Fett 4 Real
Sr Member
Shoot2thrills diagram has that tricree in it
Graflex 2.0 Sabers - Show your work / Talk Electronics
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ViperDeCobray
Active Member
Oh, then it must be the "diode forwarding current" then, or are both of those the same?
Are the tri-rebel and the tricee pretty much the same when it comes to that kind of stuff?
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Sandtracker
Active Member
Yes, that is forward current.
If you wire the CC LED to either the Deep Sleep pad or the Accent LED pad on the NB you really don't need a resistor since both of those pads only put out 3.3v. The FV of the LED is so close the source voltage of the pad you really have nothing to worry about. Only if you go off of the main power circuit do you really need to worry. There are really almost a dozen of different ways to wire in CC LED's. You can even do more than one LED. You can wire them to turn on as soon as the board is powered, or only when the blade turns on, you can wire in two so that the CC has FoC as well, or you can even do three LED's; One that comes on when the board is powered (Power indicator LED), one that comes on with the main blade and flickers, and one that is wired to the FoC circuit. It's really your decision.
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May I ask why you would prefer the Tri Rebel over the Tri Cree? The Tri Cree's are substantially brighter and just as easy to get through TCSS. Not to mention they just released the new 7/8" heatsinks (which are AWESOME by the way) and the required modified Tri Cree's to fit them.
Forward current and forward voltage are NOT the same thing. The FV of a Tri Cree (blue) is 3.47v, while the FC is 1000mA (1A). These are just rough averages provided by the manufacturer, but they are more than effective when choosing resistors.
ViperDeCobray
Active Member
Mainly because when I did order, the tri Cree was out of stock, and admitedly, with this being my first saber I didn't know there was a difference. Now that I see it's back, I just ordered one, with the heat sink and a few 1ohm 2w resistors (a few extra just in case of screw-ups). I'm sure I'll find another use for the Tri-Rebel.
jcroscigno
Well-Known Member
My copper heatsink should be here today- looking forward to checking it off the list of parts needed. Planning on ordering the chassis by the end of the month.
A note - if you register a new account on shapeways and leave an item in your cart, they'll email you a 10% off coupon.
A note - if you register a new account on shapeways and leave an item in your cart, they'll email you a 10% off coupon.
Fett 4 Real
Sr Member
i ordered chasis slow build so itll get here when the hilt gets here...saved some $$ that way
jcroscigno
Well-Known Member
Looks good.
Fett 4 Real
Sr Member
Ohhhhhh so no resistor for them GOT IT...that helps alot. I had pretty much drew this diagram in my head. minus the recharge port I hadnt worked that out....that was next on my to figure out list! Thanks again!
jcroscigno
Well-Known Member
Never mind (removing post about resistors for accent LED)
senormodeler
Active Member
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You can use E6000. It is a great bonding agent that is flexible, strong and works well with heat.
Fett 4 Real
Sr Member
TCSS has thermal tape I bought that to adhere mine to the heatsink
very nice heat sink!
jcroscigno
Well-Known Member
7/8" for the Graflex 2.0 or any other Korbanth saber
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Probably a dab of super glue, I'm not going to be rough with this saber so it should be fine.
JaxAndTheMoon
Sr Member
Did you turn that heat sink yourself? It looks great!
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