All sound reasoning. I guess we'll not know for sure unless there's new evidence. Brandon has said he leans toward the V2 not being cast & he's likely to have a had a good look. Of course doesn't rule out it being a machined casting. Has anyone suggested to him having it x-rayed ? I understand it's not unusual in mid-larger manufacturing to check for defects / quality control. Could also be a useful record / provenance.
 
This so awesome! I appreciate all the write-ups and information, its quite insightful into the process. The end result is outstanding, all that tinkering with the casts and electronics really paid off. I've got to give a motorized stunt a go one of these days... By the way, what motor did you settle on? The 620 6V, or something else?
 
It just hit me that the screws under the emitter lip help the emitter bearing stay put. That's probably the case with the V2, i'm so late on this lol

Not necessarily. It's amazing the vast number of specifically sized bearings out there. I may have a bad habit of machining with a slightly looser tolerance than I'd like but that is one instance where I didn't; the bushing is pressure fitted in the V2 emitter. Had I had a tighter fit on my emitter collar into the windvane, the whole emitter set up would hold without the need of nipple. It's one of those things that have me debating bothering keeping it on later hilts I'm planning on making. On this model, it's mostly for securing the emitter to the nipple.

This so awesome! I appreciate all the write-ups and information, its quite insightful into the process. The end result is outstanding, all that tinkering with the casts and electronics really paid off. I've got to give a motorized stunt a go one of these days... By the way, what motor did you settle on? The 620 6V, or something else?

Yep. I stuck to the 620 6v motor based on Mouse Vader's diligent research (from his much-more-thoroughly documented thread on his Graflex stunt) and based on Jon Bunker's recollection. That way it satisfies two fronts: what's matched on screen and what's remembered by the original builder.
 
This is the most wonderful thing I have seen in the last 25 years!!!! though I do not understand the D/S term, please explain.
D/S = Drive Shaft

I've just taken liberally from Mouse Vader's work. ;) That's the term he uses (one I find more adequate) to describe the steel rod that runs through the whole set-up. Before it was just known as... well, the "rod,"or the "central rod", tang, and a number of variations on that. The d/s just better describes its purpose.
 
I've just taken liberally from Mouse Vader's work.
You're welcome, as is anyone else to use any or all of the stuff I put on my thread. I Intended it as open source & was as prolific with how I did stuff & my thought processes & sources as I could be to allow everyone the chance to form their own opinion as to how well I was doing. Does me good to see you succeeding in your project PPP.
 
Been trying to work out kinks with my newest buck and I'm so close! Just a few problems with the one cast today; had it not been for them, it would've been perfect!

I'm trying a different pouring orientation and I'm also prepping my melted Alu with sodium carbonate and flux, which has gone a long way in cleaning up my casts (porosity has been greatly reduced), but I'm getting more edge breaking in the emitter area (which caused the gaps in the emitter plate) than I was getting before. I also need to prick/vent the sand in places to make sure gas can escape to properly fill with this new pouring method.

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I know you may know this but just in case you don't, you need to have the gate to the middle a much bigger diam. than at present. It's freezing out too early in the reduced diam part & cutting off the reservoir of molten metal needed to stop that contraction sag. Much cleaner looking cast though, well done.
 
Thanks, Mouse! The sodium carbonate really works; Myfordboy knows what he's doing!

I was thinking about doing a funnel shape for the middle gate but worried that it may just collapse the negative. Knowing this, I think I'll just use a larger diameter pipe instead.
 
It's as perfect as perfect's gonna get me...so far.

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Still getting breakage around the emitter but I'm working on solving that, mind. There's also a small pocket on the edge of the emitter plate (dunno what caused it), but as far as I've done, this is the best I've done yet in terms of casting. Porosity is down and everything is filled in, barring the small uglies it still sports.

This will be the standard I've got to achieve and try and do better than. And I'm sure I can replicate these results now. These are also going to be the "raw casts" I'll be offering when the run can get up and running again. I have intentionally lengthened the gap between the pommel and booster to not be accurate to the real thing, as a bit of a "maker's mark;" the rest is as close as I could possibly get to the original wood master's detail with only the photos available.

I've also added a photo of the real thing to compare to. (Please keep in mind that parallax is also affecting both images.)

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This is the kind of stuff that drives a man mad:

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Two beautiful, perfectly filled casts, right?

Nope.

A corner broke off somewhere during filling and created a huge pocket on one. A partial contraction on the other that warped the booster, too. Unsalvageable and non-machineable.

Have to melt these two down and hope for the best. Again.

I can do everything right, run the race and finish the course, but it just won't give me the prize from time to time. Alas, I must keep the faith.

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Recent cast also has some minor contraction and edge damage.


Ugh....
 

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