onderon
Sr Member
Let me know if i can helpYea still working on this. But good measurements are hard to come by. Many dead ends. Everyone just likes to post pictures of their toys to taunt me
Let me know if i can helpYea still working on this. But good measurements are hard to come by. Many dead ends. Everyone just likes to post pictures of their toys to taunt me
The easiest would be if you print out one of the pages of drawings, and correct the measurements with pen based on correct ones you take from a part. Then you could scan or take a picture of the corrected drawing and email it to me or post it to the forum and I can update the drawing.Let me know if i can help
nice work! I made all the parts on SW, so let me know if you want the original files to compare how I made them. This part I actually made twice, because if you put the tabs in, SW won't unfold it for you as a sheet metal part since it doesn't like compound curves.I’ve been learning CAD (Solidworks more specifically) for the past year and I started playing with these blueprints to help my learning curve. Doubt I’ll do all of them anytime soon and I know the font isn’t correct but it’s the closest I think the program has..
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Hey Sabs i really appreciate the offer and ill keep it in mind. But this project is another great way for me to keep learning all the details involved within SW. If I do end up making these parts it will be with MJF so I won’t have to worry about metal issues to be honest. My only issue is when designing them I will have to keep an eye out for tolerances as far as parts fitting together. Also I draw in inches and these are all in MM which isn’t a major issue but again it’s all a learning curve. I know I can switch over to MM without issue in SW as well if needed. Thanks for the tip on finding the correct text. There is never enough help one can receive so I truly appreciate it.nice work! I made all the parts on SW, so let me know if you want the original files to compare how I made them. This part I actually made twice, because if you put the tabs in, SW won't unfold it for you as a sheet metal part since it doesn't like compound curves.
For the proper lettering, you can find it online, then in Illustrator trace them, save that file as a DXF and import it into SW as a sketch. Then you can use it in your part as a wrap or cut or whatever you prefer to make it perfect. If you ever need it to be made by someone, just put the sketch in the drawing, and the sheet metal guys will laser it, or etch it on the sheet before bending it. Just have the size of the text as a box on the drawing. Too much Info? you bet.
Keep up the good work, and if you come across any improvements to the parts, feel free to share so we can update the drawings.
Sabs
I would be happy to learn the process and to admire the result !I've had some success casting the parts in Tin that i've been collecting from flea markets. I'll have a metal light saber yet!
Hello Sabs, I just found this thread after looking for quality dimensions for this prop, and would like to thank you for sharing your work! I was going to begin the long process of machining some of the parts for this saber, and I was wondering if I could make use of the models you mention. (I would especially appreciate it in inches, as all of the equipment I have access to is imperial, but of course I could convert from metric as well.) If not, I completely understand. Thanks again!I am in the process of remaking it in inches actually, and making drawings with both values written on them. I've also been putting the tolerances in the drawings, or with limits if I know them.
in case you didn't know, even if you are making it in inches, when you type the value into the dimension box you can type 23mm and it will convert it to 1inch for you without changing your preferences. I've started doing that in reverse, then rounding to the nearest value.
My model has two configurations for each part, one for 3d printing and one for machining (not that I will probably ever get it machined because of the cost) and then I have enough tolerance to have it fit snuggly.
Also I've gotten some parts printed in SLA, so they are super smooth, and made molds in high temp silicon. I've had some success casting the parts in Tin that i've been collecting from flea markets. I'll have a metal light saber yet!
Sabs
I'm working on it but it's not really top priority. I've been meaning to updoad some newer revisions of these files since they're a bit out of date. Are you machining them yourself or using a CNC?Hello Sabs, I just found this thread after looking for quality dimensions for this prop, and would like to thank you for sharing your work! I was going to begin the long process of machining some of the parts for this saber, and I was wondering if I could make use of the models you mention. (I would especially appreciate it in inches, as all of the equipment I have access to is imperial, but of course I could convert from metric as well.) If not, I completely understand. Thanks again!
I would like to try and do a bit of the simpler parts on a manual lathe and mill, but mostly I’d be using a HAAS cnc machine. None of them belong to me, this project is going to take a few weeks of lunch breaksI'm working on it but it's not really top priority. I've been meaning to updoad some newer revisions of these files since they're a bit out of date. Are you machining them yourself or using a CNC?
Well if you want the STEP files I don't mind sharing them so you can make your G code from it, and make your own drawings too in inches. I can't promise that it will be correct but it is a good approximation. send me a PM with your email address and I'll send you a file.Unfortunately I have no original parts, or I would love to contribute some measurements! I love the “free information” motif of this project. If there is any grunt work still to be done, I would be more than happy to help out!