Trials and Tribulations with my Da Vinci 1.0 3D Printer

[Fawbish]

Looks great for a quick build(especially that last pic), amazing that you can go from nothing to that in half an hour.

With a bit more time and filling it could work out pretty well, a bit of dry brushing with the silver would help too.

Goodwork [emoji106]

Aye definitely. If you want me to print you out and send a few on for your own processing/painting and such, just let me know mate. (Free obviously!) If I get any better results later in the week I'll be sure to update.

Whats your opinions on the size? Obviously you will have designed it possibly with real dimensions in mind/from reference images - it seemed quite small in my hand, but then I dont remember them being huge on the back of the head either in the film. I can scale it up slightly if needed.

 

[b26354]

I picked up one of these printers last week - the white ABS that came with the machine is kind of blobby and the feed from the spool isn't smooth so it tugs on the extruder resulting is layer shifts.

I tried some third party black ABS and got some pretty decent prints - until I tried somethign a bit bigger and it peeled off the build table - obviously needs a bit higher temperature.

I bought an official black XYZ filament cart and it feeds much smother and gives cleaner prints than the white.

I think I might have to try the repetier hack so I have better contol over the temp with other filaments and access to other slicers.

At the price point this printer gives surprising quality - and has features (heated build table and enclosed build volume) that aren't found on printers twice the price. But you're not going to get the same quality that you could get from a finely tuned $2000+ makerbot or ultimaker.

The main downside is the XYZ axes aren't particularly rigid so consistency between layers isn't great. I see someone has some printed alternatives for the pillow blocks on the Z axis which may help.

 

[acidicninja]

the white filament is great actually, it just shows imperfections in the print because the shadows are so visible. The trouble with the shifty layers is actually the tabs that hold the glass bed down. Use a torx bit to loosen them, and stuff a little folded piece of paper or cardboard between the metal and the glass and that will keep it from shaking around. The repetier hack is 100% worth being able to use slic3r.

 

[-VERTIGO-]

I'm having an issue where my printer doesn't extrude on the loops, and when it finally starts laying down material for the first layer it's not sticking down at all so it just pulls through the print and I have to stop it after about a minute of printing. Any ideas?

 

[Fawbish]

I'm having an issue where my printer doesn't extrude on the loops, and when it finally starts laying down material for the first layer it's not sticking down at all so it just pulls through the print and I have to stop it after about a minute of printing. Any ideas?

Are you using the glue that came with the printer?

The print bed must be clean, and then I use a nice smooth application of the glue in the print area. You also have to make sure that your height settings on the bed are level-ish - if it is too far away or too close it wont extrude the bottom layer properly.

Describe your usual process?

I occasionally get a scenario where the printer makes a deep clicking noise that correlates with the head not extruding properly. Once it starts and the height is OK, it usually carries on ok.

There are also heat settings that could be an issue but if youre using Da Vinci native software then that shouldnt be an issue.

What kind of print?

 

[-VERTIGO-]

Yes I'm using the glue. I wash the bed after each print and dry it thoroughly, I understand the process as this is a new issue that I'm having once I loaded in a new cartridge of filament which is a 600g red ABS. Didn't have this issue with the 300g white test roll I was using. I recalibrated the bed on Sunday as it was way off, and I'm still having the issue, I think I was in the 225 range for all three points if I remember correctly.

I'm using Repetier Host and Slic3r to generate G-Code and create my settings. I push past the default temps and use 220 on the first layer down to 215 on the ones there after. The bed temp is set at 100 for the first layer and then down to 95 for the rest of the print.

I haven't heard the clicking noise from the head, but I'll listen when I try today.

As for the print it's the exterior file from this model. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:430184

 

[-VERTIGO-]

Sorry for the dub post but Mind = Blown. I need to try the red again since I'm not sure if the reason it's printing perfectly in white is because the red is a crap batch or because I increased first layer height to .3mm versus .1mm. Though I did .1mm with white before and when I switched to red I started having issues. Only testing will tell.

