NASA ACES suit disconnects

Some changes on the locking tab groove. But I think that the spring will move around alot :unsure:
NEW9.jpg NEW10.jpg

Overall view
NEW11.jpg
 
Screw head is too big. It needs to be closer in diameter to the spring, otherwise the slot is too wide and spring will "snake" side to side.

That's exactly what I'm afraid of. Look few posts up.
I think this screw is better choice
901405_1.jpg
 
I would look at using a press-fit (or adhered) stainless steel pin instead of a threaded screw.
First, the part your trying to put the screw into isn't very thick, and it will be very hard to drill and tap that hole.
 
I would look at using a press-fit (or adhered) stainless steel pin instead of a threaded screw.
First, the part your trying to put the screw into isn't very thick, and it will be very hard to drill and tap that hole.

I was thinking about a press pin, good idea.
 
I was thinking about a press pin, good idea.
Yes, you could use a roll pin, also know as a spring pin.
Make sure you have at least .010" clearance all around the pin, so it can't rub on any surface in the groove. Especially the bottom. It looks a little close in your rendering.
Also, the radii look too small on the ends of the lock button. Also the hole in the lock tab seems to large and too close to the edge of the top of the tab. Take another look at the side by side comparison I posted earlier. The current hole looks 15% too large.
 
Yes, you could use a roll pin, also know as a spring pin.
Make sure you have at least .010" clearance all around the pin, so it can't rub on any surface in the groove. Especially the bottom. It looks a little close in your rendering.
Also, the radii look too small on the ends of the lock button. Also the hole in the lock tab seems to large and too close to the edge of the top of the tab. Take another look at the side by side comparison I posted earlier. The current hole looks 15% too large.

Pin clearance looks small because of the angled view in the picture. I can't make the spring groove much deeper, because it is really close to the bearing groove. I am also thinking about two springs per locking tab.
The radii on the locking tab aren't too big. I have found a lot of new pictures, I will post it later also with locking tab proportions.
 
No need to make the groove any different, just make the pin shorter. No need for two springs.
Also, Radii too SMALL, its the hole that's too big.
 
No need to make the groove any different, just make the pin shorter. No need for two springs.
Also, Radii too SMALL, its the hole that's too big.

I understood your post well, radii on the top and bottom of the locking tab is too small and the hole is too big. I got that ;)
What I wanted so say, is that the radii look pretty small in the pictures. I will make some comparison later.
 
Yes, you could use a roll pin, also know as a spring pin.
Make sure you have at least .010" clearance all around the pin, so it can't rub on any surface in the groove. Especially the bottom. It looks a little close in your rendering.
Also, the radii look too small on the ends of the lock button. Also the hole in the lock tab seems to large and too close to the edge of the top of the tab. Take another look at the side by side comparison I posted earlier. The current hole looks 15% too large.

Here is the locking tab proportion comparison
locking tab 1.jpg locking tab 2.jpg

Also here are some pictures I have found. The radii on the tab is pretty small
jsc2011e017046~orig.jpg jsc2007e13558~orig.jpg jsc2007e033314~orig.jpg jsc2010e014042~orig.jpg
 
I think your side by side is a bit off. The area indicated as the top of the tab is actually the top of the radius, the tab ends higher.
I keep recommending larger radii, because I have handled real pieces and have made the same mistake, of making edges to sharp. I also have a original blueprint which indicates the required radius on the ring edges, and that is 1/32". The lock tabs are clearly more rounded than the rings.
 

Attachments

  • Tab comp.jpg
    Tab comp.jpg
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I think your side by side is a bit off. The area indicated as the top of the tab is actually the top of the radius, the tab ends higher.
I keep recommending larger radii, because I have handled real pieces and have made the same mistake, of making edges to sharp. I also have a original blueprint which indicates the required radius on the ring edges, and that is 1/32". The lock tabs are clearly more rounded than the rings.

Let's take a look at the same picture without any lines. Look at the bottom radius. It is close to mine. Also, you are still referring to the top line as a radius edge. But it is the side of the tab due to the angled view. If the top and bottom radius is larger it appears the hole is too close to the top.
9 - kopie.JPG
 
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