Anakin Starkiller V2 + V3 Builders kit Tutorial
- Thread starter Halliwax
- Start date
if Trent's a bully, he's doing a real poor job at it... Guy has done so much for this place, you have no idea how much he helped me out 2 years ago... never met the guy in person but he's my best friend. and this community is what brought us together..
To keep this thread rolling about V2 stuff, I have completed a commission and have a video coming out in 2 weekends. a few new tricks, new chassis update. and in this video i will go into more detail about its assembly
also have a surprise guest..
I haven't been active here much because of my real job. this is the largest structure ive built in my life.. i should be done in 3 weeks, and ill be back to normal here.
View attachment 1054944
got another one in the works for a "certain" guy here.. ill keep you all posted
and as always, thanks for the support guys, really appreciate you all
Beautiful!!!
thanks chris, means a lot. I just finished a new jig to drill a straight hole through the nipple to rotate the 3mm set screw holes. so now they are perfectly straight. my legend nipple is hacked up, hidden when installed but when taken apart there is a extra hole that drives me nuts lol
fixed it on this one
again, Dan has a few builders kit left in stock if anyone wants one grab it now. he said he's NEVER doing another v2 again!!!
www.atstarsend.com
Updates
- 9/2/19 Updated first page with remaining Builder's Kit status, and link to where to purchase
www.atstarsend.com
- 9/2/19 Updated first page with remaining Builder's Kit status, and link to where to purchase
www.atstarsend.com
Dude, wait a sec, are you using my stencils on these to create the "blotchy" look and shapes of where it will eventually chip away?? That is bloody genius!
Actually I’m trying to mimic your stencils by free hand with liquid latex
What? Are you ******** me? That’s awesome. So you’re doing a layer, painting them, then painting the rest of it with a second coat or what?
Would you please enlighten me on the paint color you used from the clamp up? That color is awesome! I’m just wondering whether or not you used your three color mix combo or if it is one color. It looks like it would just age perfectly. Free handing the stencil on there is just wicked! I can’t wait to see more on this.
So I use my v2 with your stencils as a guide
I put a base coat of your rustoluem black we used for some project, I forgot what one but I went out and bought the same exact black
Flat black 249127
Then i let it dry, and apply liquid latex, stenciling your chips by hand, then I spray rustoluem professorial flat black (the 7578 flat black) to make the chips
Then I remove all the latex and do the normal aging with wood tools and steel wool
Guinness went on record saying he used his thumb to slow down the emitter to try and stop the blades from breaking, you can see the progression of weather patterns through out the photos from his thumb (but damn it not a single chip on his fingers...)
I then put some acetone in a rag, let the rag dry a little then buff the lower sections of the emitter with that
It tarnishes the paint, I do this in a power drill to get the moving effect, spin the emitter in the drill and rub the rag on it
I then seal it all with matte finish
The ring section is the 249127 flat black, then i dry brush the 7578 flat black in between the ring section, giving it a texture
Again, tarnish the paint with a ace tone rag randomly (barely any acetone is on the rag at this time, it evaporates quickly, you don’t want it soaking wet)
I seal the rings with matte clear
The booster is 249127. The pictures I have of the booster seem to not have any weathering paint job on it. (By the death scene the booster and rings are already missing chips and scratches, I choose not to add those )
The pictures I have of the windvane in color are just black and brown, there is also a great black and white photo defining the weathering chips so that helps a lot
But I don’t use clear matte finish on the windvane, but I do spray the entire windvane with a brown, the brown is a satin finish, and again latex stenciled with 249127 flat black then dry brushed with 7578 black
And of course had to over spray the windvane with the brown like we talked about on the v2 !
When over spraying be sure to spray in line where the set screw is in the ring section, as that’s where the over spray is today on the v2
The owner walked home with his legend today, I won’t be doing any 9v versions. They are far to risky..
The client has to open it and change the battery, it doesn’t last long (10 mins tops) every time you open this up you take the chance of disturbing the driveshaft and bearings.. not worth it. (3 bearing balancing system) He lives the town over so he said he’s gonna bring it by for me to change the battery when the time comes
Realistically the only reason I came up with the 9v idea was so when I do my lightsaber panels at comic con, I can quickly pull this stunt off the table, flick the switch and show them the blade spinning while describing how the wires use to run up the sleeve and down to a battery on the belt. Wasn’t too worried about accuracy when it came to powering it
But sharing this experiment here on therpf the members here convinced me just to go with the battery belt option..
