Prop Replica STL files Section Free Personal Use

knight 8 pic.jpg

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The knight from Indian in the Cupboard.
Revised from an earlier version.
Revised 2/4/25.
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Free for personal use.
 

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Final Fleur De Li 2025  v5 pic.jpg

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Might as well add another STL as long as I'm on a roll.

From the Da Vinci Code, the Fleur De Li bank key.

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Free for personal use.
 

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I wish this thing had trumpets.....

Jod / captain silvo belt ornament from Star Wars Skeleton Crew

So, today is the day that I finally get to add something to this thread and by no small surprise it was because Jintosh helped us :)

This was a team effort and the list of people who worked on this is here:

Thread 'Skeleton Crew Jod Buckle' Skeleton Crew Jod Buckle

These files are sized to fit a 1.75 inch width belt but can obviously be scaled to match any belt so it works with your body size for cosplay matching. They are NOT actual buckles and therefore require a full belt and buckle to pair with. These simply slide onto the belt strap as ornamentation.

One is made to be screen similar in build but the other was made flat for anyone who wishes to avoid printing support materials. We have since tested and shown that even hot water can be used to bend these if you wish to have the belt loops going slightly back.

20250213_141236.jpg


My print on left, screen cap from Skeleton Crew on the right:

20250211_130338.jpg
 

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If the rod path was open and rod inserted after, are there some competent adhesives that would be tantamount to having printed around the rod? Is there an industry standard filler? Assuming as well that each filament or print media likely uses something different as an adhesive?

Is there such a thing as spot welding a 3d print like they have for fixing dashboards in cars? I know I am walking outside the normal realm of printing. Does therpf have a thread for 3d print questions? I'll be the first to admit, I come to this thread.
Yes we spot weld with filament and a wood burner. Rubber cement or Barge Contact is what I use for all PLA and PLA +. I would approach a sword in this way. Print parts. Assemble around the rod using contact cement. Then fill the gaps and layer lines with wood filler and sand. Wood filler and sand. Wood filler and sand, wet sand then Automotive filler primer. Sand then one more round of primer and sand. You will have a beautiful finish that will hold a metallic paint job quite well if you prime with a glossy black paint.
 
Just a suggestion on the Green Hornet mask. 3D printed form-fitting masks often require file modification and some heat-forming for a good fit. Instead I would suggest using leather and do the same form-fitting work with water on your own face - or your client. There are a number of how-to videos on-line. Plus leather is a more accurate material for the mask and the period.
 
Just a suggestion on the Green Hornet mask. 3D printed form-fitting masks often require file modification and some heat-forming for a good fit. Instead I would suggest using leather and do the same form-fitting work with water on your own face - or your client. There are a number of how-to videos on-line. Plus leather is a more accurate material for the mask and the period.
My wife just finished a class project with her 7th graders where everyone started with the flat piece and have been shaping using the wet methods. I will see if I can get her to hand me some good finish pics of the classes final results. She does these as one offs and has produced many that were equivalent to the ballroom scene in Labyrinth.

I hadn't even thought about this process until you mentioned it but these 3d prints would be wonderful to incorporate as step one, shaping the flat leather to a printed image and only after placing it slightly moistened on the bust of the intended recipient for final fitting.

Replica accurate design but fitted individually. Not a bad gig really. Seeing how 3d prints can be scaled, it would make for a seriously accurate process.
 
I wish this thing had trumpets.....

Jod / captain silvo belt ornament from Star Wars Skeleton Crew

So, today is the day that I finally get to add something to this thread and by no small surprise it was because Jintosh helped us :)

This was a team effort and the list of people who worked on this is here:

Thread 'Skeleton Crew Jod Buckle' Skeleton Crew Jod Buckle

These files are sized to fit a 1.75 inch width belt but can obviously be scaled to match any belt so it works with your body size for cosplay matching. They are NOT actual buckles and therefore require a full belt and buckle to pair with. These simply slide onto the belt strap as ornamentation.

One is made to be screen similar in build but the other was made flat for anyone who wishes to avoid printing support materials. We have since tested and shown that even hot water can be used to bend these if you wish to have the belt loops going slightly back.

View attachment 1905574

My print on left, screen cap from Skeleton Crew on the right:

View attachment 1905573

I came back around to edit my rant because I found that is a fellow rpfer that was using this and the pistol for decoration on the clothing sales they have going, 3d prints not included. And I'm covering my tracks fast because they made the long coat and it looks awesome..... and I want one so I have to put out the fire on this burning bridge..... fate loves slapping me around.

nawood-buckle.gif
 
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I’m sure this happens more times than we know. I heard lots of recast stories over the years.

Free files are great as are those artists willing to share them, unfortunately it can lead to quality issues down the road.

I’ll neve forget the first printed kit I got. I was looking around and noticed that so many of them had a ridiculous amount print lines that would be a nightmare to sand. Then I found a guy (same blaster) who’s looked almost as good as ABS. I inquired and he basically said that so many guys are just taking files they find and printing and printing them (quickly) without any optimization. What may look as a render doesn’t necessarily translate into a model and that his kits were his own designs.
 
