NASA ACES suit disconnects

Here's some photo of the machining of the left hand locking ring and the internal features of the left cuff ring.

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Setup for machining the cuff ring.

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The left cuff ring is now complete. The left locking ring had to go the the rotary axis for the radial details to be machined.

The finished cuff ring.

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Both pieces locked together.

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Very impressive. Sorry if this was already discussed, but is this piece actually functional enough that it might work in a real suit?
It functions in that you can connect and disconnect them and the mechanical features function accurately. They don't seal and hold pressure. I have no idea how they hold pressure. If anyone knows how that works i would be eager to find out. They would leak at the bearing ring area.
 
I know that the Artists on the RPF have done, in the past, wonderful and complicated machine work...but to go "Seal & Pressure Hold" is another step toward insanity o_O o_O Your workmanship is top notch (y)(y):cool::cool::notworthy::notworthy:
 
Here's some photo of the machining of the left hand locking ring and the internal features of the left cuff ring.

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Setup for machining the cuff ring.

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The left cuff ring is now complete. The left locking ring had to go the the rotary axis for the radial details to be machined.

The finished cuff ring.

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Both pieces locked together.

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Awesome work Alex!!!
 
Started on the Bearing Plates these keep the ball bearing in position and a designed to allow the the rings to rotated smooth, Its a pretty small part. I decided to make a few of them while I was at it easier than setting up again. Should have enough for my test set and a few sets for those who are interested, when I come to do a run of them.

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Finished machining the left hand locking ring. The radial features, for the tabs, the bearing plate and engraving. Then machined the final internal diameter. Having finished this part that concludes the machining of the the ring pieces, leaving only the locking tabs and bearing plates to finish.

Setup for the final op, finish the final internal diameter, and the fixture is radial op is on the rotary axis.

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The finished part.

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Finished machining the left hand locking ring. The radial features, for the tabs, the bearing plate and engraving. Then machined the final internal diameter. Having finished this part that concludes the machining of the the ring pieces, leaving only the locking tabs and bearing plates to finish.

Setup for the final op, finish the final internal diameter, and the fixture is radial op is on the rotary axis.

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The finished part.

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Wonderful Alex
 
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Just put the tab section on the locking tabs.
They are a little tighter than is was expecting, decided to make the fit slightly loser. This should help them to lock when the springs are installed.
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Also Machined the back of the bearing cover. These were a little tricky I had one fly out the the jaws, causing some damage to the jaws, as you can see in the photo on the left. Not a major disaster just cut another pocket to hold the parts. Haven't tested these with ball bearing in yet, however it lines up well with internal ways so should all run smoothly.

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I've done a few small bits of work.

I drilled 1.6mm holes in the locking tabs. One is blind for a set screw inserted from the inside of the rings, when finally assembled, this allows the spring mechanism to function. The other hole is through, I don't know what this hole does, if anyone knows please let me know.

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I drill the holes on the CNC and then tap the one hole manually. I always find tapping tricky, particularly small diameter tap such as M2.
I haven't tap all of these yet but here's a test part, using a scrap locking tab. The critical dimension here is the stick out of the set screw, it has to be less than 2mm, thankfully its 1.85mm giving enough clearance in the slot.

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The correct M2 button head blots arrived so I swapped my cap head for the correct bolts.

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I'm getting ready to send the first set to anodising, the locking tabs are gold.
What colour do you think the other parts are? From reference photos, the colour is possible a deep blue or maybe gray. Suggestion or insights welcome. Additionally there seems to be a different between training sets and flight sets, again any insights welcome. Controlling colour with anodising is difficult so a general colour is likely the best we can do.
 
I'm getting ready to send the first set to anodising, the locking tabs are gold.
What colour do you think the other parts are? From reference photos, the colour is possible a deep blue or maybe gray. Suggestion or insights welcome. Additionally there seems to be a different between training sets and flight sets, again any insights welcome. Controlling colour with anodising is difficult so a general colour is likely the best we can do.
Great news.
Well the colour might be a good question for Imgill. I would look on a high res photos of the astronauts.
Also look up the #3 post from Adam Savage, there are good photos
 
Great news.
Well the colour might be a good question for Imgill. I would look on a high res photos of the astronauts.
Also look up the #3 post from Adam Savage, there are good photos
Thanks for the photo recommendations, I've got a little while to decide on the colour it won't be till after new year now. I'll also take the reference photos to the anodiser when I take the parts, should help to achieve the best result possible.
 
Alex, do you plan on polishing the parts before anodising?
I have limited knowledge about anodising, will the machine marks show in the final surface?
 
Alex, do you plan on polishing the parts before anodising?
I have limited knowledge about anodising, will the machine marks show in the final surface?
I have been doing some research on different types of anodising. Some types of anodising can produce a glossier finish, closer to what is in the reference photos. This also new to me, normally we just get matte black or clear anodising. I will get back to you when I've found out more info.

Polishing is certainly an option, but haven't yet decided.

Hopefully their won't be any obvious machine marks.
 
I have been doing some research on different types of anodising. Some types of anodising can produce a glossier finish, closer to what is in the reference photos. This also new to me, normally we just get matte black or clear anodising. I will get back to you when I've found out more info.

Polishing is certainly an option, but haven't yet decided.

Hopefully their won't be any obvious machine marks.
Absolutely polish before anodizing. The anodizing will not polish, so if you want the pieces to look shiny I would polish. The buttons will likely want to be matte.
 

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