Anakin Starkiller’s Darth Maul Assembly Tutorial Thread

E Williams

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Here's the Clone Wars version... not a lot to go on but it's somewhat simpler than the cut end on the Master Replicas. Looks like there may be some additional detail around the gem but I couldn't find any better shots. Is there some concept art out there somewhere?

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jorged123

Member
Got mine together. Thanks, Halliwax, for the threaded rod tutorial and assembly tutorial. I used a thin brass center washer from Hillman, it works great. I like the ability to slide the center alignment with a more slippery material. I asked Mister starkiller what he used, and he said a metal washer that he found in his spare parts. I like that choice, too-so I did similarly. I didn't even have to bore the center of the hilts to get them aligned. Guess I'll weather the washers and end cap when I get my V2 out.
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Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Looks great Jorge!! My covertec’s are officially lost, got some more coming...
 

Patlegrand

Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Hello !

I recently received 2 kits. Its just amazing!

But, I have some difficulties to get the materials... The threaded rod especially, i live in France, should i get a PNC threaded with 8,5 mm diameter ? Same problem with the washer ! ( can i use a steel washer or nylon si betterave ?)

Thanks!
 

eethan

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
any washer will work, just pick a thickness that will allow your O ring to sit correctly without going between both halves.

I'm also in France and used a M10 rod after rethreading the end emiters. I don't recommend that if you are not experienced with threading long metal parts.

apart from that, there is a run in the junkyard for 3/8 rods from US and you can find some on ebay in germany or england.
good luck :)
 

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
any washer will work, just pick a thickness that will allow your O ring to sit correctly without going between both halves.

I'm also in France and used a M10 rod after rethreading the end emiters. I don't recommend that if you are not experienced with threading long metal parts.

apart from that, there is a run in the junkyard for 3/8 rods from US and you can find some on ebay in germany or england.
good luck :)
I just quoted your instructions in the run thread not realizing it was you lol

Hey mate, well I just used a metric tapping set that I have, any tap in M10 with a handle will do, but I repeat, this is quite hard to do by hand, the piece was probably tapped with a machine initially, taping an aluminium tube of that length in M10 is no easy task by hand.
I used a pair of pliers to hold the tube while tapping because you need to hold it with quite some force.
The 3/8 and M10 are pretty close, I couldn't see a difference after tapping was finished, it didn't ruin the threads so the pitch must be quite similar.
The M10 rod is a tiny bit larger than a 3/8 rod but it will fit inside the resin halves. One of mine was tighter and I used Halliwax great tip to put the rod on a drill to screw the rod inside the resin half, this was super fast and easy that way and the resin half is well secured.
There is really nothing different with the rest of the assembly, just do that if you feel super confident about rethreading a 3/8 thread to an M10, this is not something you want to try if you never used a tap set.

cheers
It like ethan said, there is a run right now of 3/8-16 rod, might want to hunt down the European organizer who’s gathering a large number of rod to ship over from the states, then he’s going to distribute them once he receives them all to all the euro guys
 

Halliwax

Legendary Member
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Kylash

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I'm wondering how accurate these remake Covertec clips are to originals... I had one back in the day and I recall them being glossy plastic without the mold lines. I know you can still get a later version official coverte clip that comes with the same wheel, I'm curious if those are cleaner.

I went ahead and did the button color repaint and painted the inner washers and emitter inserts and still finished in in about an hour.
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JoeG

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Here's the covertec wheel I'm using on my saber. I've had it since the early 2000s.
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Kylash

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Here's another hero reference shot. To me it almost looks like that covertec wheel isnt 180 degrees on the opposite end of he buttons, it looks slightly to the right, if looking down the emitter.

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Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
IMG_9532.jpg


Kinda looks like it’s sitting in between those 2 fins on the emitter... hmmmm
 

E Williams

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

Gregatron

Sr Member
I used photos of the EFX replica when aligning my Covertec (which has a flat-finish and mold lines, as have all of the others I've ever bought). I went with somewhere around 6:00-7:00 for the positioning (with the red button at 12:00). Just slightly off-center, rather than 180 degrees from the red button. The emitter fins are not evenly spaced. One of them is closer to 6:00 than the next one over.
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I used photos of the EFX replica when aligning my Covertec (which has a flat-finish and mold lines, as have all of the others I've ever bought). I went with somewhere around 6:00-7:00 for the positioning (with the red button at 12:00). Just slightly off-center, rather than 180 degrees from the red button. The emitter fins are not evenly spaced. One of them is closer to 6:00 than the next one over.
so does that mean this cone design was sculpted? I think it's crazy they found a machine part for the similar looking junk part from TFA. Was there a real world item that was used to inspire this cone shape on the ep. 1 sabers?
 
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