Anakin Starkiller V2 + V3 Builders kit Tutorial

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by halliwax, Sep 27, 2018.

  1. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Anakin Starkiller V2 + V3 Builders Kit Tutorials
    v2150_expanded_2.jpg


    TUTORIAL INDEX
    V2 Hole location, Drilling + Tapping

    V3 Hole locations, Drilling + Tap


    V3 Clamp Hole locations + Drilling

    -updated 10/8/18

    VIDEO INDEX

    V2 + V3 Assembly


    V2 Edition


    V3 Edition



    TOOL INDEX
    __________________________
    - Sharpie
    - Pencil
    - Sissors
    - 1"x1" angle iron
    - Straight Edge
    - Center punch
    - Counter Sink Drill bit
    - Blue Tape
    - Micrometers
    - 1/8th Drill bit
    - 5/16th Drill bit
    - 3mm x 0.5 Tap
    - 2.5mm Drill bit
    - 5mm x 0.80 Tap
    - 4.20 Drill bit
    - 6mm x 1.00 Tap
    - 5mm Drill bit
    - 8mm Drill bit
    - Power Drill/ Drill Press
    ____________________________

    PAINT & WEATHERING INDEX

    V2 Throne Room Edition



    V2 Alec Guiness Edition
    ...coming REAL soon


    V3 ROTJ Edition
    ...coming soon


    template.png

    V3ClampTemplate.png
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
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  2. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Anakin Starkiller V2 + V3 Builders Kit Tutorial
    V2 Edition
    ckkuY26.jpg


    Tools used in this Tutorial
    (but not required)


    3ETdxm9.jpg
    __________________________
    - Sharpie
    - Pencil
    - Sissors
    - 1"x1" angle iron
    - Straight Edge
    - Center punch
    - Blue Tape
    - Micrometers
    - 3mm x 0.5 Tap
    - 2.5mm Drill bit
    - 5mm x 0.80 Tap
    - 4.20 Drill bit
    - 6mm x 1.00 Tap
    - 5mm Drill bit
    - Power Drill/ Drill Press
    ____________________________​


    To begin, we have to thank trooper trent for taking the time out of his day and converting my hand made templates into downloadable, printable version. that version can be downloaded in this post, attached below. please follow his instructions here to scale them correctly!

    Instructions for sizing:
    Print at full size and it should fit. But just to be sure, the image should be printed at 593 x 644 pixels
    This should give the entire thing a size of about 170.392mm x 156.889mm.



    View attachment 845243




    If printing in MS paint, the imagine size is at the bottom.
    azS3vGT.png

    Either way, just print at 100% rather then shrinking it to fit
    xacq44N.png


    Let the tutorial begin!

    Now that you have templates printed out, cut out the booster and pommel section. making sure to cut exactly on the lines.
    Mghrhxr.jpg


    Next we are going to take our 1" angle iron and cut it to roughly 6 inchs. Now place the angle iron flat on the booster, centering it on the 4mm grub screw. With our pencil, now mark a line on the booster, using the 1" angle iron as a guide. BE SURE to have the pencil at a 90* angle with the angle iron so the line is perfect.

    Don't forgot to continue the mark into the pommel recess, that line we are going to use later!

    we must make sure the pommel is in the correct orientation. You want the pommel cube right of the D ring, to be centered with the 4mm grub screw in the booster. like below.

    0Patr3Z.jpg

    FjyWkiB.jpg

    Now this is going to look familiar, we are going to cut small pieces of tape and tape the patterns we cut out on the booster and pommel recess. Now pay attention and make sure the Booster Template is on the pencil line we made. making sure the pencil is in 1/2" through the grub screw

    2kgGt65.jpg

    Another very important thing is, we have to make sure the printer printed these templates out to the correct scale. if its the right scale, the template should wrap completely around the booster, JUST like trents stencils! if there is a large gap between the template this is a problem and its not to scale.. try printing them out a little larger and try again. if you decide to go with it and use the smaller template, the Cone knob will be in the wrong location...
    Z9XFK5R.jpg

    Now that our template is on correctly, we are going to use a center punch to create a little dent for our drill bit to start in. if you have never used a center punch before it is very easy and works amazingly!

    qHq994l.jpg

    if you dont want to break down and buy a center punch... which i highly recommend purchasing if you plan on doing more lightsabers.. you can always use a nail and hammer.. this isn't 100% right way of doing it, but can be pulled off right.. again i highly recommend the center punch
    7AEEZRz.jpg

    now we are going to put on the mystery chunk template. double check and make sure the pommel is still clocked in the right orientation, then stick the mystery chunk template on the pencil line you made! are you excited yet?!

