Fawbish
Sr Member
The title is not meant to say that the Da Vinci is a bad printer at all, I merely meant it as a title for my coming journey into 3D printing. 
First off, figured this was the best place to put this, as most of the objects that I create and show here will be of a prop nature, and it will be nice to collect everything in one place. If that is incorrect, please place this thread where it belongs, thanks Mods.
So, I recently acquired an XYZprinting Da Vinci 1.0 3D printer - I am based in the North East of England, UK (Yorkshire). I had recently sold one of my motorcycles to start getting a handle on some financial stuff - with some of the money, I decided that I may aswell delve into a world I'd been reading a lot about, but didn't think I would enter. So I did a bit of research, came close to buying a kit, but eventually opted for the "lazy" route of buying a known, well (to a point) reviewed machine with a little less risk involved. The Da Vinci 1.0 is one of the cheaper "print out of the box" options out there on the market, and the UK purchase is overpriced compared to the US! However, I jumped in, and started learning about it. Currently printing in white ABS plastic. Most of the items below are the printed version of a Thingiverse file, which is a great site for sharing and innovation of prints. A few below I have created, and a few are from modified files that I've got to a point of being able to print.
What is immediately apparent is that the printing part of the process is a very small part of it. Crucial of course, but small. The main areas that I've gained more knowledge within is machine code, file types, 3D modeling (not necessarily the design side, but more manipulation of certain files and how to do what you want with them), using the backdoors and hacks available to enable better prints/more freedom with setting etc. I also need to start setting up for more post processing on the items, but of course I'm concentrating hard on making sure I cut out as much as that as possible with the printing itself. Most of these prints have had little to no post processing.
I will update this with more information for this specific printer if people desire. But for now, I'll leave a few images of things that I have completed so far with the printer as I begin to hone the printing. Behold many practice pieces! I'll update this thread as I go with any pieces that I think may be of interest.
PLEASE SKIP PAST THIS INFORMATION TO GO STRAIGHT TO THE IMAGES OF PRINTS IF YOU WISH.
Below is an instruction set I put together from various sources that allows the Da Vinci 1.0 printer to use third party software such as Repetier Host (and Slic3r) to slice models ready for printing, and opens up more control of the printer.
WARNING - I am not responsible for any misuse or problems that occur due to following these instructions, I am merely providing them so that someone can attempt it if they wish. I fully understood before I undertook these instructions myself that any problems that are caused within the print file could possibly damage or break my property - I urge you all to understand the same risks. That being said, I and others have had no issues with this, and just use common sense before making large changes to speeds etc.
I find that it's on a print by print basis which program is best for printing on the Da Vinci. And just to be clear, I'm still discovering a lot myself - I also don't want to be responsible for any issues you come across! However, the latest version of Repetier Host (with the latest version of Slic3r, which may not come with the native RH download) I have found that I can create quite good prints. Nothing amazing yet, but I'm getting there.
IMPORTANT: Not to put you off at all, but please bear in mind, the machine acts a little differently to how it prints with a normal xyzware sliced file. If you have changed speed settings significantly, it could damage something - I have only ever reduced speeds, I've never upped them. I've also only taken faith off people that have done this on various forums that are hidden in the deep dark world wide web. So please be careful and continue at your own risk.
When the print starts, the differences are that you no longer have a timescale when it prints. I dont mind this. The print nozzle itself will move and do its normal "calibration" routine, but then it will home back to the corner. It will come out, visit the right hand side of the bed (from the door view) and wait for heating. It will then go home again. Then, it will go directly to the print bed from the corner. So make sure all your stuff is tight and level as per normal. This is only PER print basis, and you can go straight back to using xyzware as your slicer as we arent changing anything fundamentally. only modifying a file.
The process for using is as follows.
Programs needed:
Repetier Host (with Slic3r)
Notepad++
XYZware
And the website: https://netfabb.azurewebsites.net/ which is a windows based stl file repair service. I do this as a matter of course on each stl file I use.
1. You have the stl file you wish to use in it's final form - run it through the repair tool to ensure the file is good for printing - it downloads with the _fixed on the end of the file name.
2. Open Repetier host, and import the stl file. Position and scale how you would like to.
3. Under the "Slicer" tab, click on the Configure button - it has a cog.
4. It should come up first time with a set up wizard - if it doesnt, simply go to "Help" and "Configuration Wizard".
5. These settings are the base settings for the slice, so far I have found that using: Reprap GCODE flavour [Next] 200 x 200 [Next] 0.4 Nozzle diameter [Next] 1.75mm filament diameter [Next] 215 nozzle heat [Next] 90 Bed heat. This sets up the base stuff for the gcode. You may have different preferences and get better results with other settings - I havent found my perfect settings yet!
6. A lot of these other settings are preferences, but as a base, I am using: (See attached files)
7. There are tons of settings and I havent messed about with them all yet. Please use with caution!!
8. Once you are happy with your settings for your specific STL file, you can save it as a config.
9. Go back to your RH main screen, and "Slice with Slic3r". This will produce gcode. You click on the "save" icon of the gcode once it is finished. Save this somewhere you can access easily.
