Risingsunn
New Member
DOH! I see it.
Nerf Gun Props? YES!
- Thread starter JohnsonArms
- Start date
Risingsunn
New Member
Good Morning!
Day 4 of Risingsunn’s blasters shows off one of my favorite creations.
Nerf Product: Centurion rifle/ Cyclone Shock pistol
Accessories: Generic ebay Nerf Scope ($10)
Generic ebay metal bipod ($14)
Color pallet: Flat black vinyl dye rattlecan
Deep forest green camo rattlecan
Army green camo rattlecan
Khaki camo rattlecan
Satin Nickle rattlecan
Inspired by: NA/Original concept (or at least didn't see it anywhere else)
The Centurion rifle is an AWESOME looking sniper rifle that really needs nothing added to it besides a better paint job and a couple of more realistic accessories.
Rust-oleum offers a nice set of camouflage colors and I was very interested in trying them out. I decided to try a variation on of the scale paint job I did on the Demolisher. Turns out, it makes a great camo pattern.
The Nerf logo has been removed completely on both but the Centurion logo is there, just very well camouflaged.
The MEGA logo on the pistol though was larger than most Nerf logos and I did not want to risk putting a hole in the side to remove it.
Hope you enjoy and have a good day!
Day 4 of Risingsunn’s blasters shows off one of my favorite creations.
Nerf Product: Centurion rifle/ Cyclone Shock pistol
Accessories: Generic ebay Nerf Scope ($10)
Generic ebay metal bipod ($14)
Color pallet: Flat black vinyl dye rattlecan
Deep forest green camo rattlecan
Army green camo rattlecan
Khaki camo rattlecan
Satin Nickle rattlecan
Inspired by: NA/Original concept (or at least didn't see it anywhere else)
The Centurion rifle is an AWESOME looking sniper rifle that really needs nothing added to it besides a better paint job and a couple of more realistic accessories.
Rust-oleum offers a nice set of camouflage colors and I was very interested in trying them out. I decided to try a variation on of the scale paint job I did on the Demolisher. Turns out, it makes a great camo pattern.
The Nerf logo has been removed completely on both but the Centurion logo is there, just very well camouflaged.
The MEGA logo on the pistol though was larger than most Nerf logos and I did not want to risk putting a hole in the side to remove it.Hope you enjoy and have a good day!
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Risingsunn
New Member
Question: Looking at the last picture I posted, I am noticing that the screw holes really hinder the authentic look of the blasters. What do you guys use to cover or hide screw holes like that? Thanks
Josh
Josh
DFC Props
Active Member
This is incredible! I absolutely love ray guns and you really pulled this one off well. Interesting to see it in military colors... and those lights really bring the whole thing together. Well done.
Hey Josh,
First off... you've done some really nice paint jobs and custom blasters. They look amazing.
I use Bondo (like a spackle... I'm sure you know what it is
) to fill the screws holes and then sand it flush once it's hardened. Of course you can no longer access the screws if you wanted to take the gun apart, but that's what I usually do for my props with screw holes. I usually am more concerned with the aesthetics than the functionality so it doesn't really bother me. You could use larger Hex screws with foam or tape wrapped around the threaded rod to friction fit into the hole... probably not a great idea, but maybe a solution?Anyway, great work on all the projects you've shared so far.
Thanks,
Dane
Risingsunn
New Member
Happy Labor Day all!
Nerf Product: Rapidfire
Accessories: Generic ebay red dot scope ($10)
Generic ebay metal bipod ($14)
¾ PVC
Nerf Dracogen Flash-Hider by Z0r4n Nerf Dracogen Flash-Hider by Z0r4n
Fore Grip by keizi666 Fore Grip and Stock Adapter for USP(electric) Tokyo MARUI by keizi666
G36 Picatinny Rail by Stinjin G36 Picatinny Rail (3screws) by Stinjin
Color pallet:
Flat black rattlecan
Deep forest green camo rattlecan
Army green camo rattlecan
Satin Nickel rattlecan
Gold paint pen
Silver paint Sharpy
Black Sharpy
Inspired by: Unknown author (link found on google images but cannot find original designer)
This design was meant to be a Nerf version of a military light machine gun, Since I now had my Creality Ender 3 3D printer I wanted to start using some of the designs I found on Thingiverse.
