Magic of Myth ( MoM ) Luke RotJ Hero ( cave build ) lightsaber research, images, reference, & collaborative model builder's discussion.

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Poikilotherm

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Merry Christmas everyone! I am on here in between cooking and wanted to ask.

I found a perfect kind of tiny SPDT switch from the UK, but it is 2 mm too tall. 2 millimeters. The switch without the leads is the perfect height. The leads are just too long though, even tried trimming the leads and it makes the fake board sit just up and out of the box. So, I may have to lay it on its side, but how can I use the board (or even the hole in the board) to push down and toggle a switch sideways?

it's obvious that the actor presses on the board and it somehow snaps the switch, so I thought I'd be clever and use the whole fake board as a button. Unless I find a way to get the switch to sit lower...

I got stuck thinking about how to get lateral motion from vertical motion. I guess this is what engineers are for. A curved piece of metal that rocks sideways? A rubber ball that expands as you squish it? help!

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I'm not sure what flicker trigger you'll ultimately choose, but if you use the same switch and want to trigger by pressing the board, I can give you some advice.
DaveP Hero PCB Reveal Boards are great, but if you use the inner steps of the Hero box to hold the board in place, you need to trim the switch.
If you do not trim the switch, you will not be able to trigger the flicker by vertically pressing the board.
After I trimmed it and tried it, it was still working.
Hope these have been useful to you! :)
 

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thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
View attachment 1383815 View attachment 1383816
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I'm not sure what flicker trigger you'll ultimately choose, but if you use the same switch and want to trigger by pressing the board, I can give you some advice.
DaveP Hero PCB Reveal Boards are great, but if you use the inner steps of the Hero box to hold the board in place, you need to trim the switch.
If you do not trim the switch, you will not be able to trigger the flicker by vertically pressing the board.
After I trimmed it and tried it, it was still working.
Hope these have been useful to you! :)
neeeaaat, I didn't think of this, but yes the crucial part of the switch is not the casing of the switch!

1) I'm going to try trimming one of my snap switches - is that just raw board that you can stick things in to test them without soldering? omg I have a lot to learn

2) at some point the research discussion will continue because dave is super swamped, and I'm getting the feeling they didn't chop up a switch to do this
 

Poikilotherm

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
neeeaaat, I didn't think of this, but yes the crucial part of the switch is not the casing of the switch!

1) I'm going to try trimming one of my snap switches - is that just raw board that you can stick things in to test them without soldering? omg I have a lot to learn

2) at some point the research discussion will continue because dave is super swamped, and I'm getting the feeling they didn't chop up a switch to do this
I just connected the parts to the board, soldered the wires on the back, and watched on one side how to use the display board to trigger the switch.
When I feel good, I take out a new set of accessories, copy them from the board, install them on the display board and put them in the hero box.:)
 

tombotham1

New Member
Part_Image.png



Hi Folks, I'm new here and to the community, this is my first project like this, and only 4th project on my lathe so please ignore my ignorance. I made up some designs from what I have researched to make on the lathe which I started today (See picture). I know its been done a million times before, but I wanted to get some opinions from others. Any constructive criticism is muchly appreciated. See attached drawing.

Thank You, TWB.
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DaveP

Sr Member
View attachment 1427334


Hi Folks, I'm new here and to the community, this is my first project like this, and only 4th project on my lathe so please ignore my ignorance. I made up some designs from what I have researched to make on the lathe which I started today (See picture). I know its been done a million times before, but I wanted to get some opinions from others. Any constructive criticism is muchly appreciated. See attached drawing.

Thank You, TWB.
View attachment 1427336
That looks great Tom. Proportions look pretty good. Couple of minor things you might want to change for complete accuracy: the pommel is a bit more detailed. The cubes have a small parallel step before sloping and the gap between them is flat. This should actually make machining them a lot easier. Also, the step down to the pommel from the booster looks a little bit too deep. I'd just check your design against some of the side on references. Your grenade section looks spot on (although it's worth saying every ring should be unique; many replicas have just two different thicknesses). Overall proportions look great though. If you want to be super accurate, I'd consider building your control box rails in four parts (2x T profile and 2x L angle). And something that is often overlooked, the screws should be at 22:10. All in the details :)

Awesome job Tom. I'd love to follow your project if you posted your own thread!
 
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tombotham1

New Member
That looks great Tom. Proportions look pretty good. Couple of minor things you might want to change for complete accuracy: the pommel is a bit more detailed. The cubes have a small parallel step before sloping and the gap between them is flat. This should actually make machining them a lot easier. Also, the step down to the pommel from the booster looks a little bit too deep. I'd just check your design against some of the side on references. Your grenade section looks spot on (although it's worth saying every ring should be unique; many replicas have just two different thicknesses). Overall proportions look great though. If you want to be super accurate, I'd consider building your control box rails in four parts (2x T profile and 2x L angle). And something that is often overlooked, the screws should be at 22:10. All in the details :)

Awesome job Tom. I'd love to follow your project if you posted your own thread!
Thank You for your reply, and thd9791. I have made my own thread: Luke's RotJ Hero Lightsaber Build for the project, and will keep it updated with my progress!!

Thank You, TWB
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Research wise - be careful with Humbrol 54. I got a can that was muddy brown yellow and not orangey brass. It was oily as hell and wouldnt mix properly. 3 different brushes could not lay it down in a smooth coat, it beaded up and separated and ran even with a tiny amount.

