Magic of Myth ( MoM ) Luke RotJ Hero ( cave build ) lightsaber research, images, reference, & collaborative model builder's discussion.

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thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Hey guys,

sometime between the MoM exhibit and identities, the control box card was put in backwards. The white damage to the first trace flips spots
Screen Shot 2020-12-11 at 5.16.03 PM.png
Screen Shot 2020-12-11 at 5.16.08 PM.png

I'm guessing the control box fell a part again and they repaired it.. again
 

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thd9791

Master Member
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I'm sorry, I'm popping into the research thread again. I just (sloppily) cut some Plastruct 7/16" / 11.1 mm Gray I-beam (90028) into two rails just to get the feeling of doing this. Without even trimming, it's a razor thin clearance for the card you guys made. To make it tighter, we just thin the vertical section that would be glued to the side of the box. The sides are a hair over the sides of the real prop, and just need to be sanded too. Pretty cool stuff
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
It's almost like they made details people would believe based on the tech around them!

seriously though, I found these while hunting the black buttons and got nowhere. No double-buttons that are attached, no single ones, etc. that match. Considering how long the green thing is in there, I've been thinking they cut a piece of triangle acrylic bar to act as a fiber optic and direct the light out the holes
 

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PrinceZip

Master Member
It's almost like they made details people would believe based on the tech around them!

seriously though, I found these while hunting the black buttons and got nowhere. No double-buttons that are attached, no single ones, etc. that match. Considering how long the green thing is in there, I've been thinking they cut a piece of triangle acrylic bar to act as a fiber optic and direct the light out the holes

I think it's also possible the acrylic arrows themselves are found parts from these audio equipments.
Look at the precision cut and the perfect triangular shape. (Except the red arrow, which is chipped)

Screen Shot 2020-12-23 at 4.10.56 PM.png
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Merry Christmas everyone! I am on here in between cooking and wanted to ask.

I found a perfect kind of tiny SPDT switch from the UK, but it is 2 mm too tall. 2 millimeters. The switch without the leads is the perfect height. The leads are just too long though, even tried trimming the leads and it makes the fake board sit just up and out of the box. So, I may have to lay it on its side, but how can I use the board (or even the hole in the board) to push down and toggle a switch sideways?

it's obvious that the actor presses on the board and it somehow snaps the switch, so I thought I'd be clever and use the whole fake board as a button. Unless I find a way to get the switch to sit lower...

I got stuck thinking about how to get lateral motion from vertical motion. I guess this is what engineers are for. A curved piece of metal that rocks sideways? A rubber ball that expands as you squish it? help!
 

BTTUK

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Merry Christmas everyone! I am on here in between cooking and wanted to ask.

I found a perfect kind of tiny SPDT switch from the UK, but it is 2 mm too tall. 2 millimeters. The switch without the leads is the perfect height. The leads are just too long though, even tried trimming the leads and it makes the fake board sit just up and out of the box. So, I may have to lay it on its side, but how can I use the board (or even the hole in the board) to push down and toggle a switch sideways?

it's obvious that the actor presses on the board and it somehow snaps the switch, so I thought I'd be clever and use the whole fake board as a button. Unless I find a way to get the switch to sit lower...

I got stuck thinking about how to get lateral motion from vertical motion. I guess this is what engineers are for. A curved piece of metal that rocks sideways? A rubber ball that expands as you squish it? help!
Some sort of bell crank if you can rig one up small enough
 

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Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Merry Christmas everyone! I am on here in between cooking and wanted to ask.

I found a perfect kind of tiny SPDT switch from the UK, but it is 2 mm too tall. 2 millimeters. The switch without the leads is the perfect height. The leads are just too long though, even tried trimming the leads and it makes the fake board sit just up and out of the box. So, I may have to lay it on its side, but how can I use the board (or even the hole in the board) to push down and toggle a switch sideways?

it's obvious that the actor presses on the board and it somehow snaps the switch, so I thought I'd be clever and use the whole fake board as a button. Unless I find a way to get the switch to sit lower...

I got stuck thinking about how to get lateral motion from vertical motion. I guess this is what engineers are for. A curved piece of metal that rocks sideways? A rubber ball that expands as you squish it? help!

I too am looking for a smaller switch.. mine is far too large

I can’t find these any smaller then this..

If anyone has any links I’d really appreciate it

IMG_9386.jpg

IMG_9385.jpg

IMG_9384.jpg

IMG_9381.jpg

IMG_9380.jpg
 

Poikilotherm

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I too am looking for a smaller switch.. mine is far too large

I can’t find these any smaller then this..

If anyone has any links I’d really appreciate it

View attachment 1382168
View attachment 1382170
View attachment 1382171
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View attachment 1382177

12.9.12.png

11.21.jpg

11.22.jpg
11.23.jpg

11.20.jpg

11.25.jpg

11.24.jpg

I looked for some switches before and all of them failed. Finally, I chose the one in the picture and made the maximum pruning. Finally, I fixed it under the board with E6000.
As for the switch, it may be very suitable. The two switches I used have the following names: SS12d00G4, KFC-V-307:)
 
Last edited:

v312

Active Member
How about these ?
 

Poikilotherm

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
How about these ?
12.30.png
That's what I'm using right now :)
 

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thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I dont know what im doing with the spdt switch, but i was able to bend the leads of this switch to right angles and now it sits pretty level where we think it is.

I used a utility knife to score and snap the board into what i saw on a blown up version of the 90s archive photos, and my guess for the switch end. Though in the deleted scene, the chip is almost in the CENTER of the box

20201228_175904.jpg
20201228_175830.jpg
 

BRRogers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I have been so pre-occupied and swamped IRL the past few months I haven’t been able to do a breakdown but;
The original reveal board is definitely at least 2 maybe 3 layers of stacked PCB. There is a visible Phillips head screw securing *something* from the top down and I assume it is a sidewise mounted SPDT as poikilotherm showed... some of them have that metal actuator which can be bent and my best guess is that the actuator arm was bent 90° from the pole to make it easier to depress from side to side in that position.
there aren’t many other things that could make sense wiring wise (or volume) based on the moves MH performs while operating the box.
 

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