Trials and Tribulations with my Da Vinci 1.0 3D Printer

[acidicninja]

Risu, the shifting layer happens when a stepper (usually the x it seems on da vincis) isn't getting enough current. Either up the current in the firmware if you're using repetier (which you should be, btw) or slow down the print. Slic3r allows for pretty specific speed settings. Also DO NOT UPGRADE THE FIRMWARE if you're using the arduino cartridge hack. Honestly I don't think the arduino method is worth the bother though. I did it for a bit and it was so finnicky that I just installed the repetier firmware and ***** tap dancing ****** does it make a difference. You really have no idea what you're missing out on until you do it, and it's extremely simple to do. No hardware mods, no messing with programming an arduino, don't even have to make any physical contact with the printer to do it. If you guys are interested I can put up a guide here on how I did it pretty easily.

 

[Saber Concepts]

I had the same problem with the heater element connector getting very hot. I think that is what led to the element eventually going bad. Once I replaced the element and connector it works fine. I am using the latest firmware and software from the xyzprinting website. I guess since the electronic parts are now out of warranty (90 day) I can make what ever hacks I need to. The only hack I saw about cartridges was just the counter reset, is that the one people are using to bypass having to use the filament cartridge?

BTW - I am at xyz firmware version 1.2.3 and I have the software tied up slicing a part now for comparison so I will post my xyz software version later on.

 

[-VERTIGO-]

Not related directly to the Da Vinci, but has anyone tried Acetone Vapor Smoothing? Even though I'm relatively new to 3D Printing, I had a couple failed prints, one that I broke and another that never completed due to a storm and power outage. I did it in a rice cooker and I have to say I'm pretty damn pleased with the results. I went ahead and smoothed the parts from my Infinity Orb print.

 

[Fawbish]

I had a little go once using a slow cooker, but I didnt keep my model rigid and it fell. Upto that point it had worked well though. And it stank, as you'd expect. My problem currently is that I dont have a project that Im dedicated enough to a) print and then b) requires smooth finish for detailing etc.

 

[acidicninja]

i've done the acetone thing, just on my counter though. It worked well but it only really works for organic type stuff. Any fine details and edges will be blurred and smoothed away.

The arduino hack is to reset the cartridges yeah, so you can use other spools. It's honestly more work than it's worth though, with the repetier hack being so easy, plus you still don't have control of the temps as far as I could tell. I guess you're supposed to be able to also change the extruder temperature but I never could.

 

[-VERTIGO-]

It doesn't effect a .1mm resolution print all that much since you really only have to leave it in the vapor for 20-30 seconds, since it takes significantly less to smooth the lines and you do it without a loss in detail. Where a .3mm resolution print takes minutes and then looks super blurred because of the time it took to smooth the print lines. Next I want to try abrasive blasting.

As for the arduino hack, the $80 attachment that WCTEK makes is supposed to be able to control those things such as temp and material type from the arduino itself where the more basic models can't, it's just a filament resetter. Currently I've just been messing with the temps and printing above the defaults when I slice in Repeteir Host and encode the gcode to a 3w file to work in XYZWare.

 

[Fawbish]

OK. So some friends asked me to see what I could do when presented with the idea of a small non-accurate bridge replica - I assumed it was for a business stand or something. SO yesterday I modelled it, and printed it to see what I needed to change. Turns out the awkward shapes between the arches didnt print well - so Im scrapping them out of it. Had a positive review from the friend that asked when I showed her the pics, and she wants it just like that - turns out it is for her wedding tables, as part of a set theme! So now I want to make them better! Anyhow here it is. and a reference picture of the tyne bridge, which is in Newcastle UK.

 

[Fawbish]

Also. My z-axis seems to be making a bit of a weird noise and "jumping" near the top when it has to do small motions for the calibration etc. During a print it seems to be ok as the very small down movements dont seem to cause issue. The issue seems to quieten/smooth out when i apply pressure slightly to the "bolt" in the middle near the top, my assumption is that something is getting slightly caught? In normal running I notice that the "bolt" in the centre does ever so slighty move side to side when rotating, which obviously means it isnt perfectly vertical/straight. Has anyone had this issue? It has just come on suddenly.

 

[Fawbish]

So my printer is still making a strange little jump motion when it is near the top of the z axis threaded bar. It doesnt seem to affect the printing too much. This skull is printed out at 0.2mm and high density. Came out quite well.

Very concerned about the jumping/clicking near the top though. Have had a look and nothing obvious is out of alignment.

 

[Fawbish]

Self explanatory. Finally got around to printing it out. About 10 hours for the three pieces with little to no support except around the eyes - took a while to remove that support. Sliced it in repetier host, printed at 0.3mm to try and save some plastic/time. Still used 32 metres of filament.

Im playing about with acetone/ABS glue for fusing parts together

 

[Fawbish]

Thought I'd just a nice boring update - my bridge collection is growing.

I have noticed that leaving a bit more of a gap between the head and the print bed when the print starts really helps clean up the "bottom" of the print rather than the layers squashing out - common sense but I've never just tried it. It helps a lot with the tiny holes that are in the arch of the bridge.

 

[NormanF]

I just saw the following video the other day. And someone did a review of it on here.
http://youtu.be/GSKxycs3kPg

 

[Fawbish]

Yep! Saw that - absolutely ordering some!

 

[Fawbish]

finally got around to fusing the top and bottom half of this print. now to sand it a bit more, apply some of this new fangled XTC-3D and start preparing it for mold and casting

 

[Risu]

Ok guys, New problem. I replaced my heating element and it led to a series of other problems. First, the extruder head seems to sit 1-2 mm higher than it used to. I've popped it in and out several times to see if it was just in wrong, but I can't remedy the problem. I ended up just raising the table to compensate, but the extruder can't clean itself off on those scrapers anymore.

The problem that has halted production though, I'd probably a filament jam. The gears that pull the filament down make a *chunk-chunk-chunk* sound and the filament at first stopped coming out, but now it just comes out crooked and curls up on the bottom of the extruder. All the forums say to soak the extruder head overnight in acetone to clear it out, but I'm worried about soaking the temp sensor, which seems to be permanently glued in to the head. Thoughts?

 

[Risu]

Anybody have any ideas? I managed to clean the extruder, but the filament does still come out and curl just a little bit. I think the tip might be slightly damaged. The gears that feed the extruder are still not working properly. The sound persists, and is usually accompanied by the filament not extruding at all. The printer is completely dysfunctional at this point, and my boss isn't willing to get a new one if we can't sort the problem.

 

[Fawbish]

I'm afraid I don't have much to say on this one mate - it sounds like its when the head is too close to the print bed, where it makes the clunking noise as I believe the grips slip on the filament instead of feeding and thus make a noise. What I dont get is how your extruder is feeding but also not feeding? How do you mean the gears arent working properly?

 

[Risu]

It seems like the gears (the brass one attached to the feed motor and the silver one with the groove) aren't pulling the filament in. As a matter of fact, loading the filament spool now requires that I press down on the filament really hard to get the gears to grab hold at all.

I don't think it has to do with the height of the print bed, I've adjusted that multiple times and it passed right before the last time the print failed.

 

[Fawbish]

No I wasnt suggesting it was, just that the symptoms (loud noise and no extrusion) seems to happen when the head is too close to the bed on the da vinci as there is no sensor to tell it to stop extruding. Just said the symptoms sound similar, ie. there is a blockage. But if the gears arent even gripping the filament without help, perhaps it is slipping instead of pulling? ie. it is worn down or ever so slightly out of its alignment or something. But as I said, not much help on this. Hope someone has a solution.

 

[adagium]

yes, please do share with us how you did it.