New model for OWK three holes saber... (New pics on pg 13. 11-17-2024)

Rivets arrived!

Please note that they do NOT fit in the brass knob as-is. Either the brass part's hole will have to be enlarged, or the diameter of the rivet reduced.

On a related note, I also have to decide whether or not to remove some or all of the purple anodizing, since I'm not seeing much--if any--in the AOTC reference images.
 
Just got this in today and pieced it together rather quickly. It's such a gorgeous saber. Matches the Propstore images.

I did find these images off Heritage and noticed that the orientation of the buttons are different on this one.

SaltShaker_OBW_1.jpg SaltShaker_OBW_2.jpg SaltShaker_OBW_3.jpg
 
Just got this in today and pieced it together rather quickly. It's such a gorgeous saber. Matches the Propstore images.

I did find these images off Heritage and noticed that the orientation of the buttons are different on this one.

View attachment 1891538 View attachment 1891539 View attachment 1891540

There are some notable variances in the different versions of the prop. I also noticed that the replica has idealized positioning of the emitter endcap, so that one of the holes is in line with one of the LED bezels.

Could be worse, though. Remember that stunt casting with the Covertec knob on the upper half of the saber, instead of the lower?
 
I chucked one of the purple rivets in a drill, and carefully ran the bottom edge against a file to shave down the diameter. After that, I gave it a VERY light buffing with superfine steel wool to remove some of the purple anodizing.

The result looks pretty spot-on compared to the reference. That being said, if better images are found, I still have a few spare purple rivets to swap it out with, if necessary. Still, the result of my mods makes me think the real prop’s anodizing had somewhat worn off, by the time of AOTC.

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Is it possible to ask for help? The LED bezel on the hilt is stuck and seems to be jammed. I applied some lubricant to it yet it refuses to move at all.

Is it cross threaded and damaged forever?
 

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Not necessarily. The parts all screw in when you do them a little at a time, and not fully screw in one before the other. A few options to try to turn it. Put on a rubber glove, press down and twist. I’ve seen tape used, and even a Q-tip inserted into the threaded collar to gain traction. I’ve used small modeling needle nose pliers, inserted into the middle of the sleeve and then opened and twisted, to just get a little movement.
 
Not necessarily. The parts all screw in when you do them a little at a time, and not fully screw in one before the other. A few options to try to turn it. Put on a rubber glove, press down and twist. I’ve seen tape used, and even a Q-tip inserted into the threaded collar to gain traction. I’ve used small modeling needle nose pliers, inserted into the middle of the sleeve and then opened and twisted, to just get a little movement.
Thank you. I will do this. Then can LED bezel be removed too? I don't wish to think it's cross threaded.
 
So, I did use Q tip and yet it's completely stuck and does not move at all. I don't think there's any solution now... The bezel and red button threading sleeve are stuck as if they're glued on.(I definitely did not glued it.)
 
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You could try putting it in a freezer for a while. The cold air should cause the metal to contract and loosen up. The key is getting the threaded collar out.
 
You could try putting it in a freezer for a while. The cold air should cause the metal to contract and loosen up. The key is getting the threaded collar out.
Thank you again for the another solutions. I will put the hilt in the freezer so that both Bezel and Threaded collar to loose out. But I am worried if it's cross threaded and thus unable to salvage.

Edit: I put it and got it out of freezer, but the bezel and collar are still stuck. I don't know what to do...
 
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Must I give up? Despite trying out all the solutions people have kindly provided, both single bezel and collar are still stuck, never to loose. It's over now..
 
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