 

[Saber Concepts]

I had a problem with my last cartridge not sticking to the print bed no matter what I did and I have printed almost 100 parts on this printer with 8 different cartridges. I went to change the cartridge to test one of my other colors and see if it sticked anymore and now the print head will not heat up at ALL. It won't even get warm when I try to load the new cartridge. Of course it would have to break this close to Halloween with me still having parts to print for my Star Lord Costume!!! Has anyone had this problem and if so were you able to fix it?

 

[vidman]

I had a problem with my last cartridge not sticking to the print bed no matter what I did and I have printed almost 100 parts on this printer with 8 different cartridges. I went to change the cartridge to test one of my other colors and see if it sticked anymore and now the print head will not heat up at ALL. It won't even get warm when I try to load the new cartridge. Of course it would have to break this close to Halloween with me still having parts to print for my Star Lord Costume!!! Has anyone had this problem and if so were you able to fix it?

Oh Wade, come on Bro, no heat to the head, whip out the DMM and find out if it's getting juice to it, any type of fuses to check? Possibly pulled a connection off or plug?

 

[Saber Concepts]

You read my mind. LOL I checked with a multimeter and one of the heater wires has a break in it and I have to order the whole assembly to get it working again. Of course it is out of warranty too. I am waiting on a price now. Thanks for the advice, it is good to know we think alike.

Oh Wade, come on Bro, no heat to the head, whip out the DMM and find out if it's getting juice to it, any type of fuses to check? Possibly pulled a connection off or plug?

 

[Fawbish]

You read my mind. LOL I checked with a multimeter and one of the heater wires has a break in it and I have to order the whole assembly to get it working again. Of course it is out of warranty too. I am waiting on a price now. Thanks for the advice, it is good to know we think alike.

Aw man. That sucks. In the interest of getting useful information out of a crap situation, can you please post prices/location/availability once you have found the replacement? Would be useful for people to be able to have a reference. Sorry that the wire broke down - is it visible? ie. can you access both ends of the cable that failed?

Sorry for the dub post but Mind = Blown. I need to try the red again since I'm not sure if the reason it's printing perfectly in white is because the red is a crap batch or because I increased first layer height to .3mm versus .1mm. Though I did .1mm with white before and when I switched to red I started having issues. Only testing will tell.

Vertigo, I am quite sorry, I don't have any further suggestions as I have not had your issue. I am using a new 600g white at the moment after I used up the 300g "with printer" cartridge. Please let us know if you come to a solution. Is the bed definitely getting heat? Apologies for the rudimentary questions.

 

[Saber Concepts]

The warranty for the motors, and print head is only 90 days but 1 year for the rest of the printer. (the plastic box. LOL) I have printed 360 hours since June of this year and other than the cartridge error I have not had really other problems until now.

I haven't received a price from them yet but I must say that the customer service has been super friendly and helpful. I will post the price as soon as I receive it. The wire seems to be broken inside the insulation and makes and loses contacts as the printer head moves.

Now for the good news for those of you that are having problems with the "cartridge error". There is a .stl support file that you can print that goes on top of the motherboard (below where the cartridge goes) that is supposed to give more support and allow the pins in the printer to keep better contact with the pads on the bottom of the cartridge. I can't upload the .stl file from my work computer, but I will upload it and make a link tonight when I get home. Here is the video on how to install it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxDFlrjdLvQ

I am so glad that I can be the beta tester for everyone. LOL

 

[-VERTIGO-]

Aw man. That sucks. In the interest of getting useful information out of a crap situation, can you please post prices/location/availability once you have found the replacement? Would be useful for people to be able to have a reference. Sorry that the wire broke down - is it visible? ie. can you access both ends of the cable that failed?



Vertigo, I am quite sorry, I don't have any further suggestions as I have not had your issue. I am using a new 600g white at the moment after I used up the 300g "with printer" cartridge. Please let us know if you come to a solution. Is the bed definitely getting heat? Apologies for the rudimentary questions.