Since I intended this to be a functional Nerf blater, I left a clear circle on the outside of the drum mag so that I could still see how many darts were still inside. Its a minor compromise between form and function.
I also removed the top handle/rail/sight with a grinder in favor of a smaller profile picatinny rail.
Now that I am looking more at these pictures, I REALLY should have gotten rid of the Nerf logo on this one, perhaps I will one of these days.
Enjoy!
Nerf Product: Rapidfire
Accessories: Generic ebay red dot scope ($10)
Generic ebay metal bipod ($14)
¾ PVC
Nerf Dracogen Flash-Hider by Z0r4n Nerf Dracogen Flash-Hider by Z0r4n
Fore Grip by keizi666 Fore Grip and Stock Adapter for USP(electric) Tokyo MARUI by keizi666
G36 Picatinny Rail by Stinjin G36 Picatinny Rail (3screws) by Stinjin
Color pallet:
Flat black rattlecan
Deep forest green camo rattlecan
Army green camo rattlecan
Satin Nickel rattlecan
Gold paint pen
Silver paint Sharpy
Black Sharpy
Inspired by: Unknown author (link found on google images but cannot find original designer)
This design was meant to be a Nerf version of a military light machine gun, Since I now had my Creality Ender 3 3D printer I wanted to start using some of the designs I found on Thingiverse.
Since I intended this to be a functional Nerf blater, I left a clear circle on the outside of the drum mag so that I could still see how many darts were still inside. Its a minor compromise between form and function.
I also removed the top handle/rail/sight with a grinder in favor of a smaller profile picatinny rail.
Now that I am looking more at these pictures, I REALLY should have gotten rid of the Nerf logo on this one, perhaps I will one of these days.
Enjoy!
Attachments
Risingsunn
New Member
This next blaster is the most radical departure from the original design and incorporates the most 3D printed items I have done.
Nerf Product: Ryven
Accessories: 3D printed kit, Nerf Rayven "Laser Shark” body by BlasterRevolution (note: I printed the parts from the files purchased from his Etsy site.)
Nerf Muzzle break #22 by em_jay
NERF Vortex Nitron Tactical Scope ($10)
Color pallet: Flat black rattlecan
Flat white rattlecan
Hex stencil by JackRabbitNerfer
Inspired by: "Silverback" Advanced Battle Rifle by Wouter Kroon
Which was in turn, inspired by the COD2 XR2 rifle.
This blaster started out with a VERY different paint job and theme. Though the bullpup design is quite nice, the blaster itself is pretty small and underpowered.
I was not sure what to do with it, so I came up with this idea inspired by another Nerf blaster located here, https://i.pinimg.com/originals/11/3e/0c/113e0c81ac21b00884206ca08e2cb3b5.jpg
Though the paint job turned out well, I was not very happy with generic look and feel and was exploring the idea of getting aftermarket kit for customization and found BlasterRevolutions excellent designs. (No I do not work for him, but his work is good and he deserves props for effort to 3D CAD parts for Nerf blasters). So I bought the plans and printed the parts out. The designs were good, but my prints did not turn out as well as I would have hoped and 3D printed PLA parts though are very porous and do not paint as well as the molded parts of the original blaster. So though it is not my best work, I still REALLY like the look, shape and feel of what I have now. Hope you like!
Nerf Product: Ryven
Accessories: 3D printed kit, Nerf Rayven "Laser Shark” body by BlasterRevolution (note: I printed the parts from the files purchased from his Etsy site.)