    3BGcJ98.jpg

    The dot for the mystery chunk so be located here on the pommel cube, this will make the mystery chunk sit half and half in line with the cube

    HzyJeLy.jpg

    use the center punch once more and punch that sucker!

    5tPgbol.jpg

    Now we need to pay attention... we are going to drill and tap for the cone knob. The Cone knob Dan made for us is beautiful. it has a 6mm x 1.00 thread pitch. so we will need a 6mm x 1.00 tap, and a 5mm drill bit to drill for the tap. these can be purchased from mcmastercarr. just go to post #1 here in the thread and click the links to go right to the website with the correct part numbers.

    you may also have some luck purchasing on eBay and amazon

    maOvKQ8.jpg

    With the booster flat on the table, you may want to put some cardboard under the ring section to let the saber sit perfectly flat. Carefully, try and hold the drill at a 90* angle and drill all the way through with the 5mm drill bit.

    in my video at the end i show how to use a drill like a drill press but using the wall as a guide, check it out

    ZUCFpae.jpg

    QDjJVbz.jpg

    Now comes time for the tapping. You want to use a cutting oil to help the tap cut through the threads. I am not a machinist, nor is my father but we have built some pretty crazy sh%t. and he always told me to tap until its tight, turn 1/4 turn, then back all the way out, clean the threads and do it again, wait for tight, turn 1/4 of a turn, back all the way out. SLOW is the key part here!! DO NOT RUSH!!

    x1qEHmg.jpg

    Now comes time for the famous Mystery Chunk..
    svYhevy.jpg

    The under side of the leather tool is thin, but then it slowly progresses wider for a more comfortable grip in the hand. we will have to sand this down to make it all one size, and then shove that in the hole we drill. so the thinnest part of the leather tool is 4.13 or so.

    I personally threw my leather tool on the lathe, and turned it down to 4.10, because I have a 4.20mm drill bit i will use on the V3 this should slip right in.

    gUhpUwc.jpg

    BUT not everyone has a lathe... So i have done this in the past with bolts. I put the leather tool in a power drill, and used sand paper to turn it down. this takes time, but works! you can even use a file, to speed up the process, we only have to shave off 1mm or so..

    6e1xeCe.jpg

    d6WenS4.jpg

    Again, i turned mine on my lathe so i cheated... you can easily cut it with pliers

    gGFZB6H.jpg

    then sanded the edges on my bench sander to remove the sharp edges
    8hfTtzu.jpg

    Now i am not one to do comparisons, but since these are both from Dan. I figured theres no harm and i'd throw this up there, i also like this picture a lot with the 2 chunks

    pgSl2kC.jpg

    with the hole being 4.20 if it still is tight, just keep running the leather tool in the drill chuck with the sand paper until it goes in. if you take your time, you can do it so its a tolerance tight fit, and no glue would be required. if the hole is too big, you can easily dab a little e6000 on it and let it sit over night.

    cT4UGAI.jpg

    And thats all to it on installing the Cone knob and mystery chunk.

    8bVngbc.jpg

    The last thing we need to do is add the milling circle in the pommel cube.

    This circle can be seen on the 2nd pommel recess from the left of the D ring cube.
    4d60c24184edd7ec4022ee474ce4b6bd.jpg

    Dan Starkiller came up with this clever trick! And I love it!

    Your best bet is to put the pommel in a vise, this will ensure it staying straight and allow you to heat it up.

