NASA ACES suit disconnects

[lmgill]

That looks great. If that is 3mm, then perfect, no need for larger. The overall ring design is robust enough that if you make them in plastic, they should hold up fine.
On our replica hardware, no O-rings. On real hardware, yes, you need them to seal. In the design above, I'm using an X-profile seal which may not be necessary, but I thought I'd try it. The ring was designed to use existing hardware. But in real hardware, everything needs to be pure O2 complaint, so no oil.

 

[antarusfree]

That looks great. If that is 3mm, then perfect, no need for larger. The overall ring design is robust enough that if you make them in plastic, they should hold up fine.
On our replica hardware, no O-rings. On real hardware, yes, you need them to seal. In the design above, I'm using an X-profile seal which may not be necessary, but I thought I'd try it. The ring was designed to use existing hardware. But in real hardware, everything needs to be pure O2 complaint, so no oil.

I was going through some o-rings online and found the x-rings, then found your reply mentioning x-ring .
Also found some 3mm big stainless balls, 300 of them will cost around $4 here

 

[antarusfree]

Does anyone have a good hi-def picture of the suit side ring?
There is a seal there and I need to edit the position of it.
Like this view, but better resolution:

 

[Mad Monkey]

Can I just interject for a moment ..


I have never owned or have the skills set to make one or funds to buy one... But my God this is interesting! I've poured over Adams build videos, watched a bunch of other things too.. And now this.. The creation of these things astounds me.

Kudos to all you skilled builders!

Carry on!

 

[asavage]

These work?

 

[antarusfree]

These work?

Adam, yes these will work in terms of accuracy of the overall model.
You don't know for how long I'm trying to find photos like this.
The locking tabs are at different angle and the are driving me crazy .
At least now I can correct that.
But they won't help me with the inside of these ring

 

[lmgill]

I wouldn't worry too much about the seals. If not toleranced correctly they can make engaging and locking the ring difficult.
Are you planning on making these in plastic, or machining them in metal?

 

[antarusfree]

I wouldn't worry too much about the seals. If not toleranced correctly they can make engaging and locking the ring difficult.
Are you planning on making these in plastic, or machining them in metal?

Yeah, I only wanted to make it in the suit side ring. From Adam's last photos it seems, that there is rather a strip than an o-ring.
First prototype will be in plastic. But thinking about aluminium ones too.

 

[antarusfree]

Last photos from Adam threw my dimensions away. I thought that I nailed it, but not.
Anyways, I need to draw everything again due to a clearer view on the locking tabs angles.

But there is another problem that I need to resolve.
The locking tabs are designed as dovetail shape. Does anyone have an idea on how making them spring loaded.
The hole in the top portion of the tab could be for retaining pin, so the tab doesn't fly out.

 

[Potroclo]

Does anyone have an idea on how making them spring loaded.
The hole in the top portion of the tab could be for retaining pin, so the tab doesn't fly out.

Assuming the glove side seal ring acts as a topper for the locking tabs once all is assembled, the locking tab's actual tab, the bit that protrudes and locks, could be slimer than the locking tab itself, much like a latch, so it doesn't slide out to the suit side. Add spring plungers in the locking tab's holes (and corresponding locating holes in the locking ring itself) and it should be secure.

 

[lmgill]

While I have not examined this type of ring before, other Airlock (The company that makes these) designs have a roll pin (Or tiny screw) pressed into the lock tab, that fits in a perpendicular slot in the ring into which a tiny compression spring is placed to keep the lock tab pressed forward into the locking direction.

 

[Potroclo]

Oh right! I was wondering how would you keep the tab pressed down in the locking position, something like this?
the slanted slot would push the ball pin spring plunger, and the locking tab down

 

[antarusfree]

While I have not examined this type of ring before, other Airlock (The company that makes these) designs have a roll pin (Or tiny screw) pressed into the lock tab, that fits in a perpendicular slot in the ring into which a tiny compression spring is placed to keep the lock tab pressed forward into the locking direction.

Imgill, that must be it!!
Will try that and hopefully have a new design by tomorrow.

 

[antarusfree]

Oh right! I was wondering how would you keep the tab pressed down in the locking position, something like this?
View attachment 969463 the slanted slot would push the ball pin spring plunger, and the locking tab down

I think, it is simpler, like this

 

[antarusfree]

I was thinking about the solution with pin and spring (as Imgill mentioned).
I thought that the hole in the upper portion of the locking tab is for that pin for spring, but in this position it would be pressing this tab the other way.

 

[lmgill]

Yes. That's the idea. But There must be another pin arrangement. I'm pretty sure the hole in the tab is to secure the button, but how the spring works I'm not sure. I can make a call or two after the holidays to see if I can find out how it works.

 

[antarusfree]

Yes. That's the idea. But There must be another pin arrangement. I'm pretty sure the hole in the tab is to secure the button, but how the spring works I'm not sure. I can make a call or two after the holidays to see if I can find out how it works.

That would be great.

 

[Potroclo]

I think, it is simpler, like this
View attachment 969467

Ah, I see. But why drill through the whole locking tab then? Wouldn't the pin get out through the bore? I thought it was for inserting a spring plunger, probably a threaded one, its depth (and pressing force on the lock ring) would then be adjusted through the external side (which would explain the through hole). Just to be clear, this is what I'm talking about when I refer to spring plungers:

Edit: I just realized i'm assuming from the begining the hole on the locking tab goes all the way through, pardon my intromision if it's not the case

 

[antarusfree]

Ah, I see. But why drill through the whole locking tab then? Wouldn't the pin get out through the bore? I thought it was for inserting a spring plunger, probably a threaded one, its depth (and pressing force on the lock ring) would then be adjusted through the external side (which would explain the through hole). Just to be clear, this is what I'm talking about when I refer to spring plungers:
View attachment 969520
Edit: I just realized i'm assuming from the begining the hole on the locking tab goes all the way through, pardon my intromision if it's not the case

The solution you describe will work, but then we are talking about assemblies just a few mm in size.
If that hole on the locking tab is all the way through? Well, I don't know, but I think it is.
I can see something through that hole, but don't know what.
Just look for yourself

 

[Potroclo]

The solution you describe will work, but then we are talking about assemblies just a few mm in size.
If that hole on the locking tab is all the way through? Well, I don't know, but I think it is.
I can see something through that hole, but don't know what.
Just look for yourself

wow, I've spent a while scouting the internet for hi res pics that would show the locking tabs but didn't come even close to what you guys are able to find!
You're right, it's too small: I know spring plungers exist and are commonplace enough down to at least 2mm exterior diameter but it seems unlikely (plus they're quite expensive). Looking at your last pictures the simplest answer might be that the hole is for a headless threaded bolt or just a spring pin, inserted after the locking tab is sloted in the lock ring. It might run in a slot made in the locking ring and that is what keeps it from flying away. Also the spring mechanism could then be hidden from view and what Imgill describes but simply reversed with a tension spring instead of a compression one:

The hole goes through for assembly: place the spring in the slot, slide the tab, insert the pin catching the spring et voila