Nerf Muzzle break #22 by em_jay
NERF Vortex Nitron Tactical Scope ($10)
Color pallet: Flat black rattlecan
Flat white rattlecan
Hex stencil by JackRabbitNerfer
Inspired by: "Silverback" Advanced Battle Rifle by Wouter Kroon
Which was in turn, inspired by the COD2 XR2 rifle.
This blaster started out with a VERY different paint job and theme. Though the bullpup design is quite nice, the blaster itself is pretty small and underpowered.
I was not sure what to do with it, so I came up with this idea inspired by another Nerf blaster located here, https://i.pinimg.com/originals/11/3e/0c/113e0c81ac21b00884206ca08e2cb3b5.jpg
Though the paint job turned out well, I was not very happy with generic look and feel and was exploring the idea of getting aftermarket kit for customization and found BlasterRevolutions excellent designs. (No I do not work for him, but his work is good and he deserves props for effort to 3D CAD parts for Nerf blasters). So I bought the plans and printed the parts out. The designs were good, but my prints did not turn out as well as I would have hoped and 3D printed PLA parts though are very porous and do not paint as well as the molded parts of the original blaster. So though it is not my best work, I still REALLY like the look, shape and feel of what I have now. Hope you like!
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Vim Fuego
Well-Known Member
Whenever I can, I only take photos of the 'display' side of the blaster. There's a few exceptions, like the Strongarm and the Maverick to name a couple, as they have some nice details on the other side. I've never considered filling the screw-holes as I like to be able to reopen the blasters if I need to, but if it were to be an actual non-funtional prop I would probably consider using an epoxy putty like Milliput - not as structurally sound as Tamiya 2-part, but fine for gap filling and a lot cheaper.
edit: the other good thing about having a 'display' side is that I like to start with the other side whenever I'm testing out something new - I can work out any teething problems before moving into areas that will show up when the blaster is on display...
GhostWithThMost
New Member
I've discovered that thrift stores are the best place to scour for Nerf guns. I got this Zombie Strike Hammershot for two bucks; I've collected an entire Nerf arsenal for less than fifty bucks total! I decided to finally customize one of these. Here's the before:
And here's the after:
And here's the after:
Noeland
Master Member
I use putty, usually milliput, to fill the screw holes. I like milliput because it can be smoothed with water. So I just fill the holes with putty, put a dab of water on the tip of my finger, and then smooth it out. No sanding to worry about. Works really nicely. But I've used wood putty, and drywall putty before too.
DFC Props
Active Member
Hmm... I'm slightly jealous. I rarely find Nerf guns at thrift stores near me. And if I do, they're really expensive (I mean they're priced higher than they should be... not as expensive as buying brand new). I have yet to find a place where they sell things really cheap. But that's great that you got all those Nerf guns! Nice job on the Hammershot. Love the color theme...
GhostWithThMost
New Member
Thanks! I don't know what the deal is, but every weekend I hit the thrift stores for prop stuff, and I usually find one new model every time. Mostly at a place called America's Thrift Store (I think they're a chain).
DFC Props
Active Member
Does this count? It's not quite a "Nerf" gun, but it was a toy dart blaster. This was meant to be a relatively quick project, but due to some mess ups and not being happy with the finish, I shelved it for a while. It started from orange, then to navy blue, and finally to grey. Not the most beautiful paint job to date, but I'm pleased with the result.
CB2001
Master Member
Jive Turkey
Member
Since everyone else is doing it, here's a little paint up I did for my nephew. Its my first shot at one of these and it's been a lot of fun. Just gotta weather it now. The stencil I made says his name in the Star Wars language
A couple questions:
Did OP ever post a painting tutorial? I went through several pages and couldn't find anything. His weathering is incredible.
And how are you guys sealing the guns to protect the paint? Seems that they're nearly functionless unless you're okay with paint scraping off around the primers and pumps (I'll probably end up chopping the primer off this one and making it display only)
A couple questions:
Did OP ever post a painting tutorial? I went through several pages and couldn't find anything. His weathering is incredible.