    9a357e6bf54026a7057b94ee623c2649.jpg

    First you will need a 3/8 x 16 hex bolt. Preferably nothing smaller then 2-1/2” this way you have a good grip on it.

    cf03cc066ec66ac7a8f338a0cff68711.jpg

    The bottom of this bolt should measure around 6.40-6.50mm

    Next, use a pair of micrometers and measure down 11.20 mm from the edge of the pommel recess.
    6cee83ba090ae6212e925be810343939.jpg

    Use a sharpie and mark a center Mark

    Next, heat up the pommel with some heat. You don’t need much, 45seconds is plenty of time
    25f88868bdaa56372949c11d2e6770af.jpg

    Now carefully because the pommel is hot, center the 3/8 x 16 bolt on the mark we made with the sharpie

    3bec24959672dda7807fca07211acb14.jpg

    20e61c1f676afafc7fe9822b6a337e92.jpg

    WE ARE HITTING STEEL ON STEEL USE EYE PROTECTION!!!!

    I use a 16oz finish hammer and gave it one good pop!

    And the end result is a beautiful circle!!
    a6d93b107da66314d525f5cf4f701f04.jpg
    I hope this tutorial was helpful! so chemical aging, physical damage locations, painting, and weathering please see our master Anakin Starkiller FX thread. where I cover all the finishing work.

    Anakin Starkiller FX thread

    If you have not yet grabbed one of these, i highly encourage you to check out Anakin Starkillers Run thread, see if he has any left!
    Anakin Starkiller V2 + V3 Builders Kit Run

    No V2 is complete with out a accurate paint job, TrooperTrent still has his legendary stencils in stock, don't hesitate and grab a set today! also check out his Gaffers tape adapter kit!!

    Trooper Trent Stencil Set


    To complete the V2 we need the correct clamp card, thankfully sloth furnace came to our rescue and has a beautiful vintage finish option
    www.slothfurnace.com

    For the correct clamps you can grab a satin finish from Roman Props
    Roman Props Satin Clamp

    To complete the clamp you will be a lever from our boy Roy!
    Wannawanga.com lever
    (9/27/18 as of right now they are out of stock, but roy is quickly working to restocking them! CHECK DAILY!!)

    Here is a little video of myself explaining how to apply the templates



    Next up I will be doing the V3 version, stay on the look out!!

    template.png

    V3ClampTemplate.png
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
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  3. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

    Trophy Points:
    4,485
    Anakin Starkiller V2 + V3 Builders Kit Tutorial
    V3 Edition
    ckkuY26.jpg


    Tools used in this Tutorial
    (but not required)


    3ETdxm9.jpg
    __________________________
    - Sharpie
    - Pencil
    - Sissors
    - 1"x1" angle iron
    - Straight Edge
    - Center punch
    - Blue Tape
    - Micrometers
    - 3mm x 0.5 Tap
    - 2.5mm Drill bit
    - 5mm x 0.80 Tap
    - 4.20 Drill bit
    - Power Drill/ Drill Press
    ____________________________​


    To begin, we have to thank trooper trent for taking the time out of his day and converting my hand made templates into downloadable, printable version. that version can be downloaded in this post, attached below. please follow his instructions here to scale them correctly!
    Instructions for sizing:
    Print at full size and it should fit. But just to be sure, the image should be printed at 593 x 644 pixels
    This should give the entire thing a size of about 170.392mm x 156.889mm.



    Attachment 845243



    If printing in MS paint, the imagine size is at the bottom.
    azS3vGT.png

    Either way, just print at 100% rather then shrinking it to fit
    xacq44N.png


    Let the tutorial begin!

    Now that you have templates printed out, cut out the Emitter and Wind vane section. making sure to cut exactly on the lines.
    VFjKkQh.jpg


    THIS IS VERY VERY IMPORTANT!!!!


    We must make sure the ring section is locked all the way into the correct position! to secure this position apply a piece of blue tape! if this ring section moves, the drilling marks can easily move in the wrong location!!
    km62C6K.jpg


    Next we are going to take our 1" angle iron and cut it to roughly 6 inchs. Now place the angle iron flat on the booster, centering it on the 4mm grub screw. With our pencil, now mark a line on the booster, using the 1" angle iron as a guide. BE SURE to have the pencil at a 90* angle with the angle iron so the line is perfect.

