indiefilmgeek
Sr Member
Just sent you that email. If you have any other questions feel free to drop me a line anytime!
:thumbsup
Ironman Costume for 5yr old - LINKS on PAGE 1 - tips & important bits
- Thread starter indiefilmgeek
- Start date
Just sent you that email. If you have any other questions feel free to drop me a line anytime!
:thumbsup
Willswoosh
New Member
Man this is cool. I bet your son feels like a superstar, as he should! I have a 4 year old and I am considering this for a side project.
Very cool and thanks for the helpful tips!
Very cool and thanks for the helpful tips!
This build thread is over 24 pages long, so I wanted to show you what the finished suit looked like before you go hunting for it through all those pages!
I also figured I'd provide some helpful navigation for this thread (cause it's stupid long now):
HELMET WORK (just scroll down - it's in the first post)
PAINTING METHOD
WHERE TO GET EVA FOAM
CONSTRUCTION WITH EVA FOAM
VOICE CHANGER FOR HELMET
ELBOW JOINT EXPLAINED
BUILDING THE HAND-PLATE TRIGGER FOR THE REPULSORS 1
BUILDING THE HAND-PLATE TRIGGER FOR THE REPULSORS 2
GLOVE WORK 1
GLOVE WORK 2
BUILDING THE ARC REACTOR 1
BUILDING THE ARC REACTOR 2
BUILDING THE ARC REACTOR 3
BUILDING THE CHEST/BACK PIECE 1
BUILDING THE CHEST/BACK PIECE 2
FABRIC UNDER ARMOR
BUILDING THE BOOTS 1
BUILDING THE BOOTS 2
LEG ASSEMBLY AND FINAL PICS OF THE BOOTS
SIMPLE VELCRO LEG TO HIP CONNECTION
FINISHED PICTURES - DAYTIME
FINISHED PICTURES - EVENING
FINISHED PICTURE - NIGHT
------------------------------
Original First Post on 11-24-11:
------------------------------
I am working on constructing a Halloween costume for my 5 year old son, Michael. He would like to be Ironman, so I hit your forums (and 405th) and began working on some pep armor for his costume. I began with the helmet and only started this thread as I was finishing it up.
To be begin with, I'll mention that I'm using Robo's Ironman Mark IV files for most of this build (notable exception is this helmet, for example, is based on the Samuray did on dungbeetles helmet that had a smaller chin). They are clean and simple and perfect for this scale model version of the suit. A huge 'thank you' to Robo and all the guys/gals out there that help us all out by supplying these GREAT pep files!
To start the build I began with the helmet and here's some pics of that process...
The larger was my very first pep construction, but I scaled it too big and had to go smaller. The second (smaller one) is the pep that became Mikey's helmet. On that piece, you will notice I also cheated and made the eye holes slightly larger.
Big (test) helmet done... Final helmet, let to go! Since it was deep winter when I started this project, I borrowed my friends garage to fiberglass the two helmets I had pepped. I had decided to keep all the pieces together through the hardening process, so their edges would line up easier.
Scary first application of bondo... I truly thought I'd ruined the piece! lol
...but after sanding, it looked a bit better.
More bondo... more sanding.
So, after LOTS of applications of bondo and glazing putty, I was ready to prime the helmet.
Primed and ready to be cut into three parts: Faceplate, back piece and the main helmet body.
Cut into three pieces... showing the faceplate open!
Test Fitting with Mikey.
And then in early April we created a manikin so I could start working on some of the body armor pieces. Here's a little time-lapse video for ya!
Here are a few update photos now that the main section of the helmet has been painted. The test fitting pictures (below) show both Mikey and I holding the helmet in place. This is because I still don't have padding added inside the helmet yet (probably won't until we're closer to Halloween and I know his head isn't going to get any bigger!)
And finally... Here is a little video explaining the magnetic faceplate connectors (as well as the electrical connectors for the LED eye lights).
Next up is adding a bit of weathering and a final clear coat. I've also finished pepping his Cod Piece and started work on pep pieces for his gloves. More picture on those later this weekend (hopefully).
Lastly, I just wanted to give a huge THANK YOU to all the folks that posted pictures, tutorials and videos of their projects on this site (and others). I've never worked with any of these materials before, and I couldn't have come this far without all the experience and time you've put into fostering this community of awesomely create people!
NOTE: Further info on the magnetic/electrical alternative to building a hinge for the faceplate can be found HERE.
indiefilmgeek
Sr Member
I'll add two things I'd do differently now...
- No neck seal - just a black balaclava will work GREAT.
