also WHOA the decrementing counter in that video was a HUGE surprise. I'm wondering if that was added later, or if I just didn't know how to activate that at that time. I dont' recall any kind of electronics going down to the trigger. Interesting.
Korben Dallas Blaster Reference Pictures
- Thread starter CntAllBeWinners
- Start date
CntAllBeWinners
Active Member
It doesn’t look like it’s actually activated by the trigger. It seems to just be counting down totally on its own.
You may be right. I'm scraping my memory REALLY hard to recall that detail but I'm coming up empty. That said my memory sucks so there's that.
I think no matter how you slice it, those pics adn video are great reference, and I think this is a fantastic study in the thought process that goes into replicating a prop. Are you trying to match what you think you saw on screen? Are you trying to make an in-world weapon? Are you trying to duplicate the prop in the pics? Because all of those are three different things that will yield different results.
I think no matter how you slice it, those pics adn video are great reference, and I think this is a fantastic study in the thought process that goes into replicating a prop. Are you trying to match what you think you saw on screen? Are you trying to make an in-world weapon? Are you trying to duplicate the prop in the pics? Because all of those are three different things that will yield different results.
CntAllBeWinners
Active Member
It really is fascinating. Personally I’m trying to find a balance between an in world weapon and the prop itself. Like, for me, the prop is the starting point but certain things need to be cleaner for it to feel right to me. I guess I’m aiming for the version of the prop that would be suitable for super close up shots. So not necessarily as-issued clean, but worn in ways that would be true to an in world object. As opposed to replicating the prop exactly where the damage and imperfections are due to the fabrication methods and handling of the prop during filming. It’s strange to think about because even when I was a kid I would get fixated on the “accuracy” of things and now I’m coming to realize that more often than not there isn’t any single accurate way to portray something and even when there is, it may not feel “right” anyway.
Brigandia36
Sr Member
CntAllBeWinners
Active Member
It's not particularly accurate, but I believe it shows how the slide on the actual prop would have worked.
Brigandia36
Sr Member
That's what I was thinking. Look closely the photos of propstore, some show the metal rod perfectly align with "the bolt" and on some the metal rod is going up...
I have a Sideshow Collectibles gun ( actually 2, 1 is taken apart ), along with some metal parts that were fabricated,
I purchased here, years ago. If It's any help. I also have a very nicely cast Vector gun itself, That I purchased
from MattMunson, as well. I've been trying to figure out the greeblies on the rear, as well as the metal cone shaped
piece. I wanted to replace as many metal pieces, as I can, for 1 of the gun's I own. That project just kinda stalled
I purchased here, years ago. If It's any help. I also have a very nicely cast Vector gun itself, That I purchased
from MattMunson, as well. I've been trying to figure out the greeblies on the rear, as well as the metal cone shaped
piece. I wanted to replace as many metal pieces, as I can, for 1 of the gun's I own. That project just kinda stalled
BlasterMaster
New Member
My interpretation approach is very similar. From the hero prop reference photos, I noticed there are a few parts that are a bit warped, so in my model they will be straightened out and made more like I think the gun would actually be manufactured. I'll still add weathering to the finished product, but won't try to replicate exact damage.
That would be very helpful. The reference photos have been great for setting the scale of the prop on its side, but I'm having to guess a lot more for the scale of parts width-wise. I just 3D printed the frame (grip) part of my model and it felt too small. I can't tell if it's just not wide enough or if my scale is off entirely. It would be great if you could measure a few points on your props. I'll add a few extra points of reference just to confirm the photo with the ruler is portraying accurate dimensions.
A. Upper receiver width
B. Upper receiver length
C. Slide width (is it the same width as the upper receiver? Some of the photos I've seen make it seem a little less wide)
D. Barrel inner diameter
E. Lower receiver width
F. Hand guard width
G. Grip width
H. Frame greeblies width
What a sudden interest for that blaster! 
Looking forward to see your models guys
By the way, I guess the people that didn't know that I was working on this too will have guessed that something was up from the comments and mentions of my name at the begining of that thread I have finally sourced a correct end mill for all the beveled details on the receiver! I still need to get it in hand to make sure it's the good one but it's very promising
I have been looking for almost 6 months, which is the reason why that run has been pushed back quite a bit, there was no way to do it without that end mill.
Looking forward to see your models guys By the way, I guess the people that didn't know that I was working on this too will have guessed that something was up from the comments and mentions of my name at the begining of that thread
I have finally sourced a correct end mill for all the beveled details on the receiver! I still need to get it in hand to make sure it's the good one but it's very promising I have been looking for almost 6 months, which is the reason why that run has been pushed back quite a bit, there was no way to do it without that end mill.
I'm gonna try to dig out the parts, as well as my replicas, with measurements using a digital micrometer. Just give me a couple days, getting the kid ready for school to start! Been a little busy!
Ok, so the measurements I have, are from the Hollywood Collectibles Group, issue of the Korben Dallas gun. It was stated, that it was made from the movie original gun. I took the measurements, than held them over the section being measured.