    BEFORE we do this, we want to make sure the pommel is in the correct orientation. I have a video covering this, but the picture below shows the booster grub screw should hug the right side, of the second pommel cube recess, JUST like the picture below

    this time, we will continue our pencil line all the way to the emitter. this is give us a "home base" to place our patterns

    SqzYU96.jpg

    and up the emitter

    zTu5K6X.jpg

    next, in the pommel recess, we are going to mark where we want to punch for the hole in the pommel. we want to hug the right side of this pommel recess, like below. the blue circle shows where i made my mark to punch later
    MW6RlTB.jpg

    kJszHad.jpg


    Next we will take our cut out patterns, and start applying them to the emitter and windvane

    4Txgdh2.jpg

    We will start with the emitter, just place the pattern on the line we drew with the pencil, and apply with tape, run it all the way around and but it up against itself.

    IF THE PATTERN IS NOT TOUCHING ITSELF IT IS TOO SMALL!

    DO NOT DRILL

    PRINT OUT A NEW SET AND TRY AGAIN


    If you use small patterns, the holes WILL NOT be in the right location. if there is a 1/8th gap between them, try printing them alittle bigger. keep trying and repeating the process until the patterns touch itself. thats when you will know for sure the holes are in the right locations.

    dJV8Ffa.jpg

    wrap it round, round

    BfLlflt.jpg

    perfect! now we will move onto the wind vane, same deal, make sure they touch!
    U1t1uva.jpg

    take your time, check it twice

    d30K6Fb.jpg

    i make sure to put a good amount of tape on it, this way when we punch and drill we dont mess up with it moving on us

    Next step, punch it! take your center punch, or the hammer and nail trick, and hit the dots. this creates a small dent, that out drill bits will easily rest in. this makes drilling holes on a cylinder like night and day! the center punch is fairly cheap, and i use it all the time, i really encourage you to use a center punch over a nail and hammer..

    almost, MOST IMPORTANTLY if using a hammer and nail..... safety glasses! Z87 or bust!

    sap0144.jpg



    uLBVr6v.jpg

    1 punch, now onto the windvane

    rZDpdUR.jpg

    we are making good time now. next lets drill these suckers! i personally drilled mine on my drill press, but if you watched my videos you saw how i used my power drill which has a flat bottom, as a drill press by sliding it up and down a wall of my work bench.

    this is where our taps and drill bits come in, for the pommel and emitter we are using a 5mm grub screw. so we need a 4.20mm drill bit, and m5 x 0.80 tap
    OgYDlzO.jpg

    i put a piece of wood under the v3, this keeps the booster 90* with the drill bit. slowly and i mean very slowly place the bit on the dent and begin drilling. it wouldn't hurt to have someone hold the v3 for you and you have both hands on the drill, keeping it steady.

    abwEWX4.jpg

    see it wasn't that bad! now repeat the process for the booster!
    CUdJ9cK.jpg

    break out that 5m x08.0 tap, and slowly begin to tap it. i did this live on the video, showing you how to turn it until its tight, do a 1/4 turn, then back all the way out. i always use some form of oil, if you dont have cutting oil handy (lowes and homedepot surprisingly doesnt carry it) if you got some old motor oil, hell i would do it with vegetable oil if you had any. anything is better then nothing, especially when we get into the smaller taps
    0GBKIb5.jpg

    i chose to go all the way through the emitter. i believe the hole goes all the way through to hold the blade. i have no proof this is only my theory
    efnNJv4.jpg

    Im not going to lie.. the next step is probably the scariest part of this whole kit. 3mm is very small, and small taps are known to break easily. so be sure to follow all the steps and dont skimp... if you tapped the 5mm's with out oil... go ask your wife your mom, what ever woman lives in the house with you for some oil. hell, if you dont have any oil what so ever get some shampoo... no not joking, use that if you dont have any oil. its better then nothing.. and if you dont have shampoo, peeyyyooouuu!

    all seriousness lets begin. lets get out the next set of taps. the m3 x 0.5 tap, and the 2.5mm drill bit
    OgYDlzO.jpg

    slowly begin the drill and drill as deep as you want. i went all the way through, believing this 3mm grub screw was used to lock the rod inside the holds the nipple-less emitter

