Graflex 2.0 Sabers - Show your work / Talk Electronics

I'm trying to figure out the 1 inch blade adapter, I think this is one way Ill go on one of mine this one will have the crystal chamber reveal. but as I'm a nub I'm pretty smart will figure all this stuff out. Thanks ....Jim
 
I see now the nano 2 needs a pex and the nano 3 doesn't got it me the nub well anyways, I'm learning and really liking this thread. Thanks.....Jim
 
I'm trying to figure out the 1 inch blade adapter, I think this is one way Ill go on one of mine this one will have the crystal chamber reveal. but as I'm a nub I'm pretty smart will figure all this stuff out. Thanks ....Jim

What are you trying to figure out with it?


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I want to build a Harp chassis love this reveal lots of small led's doing a lot of stuff just wiring this part up is going to be a challenge I have the mill to do this and a pretty good modeler just see my thread on the 1/6th batmobile got to get this done before wonderfest. I don't really want to remove all those bits to pull out the chassis can I do this with out doing those steps or do I have to to have this reveal. The blade adapter I will get from vader's vault this seems like the rite one and its 1 inch so will all my led's change in size. Man when I do a project I jump in deep I can't even feel the bottom LOL. Thanks.....Jim
 
Thanks for all the info I bought a few parts off the list. The 7/8" heatsinks are still in stock if anyone has not purchased one yet.
Thanks for the heads up - this is one of the few pieces that will be harder to obtain - ordered mine yesterday. One thing that's kind of sad is how many of these nice pieces will be unseen in a finished build - that copper heatsink is very pretty, as is the whole grenade-style blade holder. I wonder if someone will figure out a way to do a very wide-open reveal like the eFX that shows it off.
 
I just ordered some more parts. Ordered the Goth 3D Knight chassis (both parts), the copper 7/8 heat sink off etsy, and a tri-rebel blue/blue/white LED and lens off of TCSS. Now, to sit and wait for those to come in, and then will order more stuff.
 
Thanks for the heads up - this is one of the few pieces that will be harder to obtain - ordered mine yesterday. One thing that's kind of sad is how many of these nice pieces will be unseen in a finished build - that copper heatsink is very pretty, as is the whole grenade-style blade holder. I wonder if someone will figure out a way to do a very wide-open reveal like the eFX that shows it off.
Yep I agree there are a lot of unseen parts that are cool and a lot of parts are getting hard to get so many are building this saber, but its cool just to see what others are coming up with Love it. Thanks....Jim
 
I just ordered TCSS heat sink and the etsy one...see which I like better...doubt there will be a big difference but I think I'll end up building a second one in the future anyway. For a good friend of mine.


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Do you have a link for the TCSS heatsink?
That new copper one from Saberforge (etsy) looks great. I kinda wish i hadn't order the other one.

I just ordered TCSS heat sink and the etsy one...see which I like better...doubt there will be a big difference but I think I'll end up building a second one in the future anyway. For a good friend of mine.


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Do you have a link for the TCSS heatsink?
That new copper one from Saberforge (etsy) looks great. I kinda wish i hadn't order the other one.
Saberbay, not saberforge.

I grabbed one yesterday - the design looks great with the groove for a retention screw. The lip on the TCSS sink would be nice to hold the optics in place, but I'll make do. My 2.0 will not be a dueling saber in any way.
 
Would someone take a look at my wiring diagram and see if it is correct? Do you think I can use one resistor for both blue LEDs?
Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
NB3.jpg
 
I'm not sure if the NBv3 has improved on this, but my NBv2 that I used in a Luke Hero build is definitely finicky. I have two green dies (no FOC) each with a 1 watt, 1 ohm resistor. A green xpe2 die draws 3.7v at 1 amp, and the NBv2 is supposed to be able to drive 2 amps without issue. Still, I get random swings, etc., when the battery is fully charged, so I'd err on the side of caution and stick a resistor on anyway.

It's one of the reasons I'm going with a Spark Color 2 board, no resistors needed with the trudrive.
 
Also there are quite a few lightsaber boards on facebook that eagerly await stock notifications as well. There's lot of people trying to build fx sabers these days.
 
Also there are quite a few lightsaber boards on facebook that eagerly await stock notifications as well. There's lot of people trying to build fx sabers these days.
Yep, for sure I see that I may be one of those, I love it its like model building but in another form. I never thought it would be so cool. I've always loved the light saber only had toy types and now after seeing all this I have gone I can't think of a word to type in there,but this is all so cool and loving this thread every time. Thanks......Jim
 
Would someone take a look at my wiring diagram and see if it is correct? Do you think I can use one resistor for both blue LEDs?
Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
View attachment 590760

This is my personal diagram that I have drawn up (I have many for different configurations. It is always recommended to resist the LED's individually. And no, you do not need a resistor on the white die since the forward voltage of the die is so close to the supply voltage. Basic.png
 
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