- No full-boots - just create some 'covers' that fit OVER a pair of heavy black boots.
gaudopippo
New Member
What do you think ironman dress for my child?
he also has four years
is made in foam
for the light in the hand I used a high-intensity LED and a battery 12v http://www.xled.it/prodotti/powerled/
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indiefilmgeek
Sr Member
How awesome is that?!?! I love the paint job you did on this (and it's SO tiny!!!). You have to post some pictures of him in the suit! :thumbsup
:thumbsupgaudopippo
New Member
Re: Ironman Costume for 5yr old - LINKS on PAGE 1 - tips & important bits
Him in the suit
- - - Updated - - -
Him in the suit
- - - Updated - - -
I did not use magnets but I created an iron hinge and screws, LEDs and circuits are all in the front and also the battery 12v
indiefilmgeek
Sr Member
Re: Ironman Costume for 5yr old - LINKS on PAGE 1 - tips & important bits
Looks super cool!!! Great job!)
I've been asked a lot about the magnets (and electronics) in Mikey's armor. Here's the info I normally provide anyone that asks....
REFERENCE:
Here is the video again of the magnets and electronics for the helmet: Ironman helmet magnets/wiring explained - YouTube
And you probably have the magnet link as well, but I'll include this again too, neodymium magnets: K&J Magnetics - Strong Neodymium Magnets, Rare Earth Magnets
EXACT MAGNETS:
For my build, I used the following magnets at each of the position discussed in the video:
The heaviest magnets I used were the ones on the inside top of the helmet (for use when the faceplate is in the open position). These have to effectively hold the faceplate in the open position through the thickness of the top of the helmet (since they are inside the helmet and the faceplate is on the outside). Magnets lose effective holding power FAST as you move away from them, so I went with these bad boys for my build... 1/2" dia. x 3/8" thick - Grade N42 - Nickel Plated neodymium magnets (~$2 each). <I used 2 of these>
The lightest (thinnest) magnets I used were on the chin of the faceplate (and under the metal electrical connector plate on each side of the top of the faceplate). Those were 10mm dia. x 2mm thick - Grade N35 - Nickel Plated neodymium magnets (pack of 25 for ~$5). <I used 3 of these>
The magnets at the eye-hole level of the faceplate and the ones underneath the metal plates on the main body of the helmet (the metal plates that connect to the faceplate connectors) were12.6mm dia x 5mm thick - Grade N35 - Nickel plated neodymium magnets (10 pack for $5). <I used 4 of these>
So, that's NINE total magnets... Keep your helmet away from pacemakers and magnetic computer discs! lol
LIGHTS:
The lights I used were a string of white LED battery-powered Christmas lights I bought at Big Lots last year for $5-6.
I cut the string of lights down to just two groups of five lights each (still connected to the four AA battery pack it comes with). Each cluster of 5 LEDs were hot glued into a semi-circle and then aimed/angled backward (away from the the eye opening in the helmet) toward a very white piece of plastic. In front of this I put a section of blue-tinted piece of plastic (I got this from a $1 pair of sunglasses a the dollar tree). And then finally a thin sheet of matte finished clear plastic (in my case I used a frosted-looking clear plastic folder I picked up at Wal-mart).
WIRING:
The LEDs clusters are connected to each other with the circuit open at either end (negative on one side, positive wire on the other side). These two wires run up to the metal connector plates on the top of the back of the faceplate.
Here is a quick and ugly drawing of the LED lights and their placement within the lenses assembly and overall wiring.
If you buy a string of LED lights that comes with a battery pack (which is what I did), here is the most basic list of steps from there:
* The LEDs won't work unless you have the + wires connected and the - wires connected, so just make sure you're connecting the right wires via those contact plates.
THE FIRST PROBLEM I HAD:
While those step seem simple the issue I had was actually getting the wire soldered to the metal plates. I'm also not very adept at wiring, so it took me some time to figure out how to get this done. In the end, the metal plate I was using didn't want to hold he solder (even with a hole I cut to stick the wire through for soldering - it kept flaking off the slick metal surface anytime I torqued it. I finally just heaped some solder on the stupid connection of wire and metal plate and then immediately hit the thing with a layer of hot glue (the wire connection - NOT the area of the metal plate that will be making contact with another plate... those surfaces need to be very clean and smooth so the metal makes good contact). The glue layer over the solder keeps the tension off the soldeed connection, which stays well connected and allows the electricity to flow nicely from metal contact to metal contact.
THE SECOND PROBLEM I HAD:
Lining up the metal contact plates and making sure both were making very good contact took some playing around with the metal plates. No real tricks or tips I can offer here... just be patient and keep working at it until you get them into a position where the thing lights every time the faceplate closes... then hot glue those b!#$hes down so they can't move.
