As far as I know all the Prequel sabers are mixed material. In each one you can clearly see the difference between the painted silver and the actual metal sections.
Dewy and Anakin Starkiller's Accurate Qui-Gon Jinn Lightsaber Design
- Thread starter Dewy
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Saberz Does your QGJ stunt have an imperfection at the bottom of the 6th grip groove from the pommel?
You can kind of see what I'm talking about in this image (see red arrow). There's also a similar blob shaped imperfection in the 9th grip groove. Their shapes are irregular and deep enough that I just don't think it's a machining mark.
You can kind of see what I'm talking about in this image (see red arrow). There's also a similar blob shaped imperfection in the 9th grip groove. Their shapes are irregular and deep enough that I just don't think it's a machining mark.
Very interesting debate here! Reproducing the photo with the ruler in 3D and seing that it doesn't align as we would think is pretty cool
Eruonen, i have no définitive answer for that but i know, having machined black delrin myself, that it can be a bit dull and slightly greyish when done. I'm not saying they used delrin, but if they did and decided to still paint it black, maybe that was the reason.
Cheers
Yeah, we talked about this in a PM thread
So to aid with this project I have been attempting to learn Rhino 3D software. Doing the perspective matching and overlays in Solidworks is incredibly time consuming, and while really good with lower distortion shots (images taken with higher focal lengths), it struggles to match the distortion of close up shots taken with wide angle lenses. As such, I've started to integrate Rhino into my workflow. I'm still learning, but pretty happy with the results I'm getting so far:
wow!
do you remember which exhibit the glass tube one was at? There are a bunch of good shots of the barbican, Luke hero and this qui gon that I dont remember saving
nice work, i can only imagine how much time you have to spend doing this...
do you remember which exhibit the glass tube one was at? There are a bunch of good shots of the barbican, Luke hero and this qui gon that I dont remember saving
Unfortunately I do not, I believe I got the pictures with the QGJ in the tube from someone here on the RPF.
That’s exactly how this saber is modeled right now and how the Obi TPM replica works if you assemble it with the straight emitter.This whole time I've been wondering how those bearing/beveled things are held on. If there is a flat part to the flange, the threaded "washer" emitter would sandwich it between the emitter and the body, am I close?
Star Wars and the power of costume exhibit
Star Wars and the Power of Costume
Exhibit featuring costumes from the entire Star Wars series of films.
flickr.com
Looks like when the Luke hero was also displayed similarly in a tube on the underlit table.
*edit*
Ah,
Star Wars and the Power of Costume
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Thank you!!!Star Wars and the power of costume exhibit
Star Wars and the Power of Costume
Exhibit featuring costumes from the entire Star Wars series of films.
And thank you as well. Freaking genius engineering right there
Hopefully from all of these overlays I've posted it's clear that whether or not the overall length of my model is perfect, the features of the model are well proportioned and accurate to the hero. To provide some additional data points for the overall length discussion, I have been focusing in on the red button area. Lately I have been playing around with scaling the model between an overall length of ~290mm up to 300mm. Essentially I proportionately shrink/enlarge everything, but the red button, the covertech, and the rubber washer under the red button.
One thing I noticed was that when you get below overall lengths of ~290mm, the rubber washer under the red button starts to overlap with the last grip groove, something that doesn't happen on the hero or resin stunt sabers. Here's what I mean:
On the hero/stunt sabers however there is always the slightest gap. I put together this collage using publicly available references:
Well yeah, but it's a rubber part that is squished down by the red button, how can I be so sure I have the model dimensions for the rubber washer correct? Well I have a correct real hydraulic port plug (red button) and I have several hundred correct real rubber panel lamp gaskets (aka rubber washers) so I took a whole bunch of measurements. Using the red button I squished down a bunch of the rubber washers and measured the diameter with calipers. The overwhelming majority of the measurements were in the 19.5mm - 20.0mm range, with 100% of the measurements in the 19.5-21.0mm range. So I updated the model of the rubber washer to be 19.5mm OD and played around with the scaling. I would scale the model to various overall lengths between 290 and 300mm as I mentioned above, I would update my overlays to get as perfect of match as I possibly could, very precisely moving the rubber washer so it lined up with the reference image I was overlaying. Then I would look straight down on it and see if it would overlap the grip groove. Even at 290mm it very slightly overlaps the groove, in fact that's the example image I posted above.
Now overall this was not a very scientific approach, I'm not going to use this method to conclude any specific overall length. This was more a qualitative analysis to help bound the problem at hand.
One thing I noticed was that when you get below overall lengths of ~290mm, the rubber washer under the red button starts to overlap with the last grip groove, something that doesn't happen on the hero or resin stunt sabers. Here's what I mean:
On the hero/stunt sabers however there is always the slightest gap. I put together this collage using publicly available references:
Well yeah, but it's a rubber part that is squished down by the red button, how can I be so sure I have the model dimensions for the rubber washer correct? Well I have a correct real hydraulic port plug (red button) and I have several hundred correct real rubber panel lamp gaskets (aka rubber washers) so I took a whole bunch of measurements. Using the red button I squished down a bunch of the rubber washers and measured the diameter with calipers. The overwhelming majority of the measurements were in the 19.5mm - 20.0mm range, with 100% of the measurements in the 19.5-21.0mm range. So I updated the model of the rubber washer to be 19.5mm OD and played around with the scaling. I would scale the model to various overall lengths between 290 and 300mm as I mentioned above, I would update my overlays to get as perfect of match as I possibly could, very precisely moving the rubber washer so it lined up with the reference image I was overlaying. Then I would look straight down on it and see if it would overlap the grip groove. Even at 290mm it very slightly overlaps the groove, in fact that's the example image I posted above.
Now overall this was not a very scientific approach, I'm not going to use this method to conclude any specific overall length. This was more a qualitative analysis to help bound the problem at hand.
One thing to note - the gap on the OTHER side of the washer (nearer the emitter) is a bit smaller on most of your reference images above. Nearly touching the edge of the button flat in some cases. That would alleviate the issue you’re describing of washer overlap even at smaller sizes.
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