    ODbYzcx.jpg

    now, since this is such a small tap, be sure to clean it out. every hole i drill i vacuum out. the larger holes you can usually get away with by blowing into them. this smaller one i dont want to take any chances of the tap binding and breaking off.. so i ran the vacuum over it real quick

    go get the cutting oil, old motor oil, vegetable oil, or shampoo, SOME kind of lubricant and dip the tap in, slowly turn until tight and back out. this took me 2-3 minutes before i thought it was good enough.
    2UC4puc.jpg

    did you make it all the way with out snapping?! CONGRATULATIONS!!! YOU DID IT!! all the scary parts are over! now go grab those grub screws, the 3mms that come with the nipple, you can scavenge them from the nipple since you wont be using them, and install one in the next. you will have to go to your hardware store and grab the 5mm grub screws though

    0fEG9EM.jpg

    Now she's really coming together. the V3 i do not believe has the 3mm screws under the emitter plate. there is thick black paint, or black tap over this section today, so we can see any holes. but i truly believe there isn't any holes there, and thats why there is a 5mm screw in the side of the emitter. they ditched the idea of 2 small 3mm screws holding the blade and went with 1 big one (5mm)

    36ddf49c0de05ed32c1690060bb1a042.jpg

    I hope this Tutorial has helped you understand how to drill the holes on the V3. if you still confused check out my video, im a visual learner so sometimes thats easier.



    If you havent purchased a V2 + V3 builders kit, follow the link below to Dan - Anakin Starkillers run! see if he has any left!
    Anakin Starkiller FX thread

    You will need a graflex clamp to finish this project, Roman has these in stock! i dont think there is many left so i wouldn't what long
    Roman Props Graflex V3 Clamp

    Sloth has had V3 clamp cards in his store forever, grabbing one from him you cant go wrong. hes the best in my eyes
    http://www.slothfurnace.com

    as always guys, thanks for your time!

    template.png

    V3ClampTemplate.png
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
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  4. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    V3 Clamp Modifications

    fptgs71.jpg


    Tools used in this Tutorial
    (All tools below are HIGHLY recommended)

    __________________________

    -Sissors
    - 1/8th Drill bit
    - 5/16th Drill bit
    or
    - 8mm Drill bit
    - Counter Sink Drill bit
    -Center punch
    -Blue Tape
    -Power Drill/ Drill Press
    ____________________________

    I used a 5/16th Drill bit to drill the holes, but if i had a 8mm I would have used that

    Alright gang, here we are again. This next tutorial is going to explain how to drill the holes in the correct locations on the V3 clamp. Gotta give our friend TrooperTrent another shout out for banging this template out for us today!

    So now attached to these posts are the new Clamp Template. down load it and print it out at 100% scale.

    View attachment 845243




    If printing in MS paint, the imagine size is at the bottom.
    azS3vGT.png

    Either way, just print at 100% rather then shrinking it to fit
    xacq44N.png


    Let the tutorial begin!

    Cut the template out and throw a piece of blue tape on the edge with the black location bar.

    XeHBBmt.jpg

    This black bar should be located right over the oval channel on the graflex clamp. if you printed it out correctly it should match exactly.

    picture below is used only as a example of the black bar in line with the oval channel. The picture below is NOT how to attach your template, and only used as a visual example!
    f61f9ca8ef4e2bbc2857fbaa7bcb3004.jpg

    I took these measurements off a vintage clamp. This tutorial i'm using a spare 89Sabers clamp. and the 89sabers oval channel matched perfectly as well! I also threw this template on Roman's newest clamp and it also fit very well!

    But i cant guarantee any other clamp will line up correctly because i dont have all the variants. so make sure to test fit these templates before you drill anything!

    now with the template locked with tape on the Oval channel side, wrap the template around the clamp and secure on the other side with tape.
    K3zjkV4.jpg

    Next we are going to whip out that center punch. But heres the deal... we DON'T want to warp the clamp... most replica clamps are made out of brass and can warp, and change shape very easily. While doing this tutorial i didn't feel comfortable with the flex in the clamp. So I ran out to the shed and got my 1-1/2" dowel, it is actually extra hand rail i use for denting V2 emitters.

    I slide the dowel into the clamp just to give it some reinforcement
    3yCWwbF.jpg

    Clamp reinforced

    deqyfNJ.jpg

    while i was in the shed i figured i would just use the drill press, you have much more control with the drill press then a hand drill. but in my V2 video you can see how to use the hand drill like a drill press if you do it carefully.

