Anakin Starkiller’s Darth Maul Assembly Tutorial Thread

Gregatron

Sr Member
so does that mean this cone design was sculpted? I think it's crazy they found a machine part for the similar looking junk part from TFA. Was there a real world item that was used to inspire this cone shape on the ep. 1 sabers?
Mind you, I'm not saying that the cone fins aren't equidistant in their spacing between each other. I'm saying that the placement of the cone on the saber body shaft is such that neither a fin nor the space between two fins is perfectly lined up with 12:00 (the buttons) or 6:00 (where the Covertec would be, assuming an idealized placement that is 180 degrees from the red button).
 

Gregatron

Sr Member
I went with a Phillips head for mine, since that seems to be accurate to the TMP sabers. However, I switched out the stock socket head screw on my Korbanth Obi-Wan ROTS and replaced it with a more accurate 8/32” socket head just like that one, since the later prequel sabers went that route instead of using Phillips.
 

Halliwax

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Sorry for the delay guys, I’ve been overwhelmed this week with rain. Got a few emergency calls for leaks and sump pump failures

I’m cracking away
 

_Lee_

Well-Known Member
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So I've built my full saber and am halfway through my BD version. I used a drill to bore out the end a little so I could fit a nut to hold the rod in. This works a treat. Just insert the nut into the hole and then glue it. You need to make sure it's perfectly flat across the top or even recess it a little. I'll be making the end cap this weekend.

Still can't believe these sabers. They are amazing.
 

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eethan

Sr Member
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good idea!
make sure your Orings are placed properly, I can see on your half saber that they are not, don't know what you did with the full saber ;)
 

_Lee_

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Thanks bud.

Im seeing so many different o-ring set ups. Which one is accurate??
 

eethan

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Thanks bud.

Im seeing so many different o-ring set ups. Which one is accurate??
correct position is against the grooved area, not close to the buttons. Should be just like E Williams just posted. I never seen a version of the saber in the movie with another position than that. If you have one, please post a picture :)
cheers
 

E Williams

Sr Member
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Ok, the cut end file and drilling guide (needs a 1.125" Forstner bit) are posted here:


Here's a drawing of the measurements I used when modeling the cut end detail. You'll need #2 flat Phillips screws, too :)

1558307802052.png
 

Halliwax

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Yeah, I think #2 screws are the way to go. I dropped the original image into Illustrator and checked the proportions based on an overall diameter of 1.125" -- my model did need a couple of tweaks and I think it's in a better place now. Thoughts?

The drill centering collar worked pretty well but I wasn't holding securely enough at first and the bit jumped and took a little out of the edge (battle damage??). The resin is tough, hard stuff! Just have to go slowly and carefully. Maybe there's a better way to do this?

View attachment 1017797 View attachment 1017798
Awesome freak’n job!!!
 

E Williams

Sr Member
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Did you use a paddle bit to bore out the hilt?
I used a 1 1/8" Forstner bit which is the kind that looks like this:
1020827


And this is the specific one I used, $12.45 on amazon (I already had the small Harbor Freight Forstner bit set but it only went up to 1" and the saber needs 1.125)


The smooth round sides let it run inside of the drilling guide versus a paddle/spade bit which I think would jump out of or around in the thing and maybe do more damage than good. The drill guide makes sure the Forstner bit starts out concentric with the saber end.
 

Halliwax

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I used a 1 1/8" Forstner bit which is the kind that looks like this:
View attachment 1020827

And this is the specific one I used, $12.45 on amazon (I already had the small Harbor Freight Forstner bit set but it only went up to 1" and the saber needs 1.125)


The smooth round sides let it run inside of the drilling guide versus a paddle/spade bit which I think would jump out of or around in the thing and maybe do more damage than good. The drill guide makes sure the Forstner bit starts out concentric with the saber end.
Perfect, I always call these things Mortis or Morrison bits.. not even close to the real name lol

I’m finishing up the write up Friday, thanks again for all your help
 

E Williams

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Weathered and covertec-ed my cut Maul:

1558921180060.png


And because I couldn't resist I converted it to a Clone Wars version! :)

The animated show prop's model looks very faithful to the movie prop, overall, with the exception of a black screw in the covertec wheel and a smaller emitter. As a half-hilt, the smaller emitter makes the prop look better balanced overall IMO (maybe the original reason for the change?).

For the modified emitter, I just needed to pick up a few smaller washers. It has two "large" fins/washers versus the TPM version's three. I picked a 5/8 flat washer (Lowe's part 63310) for this which has an outer diameter of just over 1.75" instead of the TPM kit's 2". It's just a bit smaller than the machined emitter plate, matching the show reference. Also printed up a couple adapter rings to help center the new washers on the kit's machined emitter (the inner diameter is larger than the old washers'). The space between the emitter fins looked like it needed to be a little smaller so I replaced the two 1/2" kit washers with some thinner 1/2" flat washers, and used only one 1.5" washer between the larger fins. Because the washer stack is shorter now than the machined emitter plate, I had to drill out the end of the resin hilt to recess the threaded section into the resin.

IMG_6006.JPG

1558921199521.png


I modeled up some guesses at what the cut end detail looks like from the few good shots of it that I could find on the show. It appears to be something of a very simplified version of the Master Replicas cut end detail. A stick-on gem from Michael's, silver paint, and a grungy black paint wash and that part is done.

1558921211930.png


And finished!

1558921222777.png


Cut end detail pieces and washer adapters are all up on the same Thingiverse entry:
 

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Weathered and covertec-ed my cut Maul:

View attachment 1022904

And because I couldn't resist I converted it to a Clone Wars version! :)

The animated show prop's model looks very faithful to the movie prop, overall, with the exception of a black screw in the covertec wheel and a smaller emitter. As a half-hilt, the smaller emitter makes the prop look better balanced overall IMO (maybe the original reason for the change?).

For the modified emitter, I just needed to pick up a few smaller washers. It has two "large" fins/washers versus the TPM version's three. I picked a 5/8 flat washer (Lowe's part 63310) for this which has an outer diameter of just over 1.75" instead of the TPM kit's 2". It's just a bit smaller than the machined emitter plate, matching the show reference. Also printed up a couple adapter rings to help center the new washers on the kit's machined emitter (the inner diameter is larger than the old washers'). The space between the emitter fins looked like it needed to be a little smaller so I replaced the two 1/2" kit washers with some thinner 1/2" flat washers, and used only one 1.5" washer between the larger fins. Because the washer stack is shorter now than the machined emitter plate, I had to drill out the end of the resin hilt to recess the threaded section into the resin.

View attachment 1022908

View attachment 1022905

I modeled up some guesses at what the cut end detail looks like from the few good shots of it that I could find on the show. It appears to be something of a very simplified version of the Master Replicas cut end detail. A stick-on gem from Michael's, silver paint, and a grungy black paint wash and that part is done.

View attachment 1022906

And finished!

View attachment 1022907

Cut end detail pieces and washer adapters are all up on the same Thingiverse entry:
Very very cool!!! Thanks for sharing!!
 

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
great thread! Where is everyone buying their covertec wheel in the US?
I grabbed mine off eBay. Tight on funds I had to wait a week before purchasing.. when I went to purchase they were all gone. Took roughly another week for a set to be up there

Figured it was because of Starkiller’s latest run lol
 
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