Graflex 2.0 Sabers - Show your work / Talk Electronics

ViperDeCobray said:
I'm going with 2 resistors, one on each blue.
Tested the LEDS on the tri-rebel today and wow, almost blinded myself. If the tri-Cree that I ordered is even brighter, this thing is going to look absolutely awesome when done.
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I agree the tri-cree is what I'm going with just for that brightness about the resistors I thing I will follow tcss on how he is doing his wiring. Thanks .....Jim
 
So can this graflex hold a 1 inch blade just wondering this is what I would like to see on mine. Thanks....Jim
 
Got the wire holes cut out and retention screw holes drilled and tapped (will post some pics later when back at home). Now I just need the retention screws for the chassis and heat sink. Does anybody recommend a good source, and what size (8/32nd screw, but unsure of length and type needed).
 
TCSS has some. Not sure if you can get them at ACE Hardware...but that's where I typically get any hardware for things like Fett building and such. So I'd check there first.


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Graflex at home
 

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I picked up one of these off Ebay today:
(Railmaster Hobbies DHB27-8 High Bass speaker 8 Ohm)
It is similar is size to the one TCSS sells.

Fett 4 Real said:
I'd like to get a bass speaker but they haven't gotten them in...anyone have any leads on them from elsewhere?


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senormodeler said:
Shoot2thrill, I'm using 28 gauge wire as recommended by Darth Ryo. I have a piece of thermal tape (from TCSS) on the bottom of the Led. I have the wires soldered to the led and they're wrapped around to the bottom of he Led and thru the hole. When I push the led down, it rises back up just a bit because of the stiffness of the wires. I'll try to post a pic later. I wonder if I heat up the wires and then push down the led if they could be made to bend and hold their form while they cool. Thoughts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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You should defintely be running the wire through the center hole of the LED. 28 awg is too thick for most of this build, especially if you're using the Goth 3D chassis and ESPECIALLY if you purchased the Remington brand 28awg wire from Amazon or eBay. The product description says 28 awg, but it is actually 26 awg (when it comes to wire size the bigger the number, the smaller the wire). The wire that Fett 4 Real provided is what I use and I recommend to everyone. I might also recommend using an acrylic thermal paste like Arctic Silver 5 (commonly used on PC CPU's) instead of the thermal pad. Those pads are kind of a bitch to use lol.

senormodeler said:
I've heard differing views: some say each of the blues needs its own resistor (which was my plan); and others say It's okay if the two blues only have one resister for both of them. I don't have enough experience to know which one is right but there seems to be a stronger argument on the side of the former. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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It is always recommended to individually resist your LED's. You can get away with using only one, but it is safer to use two. The LED resistor calculator recommends a single 1ohm 2watt resistor for a single blue die on a tri cree. If you wire two LED's to a single resistor each die is only being resisted by half the recommended amount.
 
Fett 4 Real said:
I'd like to get a bass speaker but they haven't gotten them in...anyone have any leads on them from elsewhere? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Have you considered using the premium speaker from TCSS? They're in stock and sound great. With the placement of the speaker when you use a G3D chassis you get a very large resonating chamber since the speaker sits in the middle of the hilt. The main advantage of the premium speaker is how thin it is. When you wire everything together and assemble the two pieces of the chassis, you are going to have lot of excess wire that you are going to need to hide behind the speaker.The thinner the speaker, the easier this will be. You can get a decent demonstration of the sound of the premium speaker in my original quick review:

 
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I did order one to see how it goes...but I've heard videos on both and the bass sounded really beefy?


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Fett 4 Real said:
I did order one to see how it goes...but I've heard videos on both and the bass sounded really beefy? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

It is a little deeper which might work well for a TFA build, but I'm not sure it would really make THAT much of a difference. It is more than possible to use the Bass speaker, just slightly more difficult. I believe that unless Rick changed his chassis it will have to be slightly modified to hold the bass speaker as well.
 
Got my chassis, tri-cree, resistors, and 7/8 TCSS Heat sink today. All I have left is to find a crystal that fits (had one I really like but just a bit large), and wait for my 30 Guage wire and new soldering iron (arriving tomorrow). Can't wait to start this.
 
Nice review! I won't even try to put electronics into my 2.0 since I have my other couple of Graflex's with TGS Blade Adapters, so I can't justify completely repurchasing things for a 7/8's blade and heat sink and all that.
 
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