    So the holes in the clamp, I saw a thread where many agreed they were 8mm. I dont have a 8mm drill bit with me tonight ( i had a 8.5mm) so i used a 5/16th drill bit for the holes. but i used a 1/8th drill bit as a pilot hole first

    1/8 Drill bit pilot hole
    FxlgdEG.jpg

    Now with the pilot holes drilled, switch out to the 5/16th and drill them all over again

    Ideally if I was at the big shop I would use the step counter sink. They look like this and would have made everything much smoother.
    b28c028f34c7043e272f04d688ecdc57.jpg

    but Trent and I have had some PM’s about this template and I had a issue this weekend stalling the process of getting them out. I didn’t want to make everyone wait longer so I pumped this tutorial out with what I had at home. But if you don’t mind spending a few bucks, these step counter bits are amazing

    GXOJz5m.jpg

    Next can be debatable... So it looks like in the resin stunt the holes are chamfered...
    YDEqL5a.jpg


    BUT this chamber could be clay used when casting the V3 originally... OR this is exactly what a hole looks like when using a step counter sink bit.

    since the holes of the clamp are now rough i figured I personally was going to just counter sink them just a little, so it will look like the resin stunt.

    NZEKhPC.jpg

    Just a light little tap with the counter sink

    hne2Zrf.jpg

    You can see the inside of the clamp holes are really rough, hit them with a file to smooth them down. The clamps for some reason really fit tight on the Builders kit. With these burs its going to be very tough, and could ruin your finish. So i recommend to sand them smooth

    xIpYD4P.jpg

    You can also use a rat's tail file to remove any burs on the outside of the clamp
    fggg8x9.jpg

    Congratulations your done!! You now should have 3 holes in your V3 Clamp!

    AFNl45p.jpg

    SutSakC.jpg

    The only thing you should remember is to take your time. I would not do this with out reinforcement of the clamp. i was lucky to have this Hand rail in my shed, if not i wouldn't have finished the Tutorial tonight because the clamp was way too soft. I would not attempt this with out all the tools, it can go south real quick!

    I hope this little tutorial helped you guys who wanted to drill your own holes! Thanks again Trent, for taking the time out of your work day and doing this for us! much appreciated!!

    If you don't feel comfortable, Roman Props has these clamps in stock with the holes drilled already. With all the V2 + V3 kits Dan has produced I wouldn't hesitate to grab one!
    Roman Props V3 Clamp

    If you have not yet grabbed one of these, i highly encourage you to check out Anakin Starkillers Run thread, see if he has any left!
    Anakin Starkiller V2 + V3 Builders Kit Run

    To complete the V3 we need the correct clamp card, thankfully sloth furnace came to our rescue and has a beautiful V3 version.
    www.slothfurnace.com

    template.png

    V3ClampTemplate.png
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
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  5. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Last edited: Oct 8, 2018
  6. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  7. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    WOW awesome man!!!!

    - - - Updated - - -

    I should really wear gloves...
     
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  8. Anakin Starkiller

    Anakin Starkiller Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Amazing work!
     
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  9. TheUnchosenOne

    TheUnchosenOne Member

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    Awesome!

    Mental note: pick up goggles when I go to get the bolt
     
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  10. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I have working hands, never really was insecure about them until my ex. She always complained about them, now in most videos I’ll always wear them


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  11. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks dan! V3 part should be finished this weekend, need to retake a few pics

    The bolt trick worked awesome!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  12. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yup! Safety glasses is very very important. I use them all day at work and have 3 pairs in the shed. The glasses were right there on the bench when I was drilling as forgot to put them on

    Always have phantom glasses, since I wear them all day it feels like they are still on. I forget them most of the time..

    Down side is you sometimes forget you DON’T have them on lol


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  13. MakBzh

    MakBzh Active Member

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    Really ... really great work once again Danny !
     
  14. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks buddy! Trying to keep it organized, forgot 1 or 2 things it was getting late, I’ll tweak it tonight

    Also uploaded all the new pics for the FX thread so that will be updated too ;)


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  15. TheUnchosenOne

    TheUnchosenOne Member

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    I have prescription glasses and sometimes lose them on my own face, while they're correcting my vision so I can see. I can just imagine how easy it is to lose track of safety glasses
     
  16. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yeah or leave the safety glasses up on my head lol do that all the time too


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  17. ALLEY

    ALLEY Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Outstanding work!
     
