Thanks Tom. Very nice of you to say so. Much appreciated.
I managed to get my Hero build finished today!
Here's how the PCB ended up looking:
All painted using a variety of Vallejo Air acrylics.
I also took a leaf out of Hylo133 's book and painted the edge of my SlothFurness card! It hadn't even occurred to me to do that before! Such a little thing, but it makes a huge difference!
I also have a couple of BRRogers 's authentic, vintage cards which I highly recommend too if you're wanting to go fully screen accurate! Link HERE.
Rails and buttons are all fully attached with JB Weld. That stuff is amazing! I chose to sacrifice a couple of cheap miniature painting brushes to prevent any unwanted accidents. I wasn't sure if the bristles would be strong enough, but it worked a treat!
Took a couple of beauty shots outside now that it's finished! The difference a bit of natural light makes is unbelievable! It looks like a different prop! It doesn't look this shiny indoors, as you can see on other images. Certainly looks pretty though here!
I'm busy getting things ready for the second run at the moment, but I would love to return to this soon to attempt something like Poikilotherm 's flashing lights setup! I'll need to brush up on my nonexistent electrical skills first though!
Here's how the PCB ended up looking:
All painted using a variety of Vallejo Air acrylics.
I also took a leaf out of Hylo133 's book and painted the edge of my SlothFurness card! It hadn't even occurred to me to do that before! Such a little thing, but it makes a huge difference!
I also have a couple of BRRogers 's authentic, vintage cards which I highly recommend too if you're wanting to go fully screen accurate! Link HERE.
Rails and buttons are all fully attached with JB Weld. That stuff is amazing! I chose to sacrifice a couple of cheap miniature painting brushes to prevent any unwanted accidents. I wasn't sure if the bristles would be strong enough, but it worked a treat!
Took a couple of beauty shots outside now that it's finished! The difference a bit of natural light makes is unbelievable! It looks like a different prop! It doesn't look this shiny indoors, as you can see on other images. Certainly looks pretty though here!
I'm busy getting things ready for the second run at the moment, but I would love to return to this soon to attempt something like Poikilotherm 's flashing lights setup! I'll need to brush up on my nonexistent electrical skills first though!
I know what you mean! It wasn't the easiest thing to paint! I don't have the steadiest of hands either!Awesome pictures Dave!
I still get nightmares thinking about painting the PCB.
xwingercrash
Active Member
Wow! [emoji44]
For the second run of these I'm hoping to have the PCBs manufactured from real components to match the original prop. Before I decided to do this, I found myself looking for cheap boards that at least resembled the real thing. I really wanted to find something that had the 10mm microcontroller if possible. Well, I ordered one of these the other day, and it arrived today:
It's by no means perfect, and it wasn't possible to position the controller correctly due to it being smack bang in the middle of the board, but it didn't turn out too bad.
The arrangement of components was slightly different to that on the picture, but it worked out ok. There were a few other, more expensive options that were a little bit bigger and would have allowed me to get the controller positioned correctly, but they were in the £30 region. This one was £12.
I was planning on adding the blue capacitor and a few other bits, but it's looking like I'll be having some screen accurate replicas manufactured now, so I guess this one will end up sidelined. Thought I'd see how it looked though.
Might be an option for anyone who doesn't want to wait for the ones I'm having made?
It's by no means perfect, and it wasn't possible to position the controller correctly due to it being smack bang in the middle of the board, but it didn't turn out too bad.
The arrangement of components was slightly different to that on the picture, but it worked out ok. There were a few other, more expensive options that were a little bit bigger and would have allowed me to get the controller positioned correctly, but they were in the £30 region. This one was £12.
I was planning on adding the blue capacitor and a few other bits, but it's looking like I'll be having some screen accurate replicas manufactured now, so I guess this one will end up sidelined. Thought I'd see how it looked though.
Might be an option for anyone who doesn't want to wait for the ones I'm having made?
Did a little work on the blade for my Yuma. I posted a bit of research I did on this over on the OT Stunt Blade Research Thread. Based on this I got myself a 1/2 inch fiberglass tube (tent pole) and used the metal connecter section to fashion a shaft collar.
I used a section of 1/4 inch steel for the tang. This is narrower than the opening of the Yuma emitter which I believe to be accurate (based on the blade appearing to be offset).
