1/32" (0.8255 mm) radii is called out for all corners of the clamp ring. This is likely standard on other exterior corners as well.
This is why I have been saying the radii look too small. I've owned and handled a great many real parts, and grew up around an aerospace machine shop. The print I have is an original print for this same part, but for an EMU ring. (I made an error on the conversion, the actual mm is .79375, so .8mm) I would assume this to be the minimum on all exposed corners.
I have been thinking of how to make this work, and why there is a hole in the top of the lock tab.
Potroclo suggested a extension spring, but I could not see how you would assemble it with the dovetailed lock tab and put the spring in tension.
However, while this design I've come up with does not feel right, it is a way to make this system work with this type of spring and the current configuration. (NOTE: I do not have correct proportions or dimensions on this drawing.)
The threaded pin is partially threaded in, then the lock tab is slid past it's "lock" position so the nose of the threaded pin aligns with the loop on the extension spring. The lock tab is then pulled back and the threaded pin is screwed further down until the nose descends into the 2nd, smaller groove. This then puts the extension spring in tension, and gives a positive stop point for the lock tab.
View attachment 972980
I'm not sure the dimensions you have for these tabs, so I'm not sure of the actual hardware sizes (But they will be imperial not metric)
However, if things don't get too small to be practical, I think this design would explain no pin in the hole of the tab and the thing you can see in the bottom of the hole, which I think is a spring.
You want any screws you use to be in a position so if they back out, cant fail in a way to lock the item in an unworkable position. While the screw in from the bottom could back out and jam, this may be why there is the hole in the lock tab to force the tab to the unlock position with use of a tool to grab that hole. A second hole would be needed to hold the spring back, so when the allen head cap screw is threaded into the lock tab, the spring will be under compression all the time.
That's what I suggested, except I didn't account for the 2nd smaller groove because the tab's movement is limited by the spring's groove itself once assembled and the suit ring that receives the tab once the glove is attached. Also though of a spring pin instead of a threaded screw.I have been thinking of how to make this work, and why there is a hole in the top of the lock tab.
Potroclo suggested a extension spring, but I could not see how you would assemble it with the dovetailed lock tab and put the spring in tension.
However, while this design I've come up with does not feel right, it is a way to make this system work with this type of spring and the current configuration. (NOTE: I do not have correct proportions or dimensions on this drawing.)
The threaded pin is partially threaded in, then the lock tab is slid past it's "lock" position so the nose of the threaded pin aligns with the loop on the extension spring. The lock tab is then pulled back and the threaded pin is screwed further down until the nose descends into the 2nd, smaller groove. This then puts the extension spring in tension, and gives a positive stop point for the lock tab.
View attachment 972980