Unlimited Run Screen accurate LS ROTJ Hero PCB reveal boards

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DaveP

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Successfully installed the board in my Starkiller hero. Took a lot of shaving down of the control box canoe (as well as the board itself), but the operation is a success. Just need to install the tri-ring, now. Thanks, Dave! View attachment 1366767
That's awesome! Did you manage to keep the canoe in one piece? That's good going. I assumed the T-Profiles would need to be removed entirely. Well done! :)
 

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Gregatron

Sr Member
That's awesome! Did you manage to keep the canoe in one piece? That's good going. I assumed the T-Profiles would need to be removed entirely. Well done! :)

Yes, the canoe is intact. It was just a matter of carefully Dremeling the sides of the canoe down to create the proper platform for the board, and also shaving down the sides of the board a bit (which actually caused a component or two to pop off and feed the carpet monsters). As well as constant checking and test-fitting until the upper board could slide open and closed freely. Tricky work, but it was successful.
 

zjunlimited

Well-Known Member
Yes, the canoe is intact. It was just a matter of carefully Dremeling the sides of the canoe down to create the proper platform for the board, and also shaving down the sides of the board a bit (which actually caused a component or two to pop off and feed the carpet monsters). As well as constant checking and test-fitting until the upper board could slide open and closed freely. Tricky work, but it was successful.
Wonderful. Do you have any in process/before-after photos of how much trimming was needed?
 

Gregatron

Sr Member
Wonderful. Do you have any in process/before-after photos of how much trimming was needed?

Unfortunately not. Although I suppose I could disassemble the control box to take an “after” pic.

The rule of thumb I used was that about twice the thickness of the PCB (spitballing off the top of my head, around 3-4mm or so) needed to be removed.

The final step will be installing functional electronics for the blinking arrows. I’ve seen a schematic or two around here. I’m thinking of a setup that allows for an on/off switch to start one arrow blinking, then a momentary switch to swap to the other color.



Meanwhile, I installed Dave’s new tri-ring. I went for a cheaper and more ghetto solution, as opposed to Halliwax’s 3D-printed spacer—a dab of E6000 on opposing sides of each cut end of the ring. After letting the blobs dry and installing the ring, the resulting friction fit allows the ring to to posed at various angles, like the original.

I also gave it a coat of Barricade (used for gun maintenance, which I had leftover from my Denix Solo blaster build) to prevent rusting. I wanted the darker color of the raw steel, but also a slightly more ideal, non-rusted look.

F5DB2896-F000-43F6-B38E-289C2245F7AC.jpeg
 
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BRRogers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Unfortunately not. Although I suppose I could disassemble the control box to take an “after” pic.

The rule of thumb I used was that about twice the thickness of the PCB (spitballing off the top of my head, around 3-4mm or so) needed to be removed.

The final step will be installing functional electronics for the blinking arrows. I’ve seen a schematic or two around here. I’m thinking of a setup that allows for an on/off switch to start one arrow blinking, then a momentary switch to swap to the other color.



Meanwhile, I installed Dave’s new tri-ring. I went for a cheaper and more ghetto solution, as opposed to Halliwax’s 3D-printed spacer—a dab of E6000 on opposing sides of each cut end of the ring. After letting the blobs dry and installing the ring, the resulting friction fit allows the ring to to posed at various angles, like the original.

I also gave it a coat of Barricade (used for gun maintenance, which I had leftover from my Denix Solo blaster build) to prevent rusting. I wanted the darker color of the raw steel, but also a slightly more ideal, non-rusted look.

View attachment 1366981
3C0BD94C-4016-4F19-A452-8DBC69851F06.jpeg

This is mine. Easiest possible setup with discoverable vintage components.
low voltage battery, SPST, SPDT, and fast blinking green/red LEDs... depending on current tolerances no resistor was required.
Also similar to the likely actual positioning using a Boba Fett style rangefinder switch and the SPST switch (as is still visible up in front of the IC in certain Hero exhibit photos). I think the red wire was probably functional between the components and was let out on top
 
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zjunlimited

Well-Known Member
Unfortunately not. Although I suppose I could disassemble the control box to take an “after” pic.

The rule of thumb I used was that about twice the thickness of the PCB (spitballing off the top of my head, around 3-4mm or so) needed to be removed.

The final step will be installing functional electronics for the blinking arrows. I’ve seen a schematic or two around here. I’m thinking of a setup that allows for an on/off switch to start one arrow blinking, then a momentary switch to swap to the other color.



Meanwhile, I installed Dave’s new tri-ring. I went for a cheaper and more ghetto solution, as opposed to Halliwax’s 3D-printed spacer—a dab of E6000 on opposing sides of each cut end of the ring. After letting the blobs dry and installing the ring, the resulting friction fit allows the ring to to posed at various angles, like the original.

I also gave it a coat of Barricade (used for gun maintenance, which I had leftover from my Denix Solo blaster build) to prevent rusting. I wanted the darker color of the raw steel, but also a slightly more ideal, non-rusted look.

View attachment 1366981
Thanks for the details. Yeah, no need to disassemble anything just for a photo. Nice work again.
 

ventuoguy

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I would love to get 3 Dave. I am lucky to get in on your FIRST run of static ISYHCANL; will this work on that also? Thanks!!
 

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DaveP

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I would love to get 3 Dave. I am lucky to get in on your FIRST run of static ISYHCANL; will this work on that also? Thanks!!
Thanks Dan. I'll send you a DM. It's not going to work with the ISYHCANL I'm afraid. I'll explain in the DM. Cheers.
 

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