I then wrapped the whole thing in electrical tape:
Next step is to drill the emitter to make the second fixing point functional (as I believe it was)...
I used a section of 1/4 inch steel for the tang. This is narrower than the opening of the Yuma emitter which I believe to be accurate (based on the blade appearing to be offset).
I then wrapped the whole thing in electrical tape:
Next step is to drill the emitter to make the second fixing point functional (as I believe it was)...
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Very nice. Is that a resin print?
I managed to get my Hero build finished today!
Here's how the PCB ended up looking:
View attachment 1332870View attachment 1332874
All painted using a variety of Vallejo Air acrylics.
I also took a leaf out of Hylo133 's book and painted the edge of my SlothFurness card! It hadn't even occurred to me to do that before! Such a little thing, but it makes a huge difference!
View attachment 1332873
I also have a couple of BRRogers 's authentic, vintage cards which I highly recommend too if you're wanting to go fully screen accurate! Link HERE.
Rails and buttons are all fully attached with JB Weld. That stuff is amazing! I chose to sacrifice a couple of cheap miniature painting brushes to prevent any unwanted accidents. I wasn't sure if the bristles would be strong enough, but it worked a treat!
Took a couple of beauty shots outside now that it's finished! The difference a bit of natural light makes is unbelievable! It looks like a different prop! It doesn't look this shiny indoors, as you can see on other images. Certainly looks pretty though here!
View attachment 1332871View attachment 1332872
I'm busy getting things ready for the second run at the moment, but I would love to return to this soon to attempt something like Poikilotherm 's flashing lights setup! I'll need to brush up on my nonexistent electrical skills first though!
Thanks
Yeah, they were 3D printed for the first run, which didn't turn out too bad. I'm having screen accurate real ones made for the second run though, so should just take it to that next level hopefully.
And the prize for laziest "wiring" set-up goes to....
Just messing around!
On a serious note though, I love how the LED shines through that big ugly gap (now with new fatter, more screen accurate rails).
I actually like how it shines through the board too, personally.
This was just me being impatient and wanting to see those triangles lit up! I've got all the parts now to get the proper, dual switch set up wired up, but haven't got around to soldering it all together yet.
I actually like how the different frequencies on the LEDs make a random pattern though to be honest. I know it's not cannon, but I'm thinking for display purposes, it would be nice to have both triangles flashing away.
Just messing around!
On a serious note though, I love how the LED shines through that big ugly gap (now with new fatter, more screen accurate rails).
I actually like how it shines through the board too, personally.
This was just me being impatient and wanting to see those triangles lit up! I've got all the parts now to get the proper, dual switch set up wired up, but haven't got around to soldering it all together yet.
I actually like how the different frequencies on the LEDs make a random pattern though to be honest. I know it's not cannon, but I'm thinking for display purposes, it would be nice to have both triangles flashing away.
Haha, Thanks Thom.
I have got it drilled, yeah. I just haven't ordered the screws yet!
The ones I supplied with my last run were just for show, so they were actually a little short. I'm going to be ordering the screws tomorrow for the latest run, which will be completely functional. Can't wait to get that blade fastened in!!I think the tape *could* be wrong though. I've noticed that the diagonal lines on the blade (which I thought were evidence of it having been wrapped) are present on the hilt too, so are probably a digital artefact. That doesn't mean that it wasn't wrapped. It's just not proof that it was.
I actually prefer the look of it without the tape, so I think I'm going to remove it.
Finally made a little progress on the wiring for my Hero control box! The length of the wires might have to be adjusted. Just a practice run to check that I have it set up right. The battery holder and switches will be attached to the underside of the reveal board.
GhostbusterDan
Sr Member
Wonderful! - Is there a way of having it so that the LEDs cycle in sequence?
Moreover, would you make and sell them?
Its actually a lot easier to get them going in sequence. If you don't mind them blinking randomly, you'd just need to wire them up in sequence to the battery with a single switch. If you check out the video a bit higher up you'll see what I mean. Thats just two LEDs slipped on to a battery. I quite like the random flashing. There is a way to get them to Flash in sequence, but it needs a few more components (and non flashing LEDs)
In appreciation of the clean soldering at this scale!Similar threads
