Graflex 2.0 Sabers - Show your work / Talk Electronics

I've got my Tri cree wired up and in the heat sink and the wires going through the hole. I can't get the led to sit all the way at the bottom of the heat sink because of the wires. When I place the lens on it, the top of the lens sits slightly above the edge of the heat sink. Is this a problem?


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Does anyone know how to do the red button switch? I see a lot of guys putting the switch below the housing but you need to put something in the button so it reaches the switch...any particular reason why? The button sits perfectly when the switch and the button are both inserted from the top.


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TCSS just stocked up on a lot of electronics today. Just thought I'd throw that out... :cool May or may not have picked up a ton of stuff before they run out for another month
 
jamiemp said:
Does anyone know how to do the red button switch? I see a lot of guys putting the switch below the housing but you need to put something in the button so it reaches the switch...any particular reason why? The button sits perfectly when the switch and the button are both inserted from the top.


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Click to expand...
I was wondering the same thing. I've also seen some take off two of the "prongs" on the button. Also, when wiring it up, do you attach the wire to the two remaining prongs, or to the holes?
 
jamiemp said:
Does anyone know how to do the red button switch? I see a lot of guys putting the switch below the housing but you need to put something in the button so it reaches the switch...any particular reason why? The button sits perfectly when the switch and the button are both inserted from the top.


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Click to expand...
ViperDeCobray said:
I was wondering the same thing. I've also seen some take off two of the "prongs" on the button. Also, when wiring it up, do you attach the wire to the two remaining prongs, or to the holes?
Click to expand...

http://goth-customsabers.ftl-network.com/log/diy-graflex-2-0-chassis/

Skip toward the end to see how he ran the red button.
 
I bought one of the ones from etsy and a back up so if I end up not building a second saber....I'll sell it for what i paid if someone needs one in the near future....
 
senormodeler said:
I've got my Tri cree wired up and in the heat sink and the wires going through the hole. I can't get the led to sit all the way at the bottom of the heat sink because of the wires. When I place the lens on it, the top of the lens sits slightly above the edge of the heat sink. Is this a problem?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Yes. You need the LED to sit completely flush in the heatsink and the Lens to sit flush on the LED. The LED on the heatsink is the most important part because if it's not even and securely fastened it will not transfer heat properly and you will cook you LED. Out of curiosity, what size wire did you use, and can you post a pic?

jamiemp said:
Does anyone know how to do the red button switch? I see a lot of guys putting the switch below the housing but you need to put something in the button so it reaches the switch...any particular reason why? The button sits perfectly when the switch and the button are both inserted from the top. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I've seen a lot of people use double sided 3M bonding tape. Just cut a small piece and stick it under the red cap. It will hold it to the switch just fine. You don't want to use super glue though for sure.
 
I'm asking more of the reason why builders are putting the switch UNDER the housing as opposed to in it...especially since it fits perfectly when both the switch and the bottom are seated in the hole.


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Shoot2thrill, I'm using 28 gauge wire as recommended by Darth Ryo. I have a piece of thermal tape (from TCSS) on the bottom of the Led. I have the wires soldered to the led and they're wrapped around to the bottom of he Led and thru the hole. When I push the led down, it rises back up just a bit because of the stiffness of the wires. I'll try to post a pic later.

I wonder if I heat up the wires and then push down the led if they could be made to bend and hold their form while they cool. Thoughts?


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senormodeler, try running the wires through the center hole of the led. Instead of wrapping around and going underneath the led through the heatsink hole.
 
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senormodeler said:
Shoot2thrill, I'm using 28 gauge wire as recommended by Darth Ryo. I have a piece of thermal tape (from TCSS) on the bottom of the Led. I have the wires soldered to the led and they're wrapped around to the bottom of he Led and thru the hole. When I push the led down, it rises back up just a bit because of the stiffness of the wires. I'll try to post a pic later.

I wonder if I heat up the wires and then push down the led if they could be made to bend and hold their form while they cool. Thoughts?


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Click to expand...

Darth Ryo reccomends 30AWG, 28 is reccomended by TCSS on some builds....Im sure it can work but 28 is larger then 30....

" 30awg wires or smaller mandatory:
Here are those (30awg) I use: on ebay (contact the seller directly to discuss shipping options)

Read more: http://imperialroyalarms.com/post/72458#ixzz40kY9R2kT"
 
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Assuming 3 dies, two of the LED - pads can be connected on the die and run to the Led - pad as a single wire, which would allow you to reduce 1 wire running through the hole
 
TCSS on youtube shows how to connect the LEDs with a small wire...although you wouldnt have the resistor wired to the LEDs individually....
 
I've heard differing views: some say each of the blues needs its own resistor (which was my plan); and others say It's okay if the two blues only have one resister for both of them. I don't have enough experience to know which one is right but there seems to be a stronger argument on the side of the former.


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I'm going with 2 resistors, one on each blue.
Tested the LEDS on the tri-rebel today and wow, almost blinded myself. If the tri-Cree that I ordered is even brighter, this thing is going to look absolutely awesome when done.
 
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