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  18. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Much appreciated, got a few hours invested in computer time lol


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  19. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Updates


    - 10/4/18 added V3 Tutorial post #3
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
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  20. jorged123

    jorged123 New Member

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    Do you know the exact placement of the 3 holes in the Graflex clamp? I wonder if trooper Trent could supply another paper template for this? I got a beautiful Graflex stamped clamp from The Graflex Shop that needs to be modified. I already flipped it upside-down for the install.
     
  21. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Sorry I was working with trent tonight on this. I ran into a family “issue” everything is fine now, but I didn’t get all the way done and haven’t gone over everything with trent yet.

    I’m hoping to hook up with him tomorrow to bounce some ideas off him, he’s got a knack for simplifying and perfecting my ideas

    He’s also got computer skills I can only dream of

    So it’s not trents fault for the delay but mine

    So before you go drilling holes you may want to check out the patterns first.

    Here’s a little sample I what I did before I had to run out

    f4873d836119d8f437422967a62d1571.jpg


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  22. Kroenen77

    Kroenen77 Sr Member

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    Wow great!Has Trent made new stencils?I still have a V2 kit but I think with the first stencil version.
     
  23. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    The stencils In trents Etsy shop is his latest version and came out when Dan did his FX run

    Www.etsy.com/shop/troopertrent




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  24. Kroenen77

    Kroenen77 Sr Member

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    I have a V2 kit...are these stencils also better for the V2 or only for V3?
     
  25. jorged123

    jorged123 New Member

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    I love this template already. No need to apologize, you have a life-too! I got a slothfurnace otis card for the clamp and it looks great. The template is gonna make a nice standard for others that got TGS clamps like me. I'll report back if there's any size problems. The V2-V3 grub screw templates printed great from photoshop.

    Are you gonna paint the thin neck before the emitter a bronze or copper color? Hopefully none of us molest our hilts with metallic tape!

    Thanks again!
     
  26. Trooper_trent

    Trooper_trent Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Send me a message and a picture of the stencils you have. I recently completely redesigned the stencils with much more accurate details and more parts. You can also find my project run for them in the appropriate section by searching for "stencil"

    - - - Updated - - -

    Sorry man, I got your messages. I'm not ignoring you, just very busy at work this week. I'll get with Danny as soon as we both have some down time and work something up for you.
     
  27. Kroenen77

    Kroenen77 Sr Member

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    Will do,Trent.:)
     
  28. jorged123

    jorged123 New Member

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    I'm glad you're taking the time to do this. I appreciate Halliwax and your efforts on making this easier for us. Thanks again for your time and sharing your abilities with us.
     
  29. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Trent and I talked today, came up with a plan. Will have them very soon, hold tight guys! It’s worth the wait I promise!


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  30. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Dented the builders kit emitter today. Very different animal compared to the FX kit


    Machined up a quick adapter to protect the threads
    1e95d20f272e597edccf424a0bb6b86f.jpg

    A lot more heat was required, did my “halo” around the emitter, then had to do each dent 1 at a time. Usually I can dent them all in 1 pass of heat.

    Not with this beefy emitter

    But end result came out great!!

    efff5f065f2453f563e5abafb0a28186.jpg



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  31. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Updates

    - 10/8/18 Added TrooperTrent's V3 Clamp template to post #1,2,3 & 4​
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
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  32. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Updates

    - 10/8/18 Added TrooperTrent's Clamp template tutorial to post #4
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
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  33. Peep Williams

    Peep Williams Active Member

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    Great work halliwax, the only issue I am having is turning the mystery chunk's shaft down in diameter with sandpaper or files and my drill. I feel like it's hardly doing anything at all to the diameter.
     
  34. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Takes a long long time, turn the drill slowly, and push the file up into it

    Be sure to clean the file out

    The leather tool is steel so it will take some time to turn down

    Keep at it!


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  35. jorged123

    jorged123 New Member

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    I got the V3 template on my TGS clamp! The clamp is a little wider than most, but it lines up perfectly with the hole when placing a little extra template on the right(?) side. Now I just need a little bit of handrail to center punch, pilot, and finish. I'm gonna get one of those stepping drill bits. Thanks to Trooper_Trent and Halliwax. I also got the inward tabs ground off with my dremel.
    Graflex Left V3.jpg Graflex Middle V3.jpg Graflex Right V3.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2018
  36. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Excellent! So now we know it fits a vintage, romans, and TGS perfectly!!