Ive read that different sources yield different colors.. either way I dont think this is the shade. I also have to clean up this oily residue on my neck
 

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thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I know we've beat some of these things to death, but I am in the process of making my own black buttons. What are everyone's theories, beyond what has been found here already?

I've seen them sit at different angles suggesting they're separate, but then what is this in between?
Screen Shot 2021-03-18 at 6.19.40 PM.png
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Also, found part or real...

is there something behind them? (look on the right side)
Screen Shot 2021-03-18 at 6.16.41 PM.png
 

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BRRogers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
The nicer/newer castings have an indication of that bar.
personally I think when they repurposed the Yuma box they also squared off the end of the lever and used a jewelers file to make it resemble two buttons.

there’s no photo I’ve seen of the inside of that side of the box but I have a feeling that what we see just behind it is the attachment (machine screw?)
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Is the "bar" you're talking about only at the bottom of the black buttons? trying to confirm if what I'm seeing is just a shadow

I had thought that might be a hole or a place for screws. If it's metal... it would be painted, and probably scratched at some point.

The interesting thing about this bar is that you can see the buttons poking out at different angles, and at different depths
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I'm guessing thats why they reflect different amounts of light here
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BRRogers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
The buttons had been uniform at one time... but if there’s only a little bar (yes low) down there— well I think we’ve all assumed now that it was dropped on the control box at some point. If the metal bent they could have said ‘leave it be’.
I know I probably would have (most times the second round you try and fix anything that small it will snap)

that’s my conjecturing anyway
 

DaveP

Sr Member
I know we've beat some of these things to death, but I am in the process of making my own black buttons. What are everyone's theories, beyond what has been found here already?

I've seen them sit at different angles suggesting they're separate, but then what is this in between?
View attachment 1438076 View attachment 1438077
Also, found part or real...

is there something behind them? (look on the right side)
View attachment 1438075
I spent months trying to find it Tom, believing that it was either a rocker (channel up/channel down) switch, or possibly a slider cap. As Bryan said, it did used to be straight, so I think it was originally one piece. I assume it was damaged the same time as the rails and red triangle.

I was going to do a whole thread about it because I got a bit obsessed about it at one stage. I've kind of given up now, having exhausted every avenue. Including vintage catalogues from the years leading up to production.

The closest I found so far is this:

$_20.jpg


But I believe this model was produced after filming. There's a refurb video on YouTube too and the buttons aren't quite right (no groove on top and bottom.

I still think it could be something *like* this:

73f2b7d5286207c2a272981598c55b0b.jpg


Like I said though, I've given up for a while. For my own sanity! :lol:

I could simply have been made in house, but then I do wonder why they'd go to the trouble of adding a perfect dividing line?
 

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rory

Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I painted my MoM hilt up this week, but I'm nervous about the durability. I sanded both neck section and rails with 120 then 400 grit sandpaper, then primed with a Rustoleum self-etching primer, after that dried I hit it with about six light coats of Ace Antique gold. Once dried I gave it several thin topcoat layers with Tamiya Semi Gloss Topcoat spray (synthetic lacquer). Is that all overkill? And is there anything else I could do to prevent scratching/peeling of that paint on aluminum? I'm about to have it installed and it will be incredibly difficult to strip and repaint once it's assembled and installed. And I'd hate to see get easily scraped up after the fact. Any insights would be helpful.

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BRRogers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
rory
Honestly it sounds as if you’ve done everything possible for as durable a finish as can be expected.

It’s hard to embrace weathering when you want something kept supreme.... the only real solution isn’t the fun one. “Be careful with it” and I understand that isn’t a satisfying answer. But even the best powder coat gets worn, anodizing eventually mattes and smooths with use... even patinas will be lifted over time with hand oil which is true of the other necks provided. Almost every object without exception requires some maintenance and touch up if you want it to remain pristine when it lives a life on users hands.

I think many in THIS thread would probably agree that the age and the love that comes from use actually can add some character and make it feel more in-universe and screen accurate.

Long story short, it sounds like you’ve prepped as well as you can! Throw some mild cling tape on there to protect the finishes during install and whatever else happens is a part of your lightsabers’ character.... (but most things can be taped off and re-touched if need be ... and not necessarily disassembled. So I hope that provides some alternate re-assurance)
 

rory

Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Well you're not wrong BRRogers. I tend to0 get way to fastidious about these details, lol. Just have to handle it carefully. Like you said, it's not impossible to refinish it if need be down the line. I've got some light tamiya modeling tape that'll wrap it in during install. After that it'll mostly sit on a shelf so it should be fine. I have to remember to just enjoy the hobby.
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Yes, I have some suggestions too.

Painter's tape is great for masking off stuff to protect it - but stick the tape to your shirt or pants first, and rip it off. Less chance of it peeling off paint.

I'm amazed the lacquer didn't mess with the Ace enamel! You can usually lay acrylic over enamel over lacquer but not the other way around. Harder stuff goes on bottom (lacquer) and the solvents are usually stronger or something. but hey, if it worked, don't mess with it, you nailed it!

The real props themselves did not stay pretty either. In the close-ups you can see damage, scratches, etc. so I consider light damage to be authentic :D
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Not 100% accurate to the weird styrene job they did, but I have scratches all over this, it was hand done, and it's not even level I don't think. I did a cleaner edge on my Yuma grips surprisingly, and this hero I'm working on has a rough edge right above the control box :( but I'm learning to love hand made finishes (click for larger)

fullsizeoutput_25cc.jpeg fullsizeoutput_25c4.jpeg
 

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