Magic of Myth ( MoM ) Luke RotJ Hero ( cave build ) lightsaber research, images, reference, & collaborative model builder's discussion.
- Thread starter BRRogers
- Start date
Thanks for the update. Take as long as you need. It’s going to be an awesome hilt. Look forward to seeing the prototype!Light update on the MoM hilt:
There is more GOOD news to come...
I'd be lying if I said Adam and I don't feel a bit ragged at this point...
Due to perhaps Covid or any other complications related to it we've been forced to hop vendors over the past few months along with 7Chambers.
It sucks when you have a GREAT quote and a competent machinist but they jerk you around FOR MONTHS and don't make good on your timetable. We dealt with that first and decided to drop them in favor for someone who was much more communicative.
Then with them we've found ourselves in this really ... odd ... financial negotiation to get a prototype.
Adam and I WILL NOT pull the trigger on full production until we can verify the quality of the intricacies we've specified with our machinist... yet it's been strangely difficult to cull a prototype in our negotiation for some reason. Timeline and manpower apparently for the machinist.
SO.
To the point:
Prototype is coming. Actually, a couple are.
Adam's machine drawings are so precise along with the model that we can ask for EXTREMELY high tolerances/ specs... so anyone capable with the proper tools should be able to reproduce it to that spec.
We finally managed to land on a deal for a prototype from our (now) manufacturer so we can verify the crucial components, AND we're getting a second prototype hilt machined in the UK.
The *actual* run machinist will ship the crucial components to Adam for verification between myself and him, and the UK machinist will be able to supply 7Chambers a prototype to begin some much delayed (and necessary) promo.
So, we are fingers crossed (I'm sure with all of you) that there will be some more good news and progress in the next couple weeks.
Going for full disclosure here so I hope you guys know where we are at and can bear with us a bit longer.
Thanks guys, your confidence means a great deal... helps us take a deep breath and keep pushing forward!
And if anyone is feeling less than confident about the 'MoM' project , feel free to message me. I'm an open book I'll talk you through it
Goodie2325
Active Member
Thank you for the update! Don't worry about the extra time. Gives people time to save up for this project!
Perhaps this has been mentioned before, but going over the images of the reveal PCB again, this stood out to me:
The shadow that is visible in the second image would seem to suggest that the right part of the PCB is cut off or simply not present - revealing the metal of the hero box underneath. The concave shadow in the top right of the first image shows the rounded shape of the bottom of the hero box.
Could simply be a limitation of whatever source the used for the PCB, or perhaps space left open to let in a wire to power the LED's?
Original:
The shadow that is visible in the second image would seem to suggest that the right part of the PCB is cut off or simply not present - revealing the metal of the hero box underneath. The concave shadow in the top right of the first image shows the rounded shape of the bottom of the hero box.
Could simply be a limitation of whatever source the used for the PCB, or perhaps space left open to let in a wire to power the LED's?
Original:
This is something I hinted at on my last 3D printed board. I did the board the full length for neatness, but put the zigzag line in to show where it needs to be cut if that's what you're going for. I've since wondered on whether the zigzag is actually the shadow of the different height components? I'll be going the full length with my next one too, so they can be cut to screen accurate length if desired. The original was definitely short though.
And it also makes sense. Several of the components required just for the switch functions (vintage ones) would have a fair amount of depth. The board itself sets quite high where the IC is, yet the bottom appears to drop quite low. I kind of view the SPST switch at the front as the peak of the mountain. it drops down on top of the SPDT, (like the fett rangefinder switch most likely), and then bottoms out at the back of the box where I presume it barely covers the 3V battery
I re-read it.
I’m still not sold on further depth in the current configuration.
(citing DaveP’s yuma theory I’m assuming)
but... I’m also not about to say it’s not a possibility that they filled the second tang grub if it was there (the tang depth)
I was out of action around Christmas time so that page completely passed me by! Nice references! I'm inclined to agree with BRRogers that that appears to be the pointy end of the main set screw. Correct position for it.
Definitely no further depth in current config, as you say. Totally agreed. I'm pretty convinced now though, that the second set screw was functional (back when the Yuma and ISYHCANL held blades). I've been trying to secure a short blade in the Yuma using the single screw myself, and it's near enough impossible using that one fixing point. Based on that, and looking at the footage of the skiff scene (which has quite vigorous movement), I'm in no doubt. Kind of makes sense too, otherwise what was it there for?
I have a new theory on the Yuma blade connector.
I have item (or two) inbound that might explain some things.
in other news:
FX MoM is making good progress!
Brass DSII components with the rail insert for scale.
they’re working on finishing the rest of the artist proof components (including bronze and aluminum neck, box shell, and other FX components)
I started on a Starkiller Yuma build, this afternoon. It seems to me that the “weathering” on the Yuma is a combination of paints, washes, and perhaps some sanding to approximate the look of the V2 and the V3. The black “sanded paint” on the booster, emitter, etc. is actually aluminum black, for a more resilient
weathering.
Here’s where I’m at, so far.
weathering.
Here’s where I’m at, so far.
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I’m thinking that the original weathering done to the Yuma Lightsaber resembled the same methodology seen on the DL-44 flashhiders, albeit, sanded down, or rubbed down with steel wool (or similar medium) in some areas of the hilt, such as the booster and emitter.
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Sweet mother of pearl thats fine work.
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