TOOLS:
STUFF:
Him in the suit
Looks super cool!!! Great job!
)I've been asked a lot about the magnets (and electronics) in Mikey's armor. Here's the info I normally provide anyone that asks....
REFERENCE:
Here is the video again of the magnets and electronics for the helmet: Ironman helmet magnets/wiring explained - YouTube
And you probably have the magnet link as well, but I'll include this again too, neodymium magnets: K&J Magnetics - Strong Neodymium Magnets, Rare Earth Magnets
EXACT MAGNETS:
For my build, I used the following magnets at each of the position discussed in the video:
The heaviest magnets I used were the ones on the inside top of the helmet (for use when the faceplate is in the open position). These have to effectively hold the faceplate in the open position through the thickness of the top of the helmet (since they are inside the helmet and the faceplate is on the outside). Magnets lose effective holding power FAST as you move away from them, so I went with these bad boys for my build... 1/2" dia. x 3/8" thick - Grade N42 - Nickel Plated neodymium magnets (~$2 each). <I used 2 of these>
The lightest (thinnest) magnets I used were on the chin of the faceplate (and under the metal electrical connector plate on each side of the top of the faceplate). Those were 10mm dia. x 2mm thick - Grade N35 - Nickel Plated neodymium magnets (pack of 25 for ~$5). <I used 3 of these>
The magnets at the eye-hole level of the faceplate and the ones underneath the metal plates on the main body of the helmet (the metal plates that connect to the faceplate connectors) were12.6mm dia x 5mm thick - Grade N35 - Nickel plated neodymium magnets (10 pack for $5). <I used 4 of these>
So, that's NINE total magnets... Keep your helmet away from pacemakers and magnetic computer discs! lol
LIGHTS:
The lights I used were a string of white LED battery-powered Christmas lights I bought at Big Lots last year for $5-6.
I cut the string of lights down to just two groups of five lights each (still connected to the four AA battery pack it comes with). Each cluster of 5 LEDs were hot glued into a semi-circle and then aimed/angled backward (away from the the eye opening in the helmet) toward a very white piece of plastic. In front of this I put a section of blue-tinted piece of plastic (I got this from a $1 pair of sunglasses a the dollar tree). And then finally a thin sheet of matte finished clear plastic (in my case I used a frosted-looking clear plastic folder I picked up at Wal-mart).
WIRING:
The LEDs clusters are connected to each other with the circuit open at either end (negative on one side, positive wire on the other side). These two wires run up to the metal connector plates on the top of the back of the faceplate.
Here is a quick and ugly drawing of the LED lights and their placement within the lenses assembly and overall wiring.
If you buy a string of LED lights that comes with a battery pack (which is what I did), here is the most basic list of steps from there:
- Severe the wires heading to the battery pack (You then have a + and a - wire at the battery pack and another set coming out of the LED's).
- Connect the + and - wires from the LEDs to the two metal contact plates on the back side of the faceplate.
- Connect the + and - wires from the battery pack to the two metal contact plates on the main body of the helmet (remember to line these up with the two metal plates on the faceplate to they make good contact when the faceplate is closed.
* The LEDs won't work unless you have the + wires connected and the - wires connected, so just make sure you're connecting the right wires via those contact plates.
THE FIRST PROBLEM I HAD:
While those step seem simple the issue I had was actually getting the wire soldered to the metal plates. I'm also not very adept at wiring, so it took me some time to figure out how to get this done. In the end, the metal plate I was using didn't want to hold he solder (even with a hole I cut to stick the wire through for soldering - it kept flaking off the slick metal surface anytime I torqued it. I finally just heaped some solder on the stupid connection of wire and metal plate and then immediately hit the thing with a layer of hot glue (the wire connection - NOT the area of the metal plate that will be making contact with another plate... those surfaces need to be very clean and smooth so the metal makes good contact). The glue layer over the solder keeps the tension off the soldeed connection, which stays well connected and allows the electricity to flow nicely from metal contact to metal contact.
THE SECOND PROBLEM I HAD:
Lining up the metal contact plates and making sure both were making very good contact took some playing around with the metal plates. No real tricks or tips I can offer here... just be patient and keep working at it until you get them into a position where the thing lights every time the faceplate closes... then hot glue those b!#$hes down so they can't move.
TOOLS:
- Hot glue gun -- I use WAY too much hot glue. I attach magnets with it, construct the pep cardstock with it, build the layered LED eye units with it... I pretty much swear by it.
