Magic of Myth ( MoM ) Luke RotJ Hero ( cave build ) lightsaber research, images, reference, & collaborative model builder's discussion.
- Thread starter BRRogers
- Start date
I'm sorry, I'm popping into the research thread again. I just (sloppily) cut some Plastruct 7/16" / 11.1 mm Gray I-beam (90028) into two rails just to get the feeling of doing this. Without even trimming, it's a razor thin clearance for the card you guys made. To make it tighter, we just thin the vertical section that would be glued to the side of the box. The sides are a hair over the sides of the real prop, and just need to be sanded too. Pretty cool stuff
PrinceZip
Master Member
Here are some fun screencaps of cassette and audio equipment of the early 80srecognize anything?
View attachment 1381480View attachment 1381481View attachment 1381482
The plot thickens... coincidence?
It's almost like they made details people would believe based on the tech around them!
seriously though, I found these while hunting the black buttons and got nowhere. No double-buttons that are attached, no single ones, etc. that match. Considering how long the green thing is in there, I've been thinking they cut a piece of triangle acrylic bar to act as a fiber optic and direct the light out the holes
seriously though, I found these while hunting the black buttons and got nowhere. No double-buttons that are attached, no single ones, etc. that match. Considering how long the green thing is in there, I've been thinking they cut a piece of triangle acrylic bar to act as a fiber optic and direct the light out the holes
PrinceZip
Master Member
I think it's also possible the acrylic arrows themselves are found parts from these audio equipments.
Look at the precision cut and the perfect triangular shape. (Except the red arrow, which is chipped)
haha compared to the misaligned screws (never realized one was so close to the bottom edge of the plate) ...I see your point
Mouse Vader
Sr Member
Conspiracy !The plot thickens... coincidence?
I wouldn't rule out triangular acrylic bar stock either - not that I've ever see any mind.
Merry Christmas everyone! I am on here in between cooking and wanted to ask.
I found a perfect kind of tiny SPDT switch from the UK, but it is 2 mm too tall. 2 millimeters. The switch without the leads is the perfect height. The leads are just too long though, even tried trimming the leads and it makes the fake board sit just up and out of the box. So, I may have to lay it on its side, but how can I use the board (or even the hole in the board) to push down and toggle a switch sideways?
it's obvious that the actor presses on the board and it somehow snaps the switch, so I thought I'd be clever and use the whole fake board as a button. Unless I find a way to get the switch to sit lower...
I got stuck thinking about how to get lateral motion from vertical motion. I guess this is what engineers are for. A curved piece of metal that rocks sideways? A rubber ball that expands as you squish it? help!
I found a perfect kind of tiny SPDT switch from the UK, but it is 2 mm too tall. 2 millimeters. The switch without the leads is the perfect height. The leads are just too long though, even tried trimming the leads and it makes the fake board sit just up and out of the box. So, I may have to lay it on its side, but how can I use the board (or even the hole in the board) to push down and toggle a switch sideways?
it's obvious that the actor presses on the board and it somehow snaps the switch, so I thought I'd be clever and use the whole fake board as a button. Unless I find a way to get the switch to sit lower...
I got stuck thinking about how to get lateral motion from vertical motion. I guess this is what engineers are for. A curved piece of metal that rocks sideways? A rubber ball that expands as you squish it? help!
Some sort of bell crank if you can rig one up small enough
I too am looking for a smaller switch.. mine is far too large
I can’t find these any smaller then this..
If anyone has any links I’d really appreciate it
Poikilotherm
Sr Member
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How about these ?
www.pololu.com
www.sparkfun.com
Pololu - Mini Slide Switch: 3-Pin, SPDT, 0.3A (3-Pack)
These small single-pole, double-throw (SPDT) slide switches are rated for 300 mA at 50 VDC and make great on/off power switches for low power electronics. They can also be used as a convenient way to choose between two analog or digital input signals. The three pins have a 0.1″ spacing that...
www.pololu.com
SPDT Slide Switch
This is a simple SPDT slide switch - great for use as an ON/OFF button, or just as a general control switch. The pins are spaced by 0.1", however they are incredibly thin making breadboard use not recommended. The switch is rated for 0.3A at 50VDC. This
www.sparkfun.com
Poikilotherm
Sr Member
How about these ?
Pololu - Mini Slide Switch: 3-Pin, SPDT, 0.3A (3-Pack)
These small single-pole, double-throw (SPDT) slide switches are rated for 300 mA at 50 VDC and make great on/off power switches for low power electronics. They can also be used as a convenient way to choose between two analog or digital input signals. The three pins have a 0.1″ spacing that...SPDT Slide Switch
This is a simple SPDT slide switch - great for use as an ON/OFF button, or just as a general control switch. The pins are spaced by 0.1", however they are incredibly thin making breadboard use not recommended. The switch is rated for 0.3A at 50VDC. This
The two switches I used have the following names: SS12d00G4, KFC-V-307
where are you ordering these from? i cant find these part numbers on mouser?
Poikilotherm
Sr Member
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you made this too easy! thank you very much!
I dont know what im doing with the spdt switch, but i was able to bend the leads of this switch to right angles and now it sits pretty level where we think it is.
I used a utility knife to score and snap the board into what i saw on a blown up version of the 90s archive photos, and my guess for the switch end. Though in the deleted scene, the chip is almost in the CENTER of the box
I used a utility knife to score and snap the board into what i saw on a blown up version of the 90s archive photos, and my guess for the switch end. Though in the deleted scene, the chip is almost in the CENTER of the box
I have been so pre-occupied and swamped IRL the past few months I haven’t been able to do a breakdown but;
The original reveal board is definitely at least 2 maybe 3 layers of stacked PCB. There is a visible Phillips head screw securing *something* from the top down and I assume it is a sidewise mounted SPDT as poikilotherm showed... some of them have that metal actuator which can be bent and my best guess is that the actuator arm was bent 90° from the pole to make it easier to depress from side to side in that position.
there aren’t many other things that could make sense wiring wise (or volume) based on the moves MH performs while operating the box.
The original reveal board is definitely at least 2 maybe 3 layers of stacked PCB. There is a visible Phillips head screw securing *something* from the top down and I assume it is a sidewise mounted SPDT as poikilotherm showed... some of them have that metal actuator which can be bent and my best guess is that the actuator arm was bent 90° from the pole to make it easier to depress from side to side in that position.
there aren’t many other things that could make sense wiring wise (or volume) based on the moves MH performs while operating the box.
