NASA ACES suit disconnects

Received the screws today. Now I really get the idea how small things will get :eek:
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I think your side by side is a bit off. The area indicated as the top of the tab is actually the top of the radius, the tab ends higher.
I keep recommending larger radii, because I have handled real pieces and have made the same mistake, of making edges to sharp. I also have a original blueprint which indicates the required radius on the ring edges, and that is 1/32". The lock tabs are clearly more rounded than the rings.

So have done some editing on the locking tab. Made it little bit taller, changed the radii.
I think that for a replica it is close enough :D
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I think that for a replica it is close enough :D
Indeed!! Your work's terrific, I'ld say you're already moving beyond 90%+ accurate range, and I know Imgill's been pushing you hard to reach 100% :lol: but you guys could have settled a while ago and I'm sure it would have already been the most accurate replica up to date! :D The skills and knowledge demonstrated in this thread alone make it worth the watch! Looking forward to the next steps (y)
 
Indeed!! Your work's terrific, I'ld say you're already moving beyond 90%+ accurate range, and I know Imgill's been pushing you hard to reach 100% :lol: but you guys could have settled a while ago and I'm sure it would have already been the most accurate replica up to date! :D The skills and knowledge demonstrated in this thread alone make it worth the watch! Looking forward to the next steps (y)

:) Thank you Potroclo.
Well, it will never be 100% accurate due to the lack of reference material.
Making something purely from photos is quite difficult.
Imgill has a lot of skill and knowledge and I really appreciate his help.
 
Thanks . After nearly 40 years of making specifically art directed things for film or museums, you learn to become sensitive to all of the details.
I refer to it as "Death by one percents".
Often when people want to make something in a particular style, (Star Trek, Star Wars, Art Deco, Victorian, 16th century.....) they compromise on a detail here or there, or decide to mix styles.
But, every time you change something, or compromise a detail, you get a few percent away from the original item or style you are trying to emulate. Before you know it, you've "1 percent-ed" yourself to something that is only 50% correct, and it no longer looks like the item or style you intended. While you may not see those changes as anything significant, when a new person looks at it, who has no involvement with the how or why you changed things, they see all of those "1 percents" added up, all at once, and to them, if they know what they are looking at, it's only 50% correct.
So, while it's not about being the exact size, to the mm, it is about how the details work together in proportions, scale and style.
 
Thanks . After nearly 40 years of making specifically art directed things for film or museums, you learn to become sensitive to all of the details.
I refer to it as "Death by one percents".
Often when people want to make something in a particular style, (Star Trek, Star Wars, Art Deco, Victorian, 16th century.....) they compromise on a detail here or there, or decide to mix styles.
But, every time you change something, or compromise a detail, you get a few percent away from the original item or style you are trying to emulate. Before you know it, you've "1 percent-ed" yourself to something that is only 50% correct, and it no longer looks like the item or style you intended. While you may not see those changes as anything significant, when a new person looks at it, who has no involvement with the how or why you changed things, they see all of those "1 percents" added up, all at once, and to them, if they know what they are looking at, it's only 50% correct.
So, while it's not about being the exact size, to the mm, it is about how the details work together in proportions, scale and style.

I totally get that. Always when I do any project, I want it to be perfect, but it is really hard without a good reference material.
I often do projects like these disconnects, only from photos (like the Arc reactor from IM here on TheRPF).
Imgill is right, it is not about a spot on dimensions, but about the proportions and scale.
 
So, here are some shots taken with my phone, nothing fancy :)
Bare in mind, it's still an FDM print, so details are not crisp, but better than I expected.
Bearing works, little noisy but works. Locking tabs springs works really nicely (with a piece of toothpick as a pin :lol:)
I am really surprised with this prototype. I didn't expect everything to work.
I have some problems with the bearing feeder cover (but I knew that), I will make another post, that explains the third screw in the cover.

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Video isn't working for me but the initial prints are promising! Would be cool to see it printed on an SLA printer. Great work so far!
 

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