Hey guys,
I'm back from LA. Had an overfull schedule while there and only my ipad, sithonly so-so internet, so I didn't have time to hang around here much. I am however back on this. Test printed the new, longer body this weekend and it looks MUCH better:
View attachment 458347
New shell on left, with bottom "button" printed in grey plastic sitting loosely in the socket. (The bottom button has a loop underneath for adding an axel, enabling you to make it into a functional on/off button, kind of like a see-saw, for any lights you choose to incorporate, saving the hassle of an external on/off switch.
Note that I don't guarantee this button-functionality, but it's there for anyone that wants to experiment!) New shell with bezel loose shown top-right. Old shell with test-fitting of the battery cover shown at lower-right.
I am just about ready to start accepting payments on these within the next day or two. Everyone on the list should expect a PM soon.
Answered this on my iPad last week, but it crashed so here goes again. The superglue method will not be needed (or even work at all) with this kit. This is hard, non-porous PLA plastic and superglue does not "soak" into it. You can still use it to glue of course, but it would be useless as a smoothing agent. (
Protip: nothing glues PLA better than solvent-based plexiglass cement such as "Acrifix 116". It works just like modeling glue does on styrene, by welding it together.) This plastic is readily sandable straight off, unlike the horrible white nylon stuff many commercial places use. That stuff will even turn away a buzz-saw! (The superglue makes the nylon brittle, thereby easier to sand, though I still prefer filler-primer for the nylon stuff.) I have sanded this plastic smooth without any filler at all... it just takes longer than using the filler-primer, which is why I usually use it.
