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Those washers look great!! I think that’s what I’m going to do!
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Oooo, I like this idea! If you do a run, I'd definitely be interested.
I like that as well!! Friggin usps has lost my covertec’s.....
Ethan, do you happen to have a parts list? I would like to copy everything you just said, add the parts you used and include this in the tutorial. “Ethan’s European guide”SO I received mine today (I'm in France and it took some time),
I managed to tap the ends in M10, I wouldn't say it's easy as taping something that long by hand is quite hard but it's doable and I managed to assemble the saber with an M10 rod that I had lying around in my shop. So zero additional money spent for that, definitelly a cheap saber
So, I absolutelly don't recomend that if you don't have taping experience and don't feel confortable with that, you can definitelly ruin your saber that way, but if you are experienced, this is the cheap way to go for european people that didn't find a 3/8 rod.
Please do not come back to me or to Dan if you mess up your saber doing that!
now, once assembled, this thing is totally awesome! it's heavier than an aluminium saber and it looks awesome! I still have to work on weathering my washers and I have to agree that the color of the red buttons is not great, but I repeat, this thing is awesome and I'm very glad I got on that run even though I already have an aluminium version of that saber!
Hey mate, well I just used a metric tapping set that I have, any tap in M10 with a handle will do, but I repeat, this is quite hard to do by hand, the piece was probably tapped with a machine initially, taping an aluminium tube of that length in M10 is no easy task by hand.Ethan, do you happen to have a parts list? I would like to copy everything you just said, add the parts you used and include this in the tutorial. “Ethan’s European guide”
Mind if I copy this post and throw it in the tutorial?Hey mate, well I just used a metric tapping set that I have, any tap in M10 with a handle will do, but I repeat, this is quite hard to do by hand, the piece was probably tapped with a machine initially, taping an aluminium tube of that length in M10 is no easy task by hand.
I used a pair of pliers to hold the tube while tapping because you need to hold it with quite some force.
The 3/8 and M10 are pretty close, I couldn't see a difference after tapping was finished, it didn't ruin the threads so the pitch must be quite similar.
The M10 rod is a tiny bit larger than a 3/8 rod but it will fit inside the resin halves. One of mine was tighter and I used Halliwax great tip to put the rod on a drill to screw the rod inside the resin half, this was super fast and easy that way and the resin half is well secured.
There is really nothing different with the rest of the assembly, just do that if you feel super confident about rethreading a 3/8 thread to an M10, this is not something you want to try if you never used a tap set.
Hi the oring I have used will stretch fine over the emitter and the knobs as well there will all so fit the efx saber as well as I did a set for someone that had both saber and he was over the moon with them. on the mr saber all the orings are the same apart from the mid one that is a little smaller then the others but I cant seem to find that size but it does not matter as using all the same size you cant tell the diff when there are all on the saber .let me no if you want some if not I let you no the size of them. you can put them on the master replicas saber with out taken the saber to bits and the efx one will pass over the emitters and knobs as well. thanks for looking nev