bradmckelvie1
New Member
Just came across this thread and it looks absolutely incredible. I’ll definitely be keeping track of this!
DaveP's Luke RotJ V2 Research/Development Thread 2021
- Thread starter DaveP
- Start date
bradmckelvie1
New Member
Just came across this thread and it looks absolutely incredible. I’ll definitely be keeping track of this
*Update*
Hi everyone. As promised, here is an update on some of the research and development behind this project and the latest changes to the design.
Parts:
All the parts have now had a final round of accuracy checks applied to them. I especially wanted to focus on the pommel and ensure that the size and shape of the cubes is bang on and that the model works across at least two different references.
Each pommel cube is unique in size and shape, as are the widths of each groove and the angle of the sloping sides.
I wasn't able to get a video of this process unfortunately. The software I use for screen capture creates huge files which have to be compressed later, and it takes so long setting up these cameras that the video would just be too long and take up too much space. I can spend literally hours agonising over getting the cameras set up for these overlays, with tiny little adjustments in camera position/distance/FOV. It's just not really suitable for a video demonstration I'm afraid. Sorry about that.
I have altered the nipple again too slightly. I’ve moved the final step down to expose the set screws. Following a discussion with thd9791 regarding the emitter, we both agree that you can definitely see them in this reference shot:
Both screws can be seen in the gap opposite one another (top and bottom). Just in case you were in any doubt, this is exactly where they should be based on the dents in the emitter (when cross-referenced with other images).
I’ve kept the widest step for the purposes of keeping everything centred, but moved it down, so as to expose the screws in the gap around the nipple.
Blade:
Over the course of the past week or so, I’ve had the ANH motor kit up and running in my (very nearly finished) Starkiller V2. The motor worked exactly as I’d planned (although I didn’t bother to wire the switch up as there is one on the battery holder).
I also mocked a blade up to test, and as you can see, my attempt at getting the bore centred failed spectacularly!
Luckily, this won’t be an issue on the actual run, as I have a professional wood turner making the blades. My attempt was drilled using a hand drill. I did intend on setting up a dowelling table for boring the blades myself, but this one was done by eye as a quick/dirty test. I’m really very pleased that I’ve managed to find someone to take this particular job off my hands, as they’ll now be made using the proper equipment and methods, which will eliminate that awful wobble!
I did some research in to the length and thickness of the blade too and found that 2D photogrammetry was not going to be accurate enough, as there are no suitable photos that have the blade running perpendicular to the camera. This makes determining an accurate measurement very difficult using old-school techniques.
With that in mind, I built up a simple 3D scene with a cylinder set to the height of Sir Alec Guinness (178cm). After scaling the scene to the reference photo and adjusting the perspective , I positioned the correctly scaled hilt within the scene, I was then able to extend a 3D blade out from the emitter and take a measurement from it. I was also able to determine the exact taper using this method which is great!
Emitter Bending Jig:
I’m very pleased to announce that the jig for bending the emitter plates has arrived! And it works!
I tested it out on my Anakin Starkiller Emitter and it worked better than I could have hoped for. I’m really pleased with the results.
I'm looking forward to sharing the finished build soon!
Anyway, I just thought I'd take a short break from organising things for the run, to share a little bit of what's been going on behind the scenes this week (as promised).
Thanks for looking everyone and MTFBWY!
Dave
Hi everyone. As promised, here is an update on some of the research and development behind this project and the latest changes to the design.
Parts:
All the parts have now had a final round of accuracy checks applied to them. I especially wanted to focus on the pommel and ensure that the size and shape of the cubes is bang on and that the model works across at least two different references.
Each pommel cube is unique in size and shape, as are the widths of each groove and the angle of the sloping sides.
I wasn't able to get a video of this process unfortunately. The software I use for screen capture creates huge files which have to be compressed later, and it takes so long setting up these cameras that the video would just be too long and take up too much space. I can spend literally hours agonising over getting the cameras set up for these overlays, with tiny little adjustments in camera position/distance/FOV. It's just not really suitable for a video demonstration I'm afraid. Sorry about that.
I have altered the nipple again too slightly. I’ve moved the final step down to expose the set screws. Following a discussion with thd9791 regarding the emitter, we both agree that you can definitely see them in this reference shot:
Both screws can be seen in the gap opposite one another (top and bottom). Just in case you were in any doubt, this is exactly where they should be based on the dents in the emitter (when cross-referenced with other images).
I’ve kept the widest step for the purposes of keeping everything centred, but moved it down, so as to expose the screws in the gap around the nipple.