This client liked the idea of the 9v and went with it.
12v has more power, last longer, and you don’t have to worry about opening it up
I’m now using a new battery setup which is just as powerful, cheaper to buy, easier to charge!
The battery and charger setup I got from the RC shop is super complicated, have to discharge it before charging,. Blah blah blah
This new setup I’ll supply is far more user friendly
I got a few more on the way to do so keep an eye out!
Again thanks everyone for the support I really appreciate and respect each one of ya
Are you talking about the windvane? Or the ring section? On the legend or a RoTJ V2?
Does the post above this one help ya? That’s for the legend, the v2 I have another thread strictly for chemically aging, physical damage, paint, weathering and accuracy finish work.
I’m not lying when I say I put 70 hours into these things. Even more with the legends because of all the machine work, 3d printing, and fabrication.
Really appreciate the support!
Very welcome! I hope they help!
So I use my v2 with your stencils as a guide
I put a base coat of your rustoluem black we used for some project, I forgot what one but I went out and bought the same exact black
View attachment 1055139View attachment 1055139
Flat black 249127
Then i let it dry, and apply liquid latex, stenciling your chips by hand, then I spray rustoluem professorial flat black (the 7578 flat black) to make the chips
Then I remove all the latex and do the normal aging with wood tools and steel wool
Guinness went on record saying he used his thumb to slow down the emitter to try and stop the blades from breaking, you can see the progression of weather patterns through out the photos from his thumb (but damn it not a single chip on his fingers...)
I then put some acetone in a rag, let the rag dry a little then buff the lower sections of the emitter with that
It tarnishes the paint, I do this in a power drill to get the moving effect, spin the emitter in the drill and rub the rag on it
I then seal it all with matte finish
The ring section is the 249127 flat black, then i dry brush the 7578 flat black in between the ring section, giving it a texture
Again, tarnish the paint with a ace tone rag randomly (barely any acetone is on the rag at this time, it evaporates quickly, you don’t want it soaking wet)
I seal the rings with matte clear
The booster is 249127. The pictures I have of the booster seem to not have any weathering paint job on it. (By the death scene the booster and rings are already missing chips and scratches, I choose not to add those )
The pictures I have of the windvane in color are just black and brown, there is also a great black and white photo defining the weathering chips so that helps a lot
But I don’t use clear matte finish on the windvane, but I do spray the entire windvane with a brown, the brown is a satin finish, and again latex stenciled with 249127 flat black then dry brushed with 7578 black
And of course had to over spray the windvane with the brown like we talked about on the v2 !
When over spraying be sure to spray in line where the set screw is in the ring section, as that’s where the over spray is today on the v2
The owner walked home with his legend today, I won’t be doing any 9v versions. They are far to risky..
The client has to open it and change the battery, it doesn’t last long (10 mins tops) every time you open this up you take the chance of disturbing the driveshaft and bearings.. not worth it. (3 bearing balancing system) He lives the town over so he said he’s gonna bring it by for me to change the battery when the time comes
Realistically the only reason I came up with the 9v idea was so when I do my lightsaber panels at comic con, I can quickly pull this stunt off the table, flick the switch and show them the blade spinning while describing how the wires use to run up the sleeve and down to a battery on the belt. Wasn’t too worried about accuracy when it came to powering it
But sharing this experiment here on therpf the members here convinced me just to go with the battery belt option..
This client liked the idea of the 9v and went with it.
12v has more power, last longer, and you don’t have to worry about opening it up
I’m now using a new battery setup which is just as powerful, cheaper to buy, easier to charge!
The battery and charger setup I got from the RC shop is super complicated, have to discharge it before charging,. Blah blah blah
This new setup I’ll supply is far more user friendly
I got a few more on the way to do so keep an eye out!
Again thanks everyone for the support I really appreciate and respect each one of ya
Last edited:
BritWalker
Well-Known Member
Any news on this run dude, looking to add some weight to mine