10. Once you have this file, right click and "Open with" Notepad++. This is the bit where we fool da vinci into taking the file. You must paste these values onto the very top row (above your gcode):
; filename = composition.3w
; machine = daVinciF10
; material = abs
; layer_height = 0.2
; total_layers = 173
; total_filament = 0.00
; extruder = 1
(NOTE: it doesnt have to be these values, as the actual printer ignores this code. however, it doesnt ignore the fact the code is there, and xyzware needs these values to print - it doesnt change anything within the print itself). below is an example of where to post the code in on any gcode you create. you can use the same topper each time.
11. Next, click once anywhere in the code. We want to highlight all, so do a ctrl+A. Once everything is highlighted, right click. Go to "plugin commands" and then click "base 64 encode". This is what the da vinci uses as its native language to try and stop other software from printing to it directly. Once it has been encoded base 64, you will see a long line of numbers and letters. Go to "file", and "save as". Save the file as "Filename.3w" rather than "Filename.gcode".
12. Once you have this .3w file, you can simply drag and drop this file into xyzware, and press print!
The Printer itself.
Tiny Iron Man mask, no clean up.
A blue lantern ring! Again, no clean up.
A wireframe chess piece. This is a rook.
A low polygon count bulbasaur!!
Some of the low polygon gang.
A phone holder
One of the few pieces I've done something with - however all I've done is three coats of simple paint - 2 x black, 1 x gun silver. I did it very quickly and very poorly, I wanted to know what results I could get and how it would react to the untreated plastic. The answer is, other than the visual side (ie. the layers and the cross hatching) - not bad at all. Can't wait to put some time and effort into a project.
And the one I did last night, Superman bust. Which....failed. In the sense that his bloody chin fell off. And the bottom warped slightly. Which after 3 hours of printing, was irksome to say the least. *aggression* However I want to have a go at some melting/sculpting to see how the ABS takes to fine detailed fixes. Can only see what happens!
Anyway, I hope that brings some interest to some people, who, like me, are sat at a desk bored with work! Anyhow. I'll update as a I go along. I'm also open to ideas and requests of course, though I am not yet starting to offer my services, until I feel I am more proficient.
EDIT:
http://ddd.stefanomenci.com/calibrateprinter?printer_id=5135547156660224
I have just discovered this useful tool, and I will try and use it soon. I had created my own basic way of calibrating with the readings but it was only guess work. This will hopefully help me to calibrate more easily!!
Cheers!
Fawbish
First off, figured this was the best place to put this, as most of the objects that I create and show here will be of a prop nature, and it will be nice to collect everything in one place. If that is incorrect, please place this thread where it belongs, thanks Mods.
So, I recently acquired an XYZprinting Da Vinci 1.0 3D printer - I am based in the North East of England, UK (Yorkshire). I had recently sold one of my motorcycles to start getting a handle on some financial stuff - with some of the money, I decided that I may aswell delve into a world I'd been reading a lot about, but didn't think I would enter. So I did a bit of research, came close to buying a kit, but eventually opted for the "lazy" route of buying a known, well (to a point) reviewed machine with a little less risk involved. The Da Vinci 1.0 is one of the cheaper "print out of the box" options out there on the market, and the UK purchase is overpriced compared to the US! However, I jumped in, and started learning about it. Currently printing in white ABS plastic. Most of the items below are the printed version of a Thingiverse file, which is a great site for sharing and innovation of prints. A few below I have created, and a few are from modified files that I've got to a point of being able to print.
What is immediately apparent is that the printing part of the process is a very small part of it. Crucial of course, but small. The main areas that I've gained more knowledge within is machine code, file types, 3D modeling (not necessarily the design side, but more manipulation of certain files and how to do what you want with them), using the backdoors and hacks available to enable better prints/more freedom with setting etc. I also need to start setting up for more post processing on the items, but of course I'm concentrating hard on making sure I cut out as much as that as possible with the printing itself. Most of these prints have had little to no post processing.
I will update this with more information for this specific printer if people desire. But for now, I'll leave a few images of things that I have completed so far with the printer as I begin to hone the printing. Behold many practice pieces! I'll update this thread as I go with any pieces that I think may be of interest.
PLEASE SKIP PAST THIS INFORMATION TO GO STRAIGHT TO THE IMAGES OF PRINTS IF YOU WISH.
Below is an instruction set I put together from various sources that allows the Da Vinci 1.0 printer to use third party software such as Repetier Host (and Slic3r) to slice models ready for printing, and opens up more control of the printer.
WARNING - I am not responsible for any misuse or problems that occur due to following these instructions, I am merely providing them so that someone can attempt it if they wish. I fully understood before I undertook these instructions myself that any problems that are caused within the print file could possibly damage or break my property - I urge you all to understand the same risks. That being said, I and others have had no issues with this, and just use common sense before making large changes to speeds etc.