And how are you guys sealing the guns to protect the paint? Seems that they're nearly functionless unless you're okay with paint scraping off around the primers and pumps (I'll probably end up chopping the primer off this one and making it display only)
DFC Props
Active Member
Very cool. I love the colors you picked and the Aurebesh is a nice touch. I'm pretty new to this kind of thing (only three years in the hobby so far) and you knocked it out of the park for your first one.
Most of my props I usually make "display only". I have tried to keep functionality, but as you said, the paint scrapes off the moving parts. To prevent the paint from scratching off, I usually clear coat it with a clear, matte spray paint (or gloss, depending on the look I'm going for). However, I would be careful about the parts that get a lot of friction such as the pump. If you can open up the hole where the pump goes in so it doesn't scrape against the sides, that might help... or add a soft material such as fabric so you don't have plastic rubbing against plastic.
I'm not super knowledgeable about it, but hopefully that helps. Remember that the clear coat spray paint will add an extra layer of paint, even though it doesn't look like it does.
Nice Maverick. I especially like the barrel holes and small piping. Good job!
Vim Fuego
Well-Known Member
I don't think JA has ever done a tutorial - I for one would have watched the bejeezus out of it! The best we've been able to hope for is WIP photos...
The best way to get a good, damage-resistant finish is to start with thorough preparation; sanding to give the paint something to hold onto, followed by a bath in warm soapy water to remove oils, dust and grime and then air-drying.
If you're going to use the blaster as originally intended, there's nothing on earth that will magically stop the paint scratching, chipping and stripping over time. The most that clear-coats can do is mitigate damage. I have heard that paying a little more for automotive quality paint improves the durability, but be warned: any clear-coat can just as easily destroy a paintjob as protect it if certain physical and environmental circumstances are not met when using them. I personally tend try to steer clear of them if possible by using enamel paint for my work wherever possible, unless it's a potentially high-wear area of the shell that will need a greater degree of permanence.
An alternative and/or backup for clear-coats is a good polish with a wax-coat furniture- or floor-polish. It contains a thin acrylic/silicone solution that smooths the paint while at the same time reducing friction between moving parts - especially where paint is completely dry but hasn't fully cured and still retains a degree of tackiness when rubbed against other painted surfaces. Most of my blasters get this treatment around slides, triggers, priming handles and pump grips. Even though you'll see a lot of people say that painting moving parts is a bad idea, I paint everything that shows from the outside, even internals in some cases, and using this technique serves me well - I very rarely need to resort to sandpaper to remedy binding.
Although my blasters are primarily display pieces, they are all 100% functional (some even more so). They do get primed every so often and stripping is something I don't see very often in my later works. In saying that, I did a Switchshot a little while back, and there was no power on earth that could make the paint stick to the priming handle (not the shaft - the loop!), I went through the entire process twice with super-thorough sanding and it still wouldn't stick (it must have been something ingrained in the plastic), so there will always be bugbears... Those T-pull primers are notoriously bad.
Jive Turkey
Member
Thanks for the compliments and tips, guys. You both do such wicked work, so I really appreciate the encouragement!
Apparently my nephew just wants to hang this on his wall anyway, so I'm probably in the clear with not having to worry about functionality (w000t!)
Can't wait to see more from the both of you
Riceball
Master Member
I've used standard modelling putty, the kind you use to cover up seams and the like, but I forget the brand. I used it because it was what I had on hand, it's easy to work with, and it's sandable. In order to not use a ton of putty for each hole, I stuff a bit of paper (any kind will do) to act as a filler, before applying putty.
Noeland
Master Member
I hate the screw holes on nerf guns. I use milliput if I have it, JB weld putty, and I have used wood putty, drywall putty, or bondo in the past as well. If you use a putty that smooths well with water, you don't even need to sand it after you're done. I just put some water on the tip of my finger and smooth it out that way.
