Anakin Starkiller RoTJ Hero Finishing Tutorial Thread

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Inigou

Well-Known Member
Yes, but only after I reduced 90% of the STL mesh! Now the file is 7MB and my slicer can deal with it easier. I also changed the size to 47.4 x 14.4mm so it can fit the box. I already have some T-shape edges and L-shape plastic profiles to use instead of Dan's stuff. I think the brass stock he shipped don't have sharp enough corners. I'll send some images soon.
No need for me to reduce size. 80mb is totally fine with form 2. I always decimate all my stuff to that size.
Anyway, When someone take the time and effort to clean and remodel something and share for free, complaining about file size is not what I would expect.
 
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roygilsing

Master Member
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No need for me to reduce size. 80mb is totally fine with form 2. I always decimate all my stuff to that size.
Anyway, When someone take the time and effort to clean and remodel something and share for free, complaining about file size is not what I expect.
Hi Inigou,
I guess I owe you an apology. You are right, it doesn't sound very appreciative! Thanks for sharing this. I printed it and will paint it is soon. It's a great idea to build the internals as a 3D print. I have been looking for a while for a vintage green pcb with similar parts, but haven't found anything. This is a fun approach!
 

Inigou

Well-Known Member
Hi Inigou,
I guess I owe you an apology. You are right, it doesn't sound very appreciative! Thanks for sharing this. I printed it and will paint it is soon. It's a great idea to build the internals as a 3D print. I have been looking for a while for a vintage green pcb with similar parts, but haven't found anything. This is a fun approach!
Ok, no problem.
The card was originally modeled by Dave Parkin for his Static hero run, a really great replica IMO.
But was to faceted. I simply remodeled it.
 

Metaphysics

Member
I'm attempting to repaint the thin neck and upper control box on Lukyanov's CU with the Antique Gold technique for an "idealized" Luke. So far I've tried and failed. I heated up my paint but it just came out really dark and speckly. I primed the bare brass first as I thought because it wasn't aluminum like the AS kit it would affect the color. What am I doing wrong? Pls help!
 

BRRogers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I'm attempting to repaint the thin neck and upper control box on Lukyanov's CU with the Antique Gold technique for an "idealized" Luke. So far I've tried and failed. I heated up my paint but it just came out really dark and speckly. I primed the bare brass first as I thought because it wasn't aluminum like the AS kit it would affect the color. What am I doing wrong? Pls help!
What is the temperature and humidity in your area now?
I may not be you-
Sometimes the can of paint may also just be bad even after mixing. Sometimes they sit on the shelf a long time... some folks have had similar problems and have been forced to find ‘newer cans’
 

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Metaphysics

Member
What is the temperature and humidity in your area now?
I may not be you-
Sometimes the can of paint may also just be bad even after mixing. Sometimes they sit on the shelf a long time... some folks have had similar problems and have been forced to find ‘newer cans’
It's nearly 90°F where I'm at. I did the first few coats outside before realizing that could be badly affecting the finish, then I moved inside where I have air conditioning.
 

BRRogers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
It's nearly 90°F where I'm at. I did the first few coats outside before realizing that could be badly affecting the finish, then I moved inside where I have air conditioning.
Next question: is the primer ALSO ace brand? And have you been re-coating according to the recommended wait time?
Sometimes primer and topcoats don’t interact well between brands.
Basically.... it could be a LOT of different things.

To touch on temp. 90° is fine (helps curing) but Humidity plays a large role as well especially with paint composition and atomization
 

Metaphysics

Member
Next question: is the primer ALSO ace brand? And have you been re-coating according to the recommended wait time?
Sometimes primer and topcoats don’t interact well between brands.
Basically.... it could be a LOT of different things.

To touch on temp. 90° is fine (helps curing) but Humidity plays a large role as well especially with paint composition and atomization
Primer is not ACE, will try that next time. Thank you.
 

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Too hot to paint in my own opinion.. I’ve been struggling with this the last 2 weeks.

Also like Bryan says, don’t mix brands. Rustoleum with rustoleum, krylon with krylon
 

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Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Dave’s rings are alittle loose in the pommel cube I’m designing a spacer/holder to be able to get the tri ring to stay upright

I’ll throw the file on shapeways once I get it sorted
 

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
So I had a night off last night, I designed a “plug” that pressure fits into the pommel cube on the starkiller

Then you cut 3mm out of DaveP’s beautiful rings and leave the edges of the cut sharp. DO NOT sand them

Use a vise to press the tri ring into the cube, biting into the 3d print

This allows the tri ring to be centered, and gives resistance to the point where you can get it to stand up like we see in that photo with hamill

IMG_6869.jpg

IMG_6870.jpg
 

Kylash

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Well I managed to mess mine up beyond repair. I attached a new steel tri-ring from Dave (denting a corner of a cube in the process) and decided to try to rust it while it was on, so I dipped the pommel into some vinegar and hydrogen peroxide mix for a few minutes, not thinking it would affect the aluminum. Well it started discoloring spots omn the aluminum and all the sanding and steel wooling i tried didnt remove it. Other than that my saber was almost done.

This is the second ROTJ Hero ive tried finishing, but I always have trouble with it, i just have trouble with doing something that has to stay pristine and clean, i always end up with dings and scratches etc. One reason the V2 is more my style. SO ill probably throw my Hero in the junkyard soon because this was kind of my last straw.
 

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Dewy

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Now with 2ish fresh coats of satin canyon black. How long do you recommend waiting to take off the masking? Edit- never mind, masking came off cleanly after ~1 hour in 75°F.


IMG_5664.jpg
 
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Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Honestly with my weather here I wait 3 days

Thankfully the heat is now gone, today is the second day in a row that is normal
 

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