic or two around here. I’m thinking of a setup that allows for an on/off switch to start one arrow blinking, then a momentary switch to swap to the other color.



Meanwhile, I installed Dave’s new tri-ring. I went for a cheaper and more ghetto solution, as opposed to Halliwax’s 3D-printed spacer—a dab of E6000 on opposing sides of each cut end of the ring. After letting the blobs dry and installing the ring, the resulting friction fit allows the ring to to posed at various angles, like the original.

I also gave it a coat of Barricade (used for gun maintenance, which I had leftover from my Denix Solo blaster build) to prevent rusting. I wanted the darker color of the raw steel, but also a slightly more ideal, non-rusted look.

View attachment 1366981
Thanks for the details. Yeah, no need to disassemble anything just for a photo. Nice work again.
 
I would love to get 3 Dave. I am lucky to get in on your FIRST run of static ISYHCANL; will this work on that also? Thanks!!
 
I would love to get 3 Dave. I am lucky to get in on your FIRST run of static ISYHCANL; will this work on that also? Thanks!!
Thanks Dan. I'll send you a DM. It's not going to work with the ISYHCANL I'm afraid. I'll explain in the DM. Cheers.
 
Hi, here's the same question. Do you still have any available? Also, any idea if this could be modified to fit the control box of the Korbanth LS6? Thanks.
 
Hi, here's the same question. Do you still have any available? Also, any idea if this could be modified to fit the control box of the Korbanth LS6? Thanks.
Hi there.

I do have a few left, yes. I actually have one spare that's made up and ready to send out.

In answer to your question though, I think you're going to struggle getting one in to an LS6 without a fair bit of modification to the control box (and possibly loosing some functionality?) I believe there's a central threaded tube that holds the rail piece on? That might need to be modified/shortened? The actual rail piece may need to be replaced with separate rails either side of the box too. As I understand it, the LS6 has a solid piece that sits over the internals. Not saying it isn't possible. Just that there could be a bit of work involved, and I can't guarantee that the working components of the box won't need modifying/replacing too.

Could be an interesting project for you though?

Hope that helps anyway.

Cheers,

Dave
 
Ok thanks for that answer. I would imagine that would be a similar challenge to make it fit my Saberforge Prodigal Son, as I can see there's a lot in the way, such as the kill key at one end of the control box, and the activation button is under at the other end. No room.
 
Ok thanks for that answer. I would imagine that would be a similar challenge to make it fit my Saberforge Prodigal Son, as I can see there's a lot in the way, such as the kill key at one end of the control box, and the activation button is under at the other end. No room.
I think so unfortunately. It wasn't really designed to fit functioning FX hilts. They're obviously going to make use of any internal space for their switches/lights/etc, which doesn't leave a lot of room for a reveal.
 
I'll take one if they're still available. I'd like to see how easily it will fit in a Nicksdad Luke ROTJ that I have.
 

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