I'm leaning toward the issue being it doesn't like .1 for a first layer more than the filament itself. I have to reslice my Exterior Orb with a .3 first layer and see if it'll print because I did the Rim which had a .3 first layer, perfect, no problem. Went to start the exterior with a .1 first layer, and it instantly just started hating on life and not working. Will know more today when I can set up for a new print of the exterior with a .3 first layer.

 

[Saber Concepts]

Ok, here is the link for the support block .stl file. https://www.dropbox.com/s/0oqzknojt51byo6/Support block.stl?dl=0

I also got an email from xyzprinting about the price for the extruder. They want $99 plus shipping for it and they only accept checks for now since they don't have their store site up yet. That was a little more than I am wanting to pay for something that was most likely caused by them having the cable tie too tight and after 360 hours of use breaking the wire. I am going to see if I can fix it myself before I pay that much for it.

 

[vidman]

EXCELLENT (rubs hands together like Mr Burns )m once you figure out how it comes apart if you haven't already it is probably an easy fix :ninja

 

[Saber Concepts]

EXCELLENT (rubs hands together like Mr Burns )m once you figure out how it comes apart if you haven't already it is probably an easy fix :ninja

It didn't last 5 minutes after I found out it was no longer covered in the warranty before I had it all taken apart. LOL I just need to get some high temp wire. Can someone that is having the "cartridge error" problem try to print the support block and see if that fixes the problem? At least until I get mine working again. I still think it is an AWESOME printer for the price and having printed 360 hours with no major problems until now is saying a lot for a $500 printer.

Also, on the infinity orb (I will post pics later one) I was able to print one complete half and 3/4 of the other half, then it gave me the "cartridge error" and I was only able to print at most 1/8 of others before getting the error. It is not consistent. So now I almost have a whole exterior infinity orb. The good thing about it only printing 3/4 of one side is it will not roll on a flat surface now. LOL

 

[vidman]

Hey Bro, great news, an easy fix to an expensive replacement for sure.

Here's an idea about the cable brace,,, make a temporary 1 out of thick corrugated cardboard from a box or something similar and see if that'll temporarily fix the cable problem .

 

[Fawbish]

Great stuff guys, nice to see everyone getting involved. I'm glad that this hasnt put you off the da vinci so far.

I went back to mine after a while not doing much, connected up, printed, walked away. Its just a great tool (a 3d printer) to have around!

Below is an acoustic booster iphone case. Just to test how the fit was etc. The boost itself didnt do much. But it fit like a charm. A few areas on the case were not a great finish however due to the standard software.



Ignore the broken screen, I'm currently 18 months into living with it like that. Remarkably resilient!

 

[Saber Concepts]

Hey Bro, great news, an easy fix to an expensive replacement for sure.

Here's an idea about the cable brace,,, make a temporary 1 out of thick corrugated cardboard from a box or something similar and see if that'll temporarily fix the cable problem .

When I had to clean the extruder and gears (have to remove 2 cable ties) the damage had already started. I replaced them with blue painters tape so that it would not put too much strain on the wires, but as the extruder moved the wire kept getting worse and worse.

I had to hold the wire break together with both hands just to get it to heat up enough to remove the filament. I will try to repair the wires tomorrow night.

 

[Saber Concepts]

I isolated the problem down to one little part. The glow plug that slides in the brass nozzle part. It has a set screw that when you loosen it just slides out and can be very easily replaced. Now the problem is trying to get xyzprinting to sell me just the glow plug for a lot cheaper price than the whole extruder cost. The pins that are inside the glow plug broke completely off and you can't solder them back on. You have to replace the part. So now my printer is DEAD until I get the glow plug or extruder replaced, which will be NOWHERE near soon enough for me to print the rest of my parts for my Star Lord Costume.

Anyway, here is my infinity orb (or at least just over 3/4 of it) You can see the partial print makes a decent stand. LOL As you can see, I still have a little work to do to it.









- - - Updated - - -

Sorry for the double post, but here is the glow plug part I was talking about.