I find that it's on a print by print basis which program is best for printing on the Da Vinci. And just to be clear, I'm still discovering a lot myself - I also don't want to be responsible for any issues you come across! However, the latest version of Repetier Host (with the latest version of Slic3r, which may not come with the native RH download) I have found that I can create quite good prints. Nothing amazing yet, but I'm getting there.
IMPORTANT: Not to put you off at all, but please bear in mind, the machine acts a little differently to how it prints with a normal xyzware sliced file. If you have changed speed settings significantly, it could damage something - I have only ever reduced speeds, I've never upped them. I've also only taken faith off people that have done this on various forums that are hidden in the deep dark world wide web. So please be careful and continue at your own risk.
When the print starts, the differences are that you no longer have a timescale when it prints. I dont mind this. The print nozzle itself will move and do its normal "calibration" routine, but then it will home back to the corner. It will come out, visit the right hand side of the bed (from the door view) and wait for heating. It will then go home again. Then, it will go directly to the print bed from the corner. So make sure all your stuff is tight and level as per normal. This is only PER print basis, and you can go straight back to using xyzware as your slicer as we arent changing anything fundamentally. only modifying a file.
The process for using is as follows.
Programs needed:
Repetier Host (with Slic3r)
Notepad++
XYZware
And the website: https://netfabb.azurewebsites.net/ which is a windows based stl file repair service. I do this as a matter of course on each stl file I use.
1. You have the stl file you wish to use in it's final form - run it through the repair tool to ensure the file is good for printing - it downloads with the _fixed on the end of the file name.
2. Open Repetier host, and import the stl file. Position and scale how you would like to.
3. Under the "Slicer" tab, click on the Configure button - it has a cog.
4. It should come up first time with a set up wizard - if it doesnt, simply go to "Help" and "Configuration Wizard".
5. These settings are the base settings for the slice, so far I have found that using: Reprap GCODE flavour [Next] 200 x 200 [Next] 0.4 Nozzle diameter [Next] 1.75mm filament diameter [Next] 215 nozzle heat [Next] 90 Bed heat. This sets up the base stuff for the gcode. You may have different preferences and get better results with other settings - I havent found my perfect settings yet!
6. A lot of these other settings are preferences, but as a base, I am using: (See attached files)
7. There are tons of settings and I havent messed about with them all yet. Please use with caution!!
8. Once you are happy with your settings for your specific STL file, you can save it as a config.
9. Go back to your RH main screen, and "Slice with Slic3r". This will produce gcode. You click on the "save" icon of the gcode once it is finished. Save this somewhere you can access easily.
10. Once you have this file, right click and "Open with" Notepad++. This is the bit where we fool da vinci into taking the file. You must paste these values onto the very top row (above your gcode):
; filename = composition.3w
; machine = daVinciF10
; material = abs
; layer_height = 0.2
; total_layers = 173
; total_filament = 0.00
; extruder = 1
(NOTE: it doesnt have to be these values, as the actual printer ignores this code. however, it doesnt ignore the fact the code is there, and xyzware needs these values to print - it doesnt change anything within the print itself). below is an example of where to post the code in on any gcode you create. you can use the same topper each time.
11. Next, click once anywhere in the code. We want to highlight all, so do a ctrl+A. Once everything is highlighted, right click. Go to "plugin commands" and then click "base 64 encode". This is what the da vinci uses as its native language to try and stop other software from printing to it directly. Once it has been encoded base 64, you will see a long line of numbers and letters. Go to "file", and "save as". Save the file as "Filename.3w" rather than "Filename.gcode".
12. Once you have this .3w file, you can simply drag and drop this file into xyzware, and press print!
The Printer itself.
Tiny Iron Man mask, no clean up.
A blue lantern ring! Again, no clean up.
A wireframe chess piece. This is a rook.
A low polygon count bulbasaur!!
Some of the low polygon gang.
A phone holder
One of the few pieces I've done something with - however all I've done is three coats of simple paint - 2 x black, 1 x gun silver. I did it very quickly and very poorly, I wanted to know what results I could get and how it would react to the untreated plastic. The answer is, other than the visual side (ie. the layers and the cross hatching) - not bad at all. Can't wait to put some time and effort into a project.
And the one I did last night, Superman bust. Which....failed. In the sense that his bloody chin fell off. And the bottom warped slightly. Which after 3 hours of printing, was irksome to say the least. *aggression* However I want to have a go at some melting/sculpting to see how the ABS takes to fine detailed fixes. Can only see what happens!
Anyway, I hope that brings some interest to some people, who, like me, are sat at a desk bored with work! Anyhow. I'll update as a I go along. I'm also open to ideas and requests of course, though I am not yet starting to offer my services, until I feel I am more proficient.
EDIT:
http://ddd.stefanomenci.com/calibrateprinter?printer_id=5135547156660224
I have just discovered this useful tool, and I will try and use it soon. I had created my own basic way of calibrating with the readings but it was only guess work. This will hopefully help me to calibrate more easily!!
Cheers!
Fawbish
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