Limited Run Darth Maul TPM screen accurate lightsaber prop

I finally finished mine after a few setbacks. I had to recut the rod because I left too much length, and those O rings are a bitch despite the helpful hints provided in this thread. I'm going to leave it alone for now before some light weathering and probably get a Covertec knob as well. Once again thank you Dan! This is one helluva saber!
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My kit just arrived, cant wait to get started! Crazy to finally have something accurate, 20 years later from dueling with that Hasbro toy as a teenager :p
 
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WOW!

Mine arrived today and I am absolutely stunned. For the price these were and what you got for the money is amazing. This has to be the best value item I have ever bought in over 15 years of prop collecting. I owned MR Mauls back in 2007 but this is just as good if not better. I think the appearance and detailing is so lifelike its stunning.

Dan,

You are a credit to the prop community bud. I cannot wait to see what you come with with next ( gotta be Obi and QGJ...) but im in!!

Haliwax,

Your videos were so helpful putting them together, credit to to you bud.

By the way, I managed to buy a threaded rod here in the UK for £4.99 shipped on Ebay and it is perfect. If anyone else needs one I can send the link.

Lastly, ill photo mine tomorrow as Im whacked out after work but someone needs to get on the cap for the half battle damaged saber. Ive got a few things rolling around in my head, but if someone's gonna do a run - im in!!

Lee
 
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Easiest kit I’ve ever finished. I went ahead and did the button color repaint and painted the inner washers and emitter inserts and still finished in in about an hour. Gorgeous work Dan.

Wow great job on the buttons!!! I was fine with them being a little darker before but now seeing this more accurate red makes a huge difference. I didn't want to mess with this already gorgeous hilt but I think it might worth doing. We'll see. Thanks for posting this, Kylash!
 
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There were a bunch of these painted for production and the color of the reds and the weathering pattern varries quite a bit on original hilts. The color of the buttons on my hilts is pretty close to the color that efx went with. But, the brighter ones look quite pretty as well
 
There were a bunch of these painted for production and the color of the reds and the weathering pattern varries quite a bit on original hilts. The color of the buttons on my hilts is pretty close to the color that efx went with. But, the brighter ones look quite pretty as well

Darker, lighter, brighter, accurate, not accurate. This thing is awesome any which way. Thanks again, Dan.

Edit: Looking at it again right now, I do like the darker red actually and if it's accurate to a production prop as well, then sweet! But the way the brighter red pops is so nice. Either way though I'm so happy to have this hilt.
 
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The brighter red is what appears in the reference photos seen in the VISUAL DICTIONARY and whatnot, so that’s what I went with. Just so used to seeing that red pop, y’know? Compared to my blanking cap replica from Roman’s, the repaint is a very close match to an actual anodized red button.
 
Can someone please let me know the diameter of the saber in the middle as I forgot to take it last night and im going to see what we have at work for a potential battle damaged end :)

TIA!!
 
I don’t think it would be hard to print or machine a battle-damaged cap piece which plugs into the center hole and sits flush against the end of the saber. The center hole in the hilt might have to be widened a bit to allow such a piece to fit properly, but that wouldn’t be hard.
 
Received mine yesterday and all i can say is that it’s so freaking awesome! Great job Dan! Now only waiting on the threaded rod so i can make it complete!
 
I'm thinking of just using Loctite to glue a covertech in place, without any drilling (risk weakening the resin structure). I don't intend to actually wear the saber anyway so the covertech is for prop presentation only. I just don't like the idea of drilling into resin, not one bit. Any thoughts about superglue for the covertech?
 
I'm thinking of just using Loctite to glue a covertech in place, without any drilling (risk weakening the resin structure). I don't intend to actually wear the saber anyway so the covertech is for prop presentation only. I just don't like the idea of drilling into resin, not one bit. Any thoughts about superglue for the covertech?
I would go ahead and drill the hole why not get the screw and a drill bit just a bit bigger than the screw drill the hole but a bit of tape on the saber first so you can mark the hole on the tape there drill the hole then use a bit of glue in the hole after you have taken the tape off of the saber first. then put the screw in the covertech and then in to the hole on the saber don't use to much glue in the hole. that one way of doing it. but when I get mine I will drill the hole and screw the screw in to the hole and covertech as long as you use a drill bit the same size as the screw it will not crack its only when people use as small bit and a large screw and depth got to be right as well. iam also going to do a one that will come in half as well so itcan be display as a full size and can also come apart in the mid have all ready got h bit to do it and the bar is on its was from the good old usa and many saber are on there way as well. cant wait for them to come
 
I had no issues with drilling the resin. I just pot some epoxy on the screw, put the screw/covertec in the hole, and let it sit for an hour.
 
This particular resin is really tough stuff - it should take a tap well. And if you don't have a tap set you could do what darth2518 suggested and drill out the Covertec hole with a bit that's just larger than the screw thread outer diameter, and just glue it in place. Be sure to use something like a small drill bit by hand to mark out a starting divot so that the actual drill bit won't travel when you apply pressure.

I just worry that without that reinforcement a flat Covertec glued only to the round outside will snap off with the first bump it takes - superglue is not good for twisting loads like that.
 

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