- Soldering Iron (or woodburning tool) -- I bought a cheap-ass woodburning tool instead of an expensive soldering iron. It works the same.
- Pliers -- to bend the metal contact plates into position (or re-position them).
- Metal cutting tool -- Only if you are making your own contact plates from scrap you have laying around.
- Drill -- to cut the hole in the contact plates so you can stick your wire into the plate and then solder it there.
- Wire cuts -- some people like the ones that also strip the wires.
STUFF:
- Hot glue gun sticks
- Solder
- A spool of two strand wire (you'll need to add some length to any LED lights and battery pack you're using). 18-22 gauge wire will be good, but anything close will work.
- Electric tape or wire connectors
gaudopippo
New Member
Re: Ironman Costume for 5yr old - LINKS on PAGE 1 - tips & important bits
too complicated, I just used the adhesive LED strips 12V
and I glued a piece of strip with three LEDs for occhio.dietro I placed a piece of reflective 3M
and in front of a piece of translucent plastic with a hole for all to see. To power a 12V battery of 2 cm, all stuck with hot glue on the mask, there are no eletric contacts between front mask and helmet
I used this for my chest and powered by 12 V
and I used this for the hands and powered by 12 V
too complicated, I just used the adhesive LED strips 12V
and I glued a piece of strip with three LEDs for occhio.dietro I placed a piece of reflective 3M
and in front of a piece of translucent plastic with a hole for all to see. To power a 12V battery of 2 cm, all stuck with hot glue on the mask, there are no eletric contacts between front mask and helmet
I used this for my chest and powered by 12 V
and I used this for the hands and powered by 12 V
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mc1681
New Member
I just started researching for my Iron Man suit project and stumbled upon your thread. Excellent work. I know you've probably heard this a million times already, but I am sooo jealous of your kid! That is some incredible craftsmanship! Might not mean much coming from a guy you don't even know, but you get two big thumbs up and if they had such an award "Father of the Century"!
syph013
New Member
You're thread is an inspiration, thank you so much for sharing. So far I've made my arc reactor and have nearly finished cutting out the pep for the helmet.
The mix of pep and fibreglass is just what I want to do.
May I ask a couple of questions, did you seal the foam prior to your painting or was the plasicoat the sealant? And you added the black acrylic after the clear coat?
The mix of pep and fibreglass is just what I want to do.
May I ask a couple of questions, did you seal the foam prior to your painting or was the plasicoat the sealant? And you added the black acrylic after the clear coat?
indiefilmgeek
Sr Member
I truly love the RPF community because it's a place to learn from and share with (usually a lot of both). I've learned SO much from the folks on here, I feel like my handful of kid's costume build threads is a very small contribution to this epic site. So, it always means a lot when someone drops me a line and comments on the work. I very much enjoyed building it for Mikey and I enjoyed sharing it (both the stuff that worked the stuff that didn't) with everyone here.
Thanks for the kind word - and good luck on your own build. If you have any questions you can PM me anytime!
I've seen some techniques used recently that 'heat-seal' the foam prior to painting. I think that might be a good idea of you're using foam that's similar to floor mats. I use Wandy Foam, and it's actually smoother than any craft foam I've ever laid my hands on. So, in my case, I didn't need to 'treat' it in a way that closed the pores of the foam. The plasti-dip was used mostly to hide seams, hold the foam pieces together and to give my a solid base that I could then paint (after using an Adhesive Promoter).
So, if you're using a thick floor mat type foam, I'd definitely look up either XRobot's smooth-cast resin covering system (which seems pretty awesome), or go with the heat-seal system out there. Both will work well for that material. If you're going to use Wandy Foam (probably 6mm stuff for adult suits), you can use the plasti-dip, adhesive promoter then auto-paint method I used for Mikey's armor.
Good luck - and keep me updated on which build method you end up using... I'm always willing to learn some new tricks!
Thread posted to the RPF Pulse. Fantastic resource of information! Thanks for sharing!
Entertainment and Movie Prop News | The RPF Pulse
Entertainment and Movie Prop News | The RPF Pulse
indiefilmgeek
Sr Member
Thank YOU for sharing it on PULSE. There's been several major advances in Foam building since I built this years ago.
Heat sealing with a heat gun, using PVA and then smoothcast, and (of course) using Worbla have all taken foam costume builds to the next level. Anyone interested in working with EVA foam should definitely look up each of these methods - there are great advantages to each.
Maybe I'll add some of this on the first post (with links). Each of these have been featured here on RPF by some of our very creative and brilliant builders!
Heat sealing with a heat gun, using PVA and then smoothcast, and (of course) using Worbla have all taken foam costume builds to the next level. Anyone interested in working with EVA foam should definitely look up each of these methods - there are great advantages to each.