Blade:
Over the course of the past week or so, I’ve had the ANH motor kit up and running in my (very nearly finished) Starkiller V2. The motor worked exactly as I’d planned (although I didn’t bother to wire the switch up as there is one on the battery holder).
I also mocked a blade up to test, and as you can see, my attempt at getting the bore centred failed spectacularly!
Luckily, this won’t be an issue on the actual run, as I have a professional wood turner making the blades. My attempt was drilled using a hand drill. I did intend on setting up a dowelling table for boring the blades myself, but this one was done by eye as a quick/dirty test. I’m really very pleased that I’ve managed to find someone to take this particular job off my hands, as they’ll now be made using the proper equipment and methods, which will eliminate that awful wobble!
I did some research in to the length and thickness of the blade too and found that 2D photogrammetry was not going to be accurate enough, as there are no suitable photos that have the blade running perpendicular to the camera. This makes determining an accurate measurement very difficult using old-school techniques.
With that in mind, I built up a simple 3D scene with a cylinder set to the height of Sir Alec Guinness (178cm). After scaling the scene to the reference photo and adjusting the perspective , I positioned the correctly scaled hilt within the scene, I was then able to extend a 3D blade out from the emitter and take a measurement from it. I was also able to determine the exact taper using this method which is great!
Emitter Bending Jig:
I’m very pleased to announce that the jig for bending the emitter plates has arrived! And it works!
I tested it out on my Anakin Starkiller Emitter and it worked better than I could have hoped for. I’m really pleased with the results.
I'm looking forward to sharing the finished build soon!
Anyway, I just thought I'd take a short break from organising things for the run, to share a little bit of what's been going on behind the scenes this week (as promised).
Thanks for looking everyone and MTFBWY!
Dave
bradmckelvie1
New Member
Looks great
Simply incredible. The attention to detail is mind boggling and I’m privileged to be a part of this run.
Love the emitter jig! That in itself is a work of art.
Do you use it in a press or pound it?
Do you use it in a press or pound it?
Gerard2567
Active Member
Bahaha, I thought that might be the case on the original v2.
I remember looking at images on the v3 and seeing the unequal pommel cube gaps and widths but felt like if I mentioned it, it would probably become an extremely unpopular opinion.
I mean, remember how long it took people to admit the ESB saber didn't have rivets in the grips (Even though there are still deniers) and that the rings in the v2 were unevenly spaced? xD
Kermit3001
New Member
Yes! I've been looking at every single image in this thread and trying to figure it out. That's definitely how it looks to my eye. I think that most all of the replica V2's just use black on the entire paint scheme. Very few differentiate the more brown/dark gold color of the neck in favor of black.
I have been wondering for some time now, because of the unique ring structure toward the bottom, is the V3 a resin copy of the V2??
Gerard2567
Active Member
The v3 and v2 are essentially twins but not quite. The v3 has a resin copy used for the r2-d2 launch in ROTJ.
Which unique ring structure are you talking about may i ask?
I know that the v3 pommel is 2 separate pieces, with the buttom piece that has been misaligned where as the v2 is a one piece pommel.
Edited with picture*
Last edited:
Gerard2567
Active Member
Could you elaborate who you're referring to? *Edit* Thanks
Take (Heavy) Alec Guinness’ real partsMK1
v
Recreated and simplified by lathed wood master buck
(in Gus Lopez’ possession)
v
Put into 2 part sand cast or similar
v
Pulled multiple foundry metal castings
(V2 / V3 and others)
- V2 was cleaned up healthily on metal lathe… almost all seam lines removed.
- V3 had minimal cleanup with visible seam offsets
V3 was reCast in non-metal for stunt work
--> V3 cast was machinist basis for yuma
That’s what we know for sure so far- but they almost are guaranteed to have had extra parts and maybe even another full stunt version or two available with the metal parts.
v
Recreated and simplified by lathed wood master buck
(in Gus Lopez’ possession)
v
Put into 2 part sand cast or similar
v
Pulled multiple foundry metal castings
(V2 / V3 and others)
- V2 was cleaned up healthily on metal lathe… almost all seam lines removed.
- V3 had minimal cleanup with visible seam offsets
V3 was reCast in non-metal for stunt work
--> V3 cast was machinist basis for yuma
That’s what we know for sure so far- but they almost are guaranteed to have had extra parts and maybe even another full stunt version or two available with the metal parts.
Kermit3001
New Member
The ring structure I am referring to can be seen in these two photos. The bottom set of rings is closer together than the rings above it. This is why I was asking if the V3 was a resin casting of the V2 or if it was another metal casting made from the same wooden buck that the V2 originated from