The Vector gun, was a casting from a original gun, that was made by Matt Munson. I just cleaned it up a little and painted it. You can see how it would fit, in a shell, of sorts, that we see in the movie.
I also have some pics of a broken blaster I fixed, as well as some metal parts I purchased here, some time ago
Than my collection. Any questions, just ask! These should give you plenty of reference measurements!
The Vector gun, was a casting from a original gun, that was made by Matt Munson. I just cleaned it up a little and painted it. You can see how it would fit, in a shell, of sorts, that we see in the movie.
I also have some pics of a broken blaster I fixed, as well as some metal parts I purchased here, some time ago
Than my collection. Any questions, just ask! These should give you plenty of reference measurements!
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BlasterMaster
New Member
Thank you so much! This is an invaluable resource for modeling. I was actually pretty close on the frame width (I had 40mm, mainly just to keep it an even number), but this is very helpful for the other measurements. The reference photo with the ruler of the original prop I had a feeling might be slightly off due to perspective. It's hard to tell if the ruler is actually resting on the prop, and your measurements confirm that, assuming they are the same as the hero prop. I checked a few different measurements on the left side and have enough discrepancies I'm going to rescale to match your measurements (e.g. the capsule indent I have as 60mm vs your 58mm; counter height 20mm vs your 19mm; the side disc diameter 41.6mm vs your 40.47). Looks like if I scale it around 96%, I should be close enough for those.
Your prop is an excellent piece, by the way. I'm hoping to recreate something close to it! Awesome Fifth Element display too. Might have to make a few of those other pieces too.
Like to see what you come up with!
CntAllBeWinners
Active Member
Do we know what the HCG version was cast from? I'm assuming it was cast. It's just that there are enough differences from the available hero references that it makes me wonder. Maybe they just went a little crazy when cleaning it up and modifying it for production. The missing toggle switch in particular sticks out to me.
I pretty sure ( from what I remember on the website ) that it stated, that it was cast from a screen used gun. That was back when they were still in stock. I'm sure someone else here could confirm that
NicolasBsst
New Member
Hello everybody,
Maybe the HCG was a cast from the stunt prop of the film.
Btw I have an HCG mysefl and to be honest I think it's a bit wonky. I would like to straighten the angles by sanding them and then repaint the gun.
Can you explain to me how you managed to disassemble the gun without breaking it? I managed to remove the front part of the barrelI but the top of the gun seems to be glued very hard.
Also, were did you get the metal parts ?
Well, it wasn't easy! I can't guarantee you may not break it in the process, but if your going to repaint it, than you can glue, use some glazing putty, than primer and repaint.Hello everybody,
Maybe the HCG was a cast from the stunt prop of the film.
Btw I have an HCG mysefl and to be honest I think it's a bit wonky. I would like to straighten the angles by sanding them and then repaint the gun.
Can you explain to me how you managed to disassemble the gun without breaking it? I managed to remove the front part of the barrelI but the top of the gun seems to be glued very hard.
Also, were did you get the metal parts ?
First off, you need to remove the barrel, nozzle. ( which you said you have already accomplished, but I'll just throw the info out there ) wrap the nozzle, with masking tape, as well as a set of pliers, and just turn carefully, until the glue breaks loose.
The metal square piece on the front, has 2 tabs at the bottom. Using a plastic upolosltry tool ( to prevent damage ), pry on each side, until they pop up.
The front piece, is glued in one spot, at the top. Looking at the piece ( with the blue highlight ) put masking tape on the exposed area, as well as on some pliers ( preferably pliers smooth, without teeth ) and gently pull from this spot. This is where they have applied the glue. If anything apply some uncure super glue remover. This may, or may not help! I just pulled mine right out. The rod just sits in the hole. So it will all slide out.
Now the tricky part! You will see, the highlighted piece, sticking up from the bottom section. This helps hold the 2 pieces together. What you will have to do, is very carefully, pry up and around the whole gun, between the 2 sections ( highlighted in blue. If you can, try to use a thin, hard, plastic upolosltry ( automotive) tool to do this. You can find them at Harbor Freight, and they work great, to keep from scratching, or denting a surface. If you have to, use a screwdriver covered with tape, but be careful! The center section, is going to be where they are glued together. Just be careful around the disc's, so you do not break them.
If you manage to get it apart, be careful with the wiring. I found that inside of mine, the wires were twisted together, with masking tape, wrapped around the bare ends. I soldered mine, and covered with heat shrink tubing. I recommend anyone else doing the same!
That's it! I can't guarantee you won't break it, ( it is made of a polly stone? So it can chip, and break ) but if you do, some gorilla glue, a good activated automotive glazing putty, sandpaper, and primer, can fix any screw ups, if your good with using those items!
I purchased the metal pieces, from a seller from the Junkyard, probably 5 to 8 years ago, so I have no idea who made them. At some point, I would like to replace the parts on my blaster, along with many other projects....
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