    Thanks for sharing this with us!


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  37. jorged123

    jorged123 New Member

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    I can also report that the clamp fits, awesome! I also love my Slothfurnace Otis ESB silver soldered option card! This is gonna be a great build!
    Templated.jpg
     
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  38. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Wicked!!


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  39. jorged123

    jorged123 New Member

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    Got the center punches and templates off now. Drill and tap time! I have stainless grub screws. Is that a problem? I like Halliwax's black grub screws. Are they supposed to be aluminum like the hilt?
     
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  40. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I went with black oxidize finish, it looks as though that’s what the v3 has. The v2 defiantly has them

    Don’t forget stainless and aluminum don’t like each other. Grease them, or they may bond to each other. Stripping these small 1.5mm sockets is fairly easy


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  41. CAKComedyProps

    CAKComedyProps Active Member

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    Can't wait for my v2 to arrive, and this thread is going to be super helpful. I wanna join the v2 party!
     
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  42. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    V2 party, that’s my shed every weekend ;)


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  43. jorged123

    jorged123 New Member

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    Don't forget our beloved V3! I'll start working on my V2 after I get the V3 where I like it. I figure the V2 with stencil kit provided by trooper_trent will probably take much more of my free time-so I put it off for now & I need roy's clamp lever/greeblie along with another TGS clamp-the blemished one I got was almost perfect. I'll hopefully also have my mystery chunk on order by Dann received in the near future.

    Can't wait to see your production V3 weathering/painting tutorial-halliwax! I'm still catching up on the grub screw and clamp tutorials, waiting on tools and parts! Any suggested rattle cans brands or colors would be appreciated. Thanks!
     
  44. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Have you seen the starkiller fx master thread of mine? That thread has all the correct colors to get the finish as close to were it is today

    Matter of fact I’m working in my driveway give me a second

    This is what you want for the V2, and this is what I plan on using for my v3. I’m gonna fool around with different colors for the windvane, but the majority of the v3 will have the same colors, just different style of applying them

    77e75902c70a3aa7e2b524ec77bf1fe8.jpg

    001291f681b3e0d7fc031f6d19166e6d.jpg

    Right now I’m busy with finishing up a pile of V2 for clients. I had a rain day so I got a fool around on a pop secret project, hopefully I can reveal that with in the next 2 weeks.

    Working at home today the mail man JUST dropped off my final parts required to finish, so now I need to finish these V2 commissions, then finish my project. Once that project is done, I can do my v3

    So be on the look out! ;)


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  45. jorged123

    jorged123 New Member

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    Halliwax, thank you for the rattle can sku's. I just got them at Lowe's. Guess you're not going for the bronze/copper painted look, then. I might color mine a bit towards that way in the thin neck pre emitter. Guess I can get lots of good ideas for the V2 on your master thread. I've seen the videos, but now I'll definitely read your write up and comments. Thanks again!
     
  46. Trooper_trent

    Trooper_trent Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    nevermind.
     
  47. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    c436afa6f9f887287822f7fc3b355d2a.jpg


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  48. jorged123

    jorged123 New Member

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    I got some black oxidize, 5mm, grub screws at Lowe's. They didn't have 3mm. Guess I could maybe paint the face of one of my 3mm, stainless grub screws flat black. I'll definitely grease all the loose hanging screws slightly. Lithium white grease, right? I bought some at an O'Reilly's auto parts store-big tube. Thanks again!
     
  49. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I swear by the lithium grease because it’s water proof. And I use it on my bicycles and never have a problem. For my automotive stuff I use copper anti seize

    Anything will do as long as it’s greased ;)


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  50. jorged123

    jorged123 New Member

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    Top Secret Project! I'm intrigued. I hope it's another Star Wars related prop. If not, that's cool-too. I'll be following any posts that you put up!

    I can see why you get clients. The amount of detail you put showcasing your capabilities here on the forums should be a great selling point! I hope I can do half as good a job on my 2 Starkillers builders' kits as you show us.
     

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