Maybe I'll add some of this on the first post (with links). Each of these have been featured here on RPF by some of our very creative and brilliant builders!
indiefilmgeek
Sr Member
As I am updating my current Hulkbuster suit, I have referenced this monster thread a few times to remind myself what worked well the last time I messed around with a foam-built Iron Man costume. It's amazing how much our craft has changed and all the cool new techniques and materials that are out there now days. It's also a comfort to know that some of the same ole 'tried and true' techniques still work with positive results!
Most importantly, I'm reminded of all the enthusiastic, instructive and encouraging comments added throughout this thread. This community rocks and I love being a part of it!
Most importantly, I'm reminded of all the enthusiastic, instructive and encouraging comments added throughout this thread. This community rocks and I love being a part of it!
indiefilmgeek
Sr Member
A few days ago, Mikey (now age 11), has provided me permission to 'adjust' his Ironman suit for his youngest sister (she's 7yrs old). She's taller than he was at 5, but much thinner. So (after dusting the whole thing off), I've started to narrow up the old foam pieces from this suit that is now ~6yrs old.
First off, it's a pretty cool thing to get my hands on something I did this long ago. I haven't really 'looked' at these pieces in half a decade and while I thought I remembered most of this build quite well, I've already started to re-discover things I had done (but since forgotten) for this build.
I've started on the legs, which had to be narrowed quite a bit... I ended up taking out strips of material on either side of the back thigh (to either side of the gold piece that runs down the middle). I ended up taking out a few inches from the top of the leg units in wedge-shaped pieces. This way I don't have to adjust the knee joint itself.
I used my new preferred method of gluing these days (Gorilla Super Glue), rather than hot glue to put these back together.
I also pull out the corroded old batteries (and destroyed battery pack) added a new one. And I was able to turn on the Arc Reactor that hasn't been on for over 5 years!
I'm in the middle of rather large build project currently, so I'll have limited time to play with 'side-project'... however, as I do work on this I'll try to take pictures and post progress here.
Thanks - and keep building!
A NOTE ON AGING EVA FOAM AND WEAR & TEAR:
Mikey didn't wear the suit more than 3 times (and those were brief). So, there wasn't a lot of damage to the pieces. But as with most foam pieces (especially costume pieces I build with 4mm thick EVA, there were several tears and minor rips near joints and edges. I had hot glued plastic re-enforcement to most of these spaces, but that just moved the damage from the pressure point to the edge of the re-enforcement. The hot glue itself had held up well (although I now use superglue so I can heat-shape the pieces with a heatgun (something you can't do easily with hot glue). Overall, I'm very impressed by how the paint, foam and rigging have survived the aging process. The foam is still flexible and the paint seems to be in pretty decent shape.
First off, it's a pretty cool thing to get my hands on something I did this long ago. I haven't really 'looked' at these pieces in half a decade and while I thought I remembered most of this build quite well, I've already started to re-discover things I had done (but since forgotten) for this build.
I've started on the legs, which had to be narrowed quite a bit... I ended up taking out strips of material on either side of the back thigh (to either side of the gold piece that runs down the middle). I ended up taking out a few inches from the top of the leg units in wedge-shaped pieces. This way I don't have to adjust the knee joint itself.
I used my new preferred method of gluing these days (Gorilla Super Glue), rather than hot glue to put these back together.
I also pull out the corroded old batteries (and destroyed battery pack) added a new one. And I was able to turn on the Arc Reactor that hasn't been on for over 5 years!
I'm in the middle of rather large build project currently, so I'll have limited time to play with 'side-project'... however, as I do work on this I'll try to take pictures and post progress here.
Thanks - and keep building!
A NOTE ON AGING EVA FOAM AND WEAR & TEAR:
Mikey didn't wear the suit more than 3 times (and those were brief). So, there wasn't a lot of damage to the pieces. But as with most foam pieces (especially costume pieces I build with 4mm thick EVA, there were several tears and minor rips near joints and edges. I had hot glued plastic re-enforcement to most of these spaces, but that just moved the damage from the pressure point to the edge of the re-enforcement. The hot glue itself had held up well (although I now use superglue so I can heat-shape the pieces with a heatgun (something you can't do easily with hot glue). Overall, I'm very impressed by how the paint, foam and rigging have survived the aging process. The foam is still flexible and the paint seems to be in pretty decent shape.
indiefilmgeek
Sr Member
I saw your post about your 8 week build! I'm impressed by how fast you've been able to put that together! Heck, Mikey's armor took nearly 12 months. lol
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