Yeah, just filled a can with some lead fishing weights and hit it with the torch. :lol Yes, they got here quick! They may not be perfect, but they are miles ahead of those plastic ones.
Great looking blaster base so far, Clutch! Other than reading it in this thread, people will never be able to tell what parts it's made up from once it's finished. That C96 replica is bound to confuse someone someday.
With the available video quality for NR it's tough to tell for sure but I noticed a possible difference between the NR's upper receiver vs. the ANH Hero's.
I wonder if there were two custom bull barreled Mausers built instead of one, and why would the Merr Sonn have the ANH upper and the NR lower?.. :confused
Now you tell me! :lol Didn't think to check that. I don't have a real one to compare to, only my MGC. I don't remember seeing much difference unless MGC is way off as well. Also, was the scope mount (the part that actually touches the scope) a found item? I'm thinking if it was, then it wouldn't get as scratched up as the mounting bracket, which I am assuming was just aluminum painted black. Where I'm going with this is I'm thinking about asking for the bracket and knobs to not be anodized so that they can be easily weathered?
The MGC trigger is better but has this "insert" which a real one doesn´t have. As you can see the real trigger is much "pointy" and slimmer than on the Denix.
But even with all the holes filled already, you should be able to reshape it with some efforts...
Tape/ mask your trigger guard and C96 body as good and you can to avoid scratching. Put it in a vice and get to work with a coarse file.
To my knowledge it was never determined wheter the actual scope mount was a found item or specially built for NR. But based on the pre-production shots of the Han hero DL44, it´s clearly blued and not painted!
the trigger can also be set back to the proper position by altering the cocking notch and drilling a new hole for the pin forward of where it is. You can fill the hole with "low melt" soldier.
you can also make the rear of the trigger guard "rounder" by using a 1 inch or so pipe inside the guard and gently hammering (on the pipe) to reshape the back of the guard slightly, then file/dremel the outside contour to match the HERO.
...By the way Clutch, the anodizing is easily weather-able. It would be easy to scuff off some color to look worn. If you got them raw, you would need to paint them anyway (in aluminum.) so the base color would help.
Maybe to get it all off but to just wear the edges a bit it shouldn't be too tough... I'm sure if you want to leave them raw we could. What about the rest of the parts?