I love the sharing and always will. My only gripe is them claiming they designed it (edit 3/1/25 note me eating crow in post 310 above) which actually then turns into one of my favorite compliments. When someone uses our work for their cosplay or personal use, it is a huge compliment. When someone steals your stuff and sells copies, it is a bigger compliment because that person is taking a risk so would likely go with the better version that could be found. But the ultimate compliment is having someone selling it and claiming the artistic credit because they are bragging about their "design team". Truthfully, I expected it, don't get me wrong, totally expected it, but wow it was waaaaaay fast. On the upcoming Adam Ant buckles, I really hope someone steals it and makes brass copies so I can list them as a source for the buckle.
 
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I’m sure this happens more times than we know. I heard lots of recast stories over the years.

Free files are great as are those artists willing to share them, unfortunately it can lead to quality issues down the road.

I’ll neve forget the first printed kit I got. I was looking around and noticed that so many of them had a ridiculous amount print lines that would be a nightmare to sand. Then I found a guy (same blaster) who’s looked almost as good as ABS. I inquired and he basically said that so many guys are just taking files they find and printing and printing them (quickly) without any optimization. What may look as a render doesn’t necessarily translate into a model and that his kits were his own designs.
Ewwww, gross. Print lines on a statue or figure are indeed a nightmare. That is why I prefer resin for that sort of thing. I stumbled across a resin called t74 used for action figures. It is as strong as molded plastic can be. That is what I print in. A bit more costly but worth it in the end. Post processing FDM statuary and figures is almost an impossibility. You start sanding away all detail very fast.
 
I love the sharing and always will. My only gripe is them claiming they designed it which actually then turns into one of my favorite compliments. When someone uses our work for their cosplay or personal use, it is a huge compliment. When someone steals your stuff and sells copies, it is a bigger compliment because that person is taking a risk so would likely go with the better version that could be found. But the ultimate compliment is having someone selling it and claiming the artistic credit because they are bragging about their "design team". Truthfully, I expected it, don't get me wrong, totally expected it, but wow it was waaaaaay fast. On the upcoming Adam Ant buckles, I really hope someone steals it and makes brass copies so I can list them as a source for the buckle.
I make DEVING files. The price reflects that. Price of the files. The cowls I make go for around 200 bucks for the file. That gives me the right as a maker to make and sell the finished product if I dare to on my own. I mean... The Dark Knight, Spiderman, etc... they are licensed so you only get so far before they tell you to cut em in or cut it out.
 
I’m sure this happens more times than we know. I heard lots of recast stories over the years.

Free files are great as are those artists willing to share them, unfortunately it can lead to quality issues down the road.

I’ll neve forget the first printed kit I got. I was looking around and noticed that so many of them had a ridiculous amount print lines that would be a nightmare to sand. Then I found a guy (same blaster) who’s looked almost as good as ABS. I inquired and he basically said that so many guys are just taking files they find and printing and printing them (quickly) without any optimization. What may look as a render doesn’t necessarily translate into a model and that his kits were his own designs.
Back to FDM layer lines though... yeah if you are doing larger cosplay pieces those machines are PERFECT. The larger surface areas make it easier to get the needed glass like finish to mold and cast. It is still hard a$$ work though. Then casting is yet another art. Cutting, etc. A lot goes into the process which leave the laymen ignorant as to why a product will cost so much. We are not factories. We are craftsman. Some will say if you use printers at all you are not a craftsman. I beg to differ. Most people who design wearable cowls could not mold and cast one. I know that for a fact. I am casting a cowl for BUDWIN this upcoming week. A cowl of HIS design. That way he can see that someone actually can take his work to the end result you know? He has designed a TON of free and paid cosplay pieces. He as an individual tells everyone to sell his stuff once it comes off the bed.. he does not care.
I think it is a subjective thing I guess. I just want everyone to feel respected in the end, so I talk to the actual designer if I plan on producing something to sell. Truth be told... if I cannot sell it, I will usually not make it.
 
Collection of Haslab Ghostbusters mods (Proton pack and Two In The Box) that I've made so far.

Pack / Neutrona wand;
Sled and end cap for CNLINKO connectors: Spengler wand sled and end cap for CNLINKO LP-20 Remixed by Dave W
Cyclotron plug (to add your own real wires): Ghostbusters Haslab Proton pack cyclotron plug by Dave W
Neutrona wand internal frame for Frutto / GPStar bargraph upgrade: Spengler Neutrona wall Fruit bar graph frame v2 by Dave W
Alice pack 84 style spacers (with the "puck" design): Haslab Proton Pack Alice pack frame spacers by Dave W

Two In The Box Trap, Pedal and PKE;
Trap bars - GB1 sounds: Haslab Ghostbusters Two In The Box trap bars v2 by Dave W
Trap bars - GB2 sounds: Two In the Box ghost trap bars - GB2 version by Dave W
Slime covered (modular) trap bars: Ghostbusters Haslab ghost trap slime covered bars by Dave W
Screw on connector caps for the pedal and trap: Haslab Two In The Box ghost trap connector cover by Dave W
Replacement screw covers (once you've taken it apart!): Haslab Two In The Box ghost trap screw cover/plugs by Dave W
Trap pedal wall hanger: Haslab Two In The Box trap pedal wall hanger - V2 by Dave W
PKE Meter wall hanger: PKE wall mount from the Two In The Box by Dave W
Matching cable hanger: Cable hanger for the GB Two In The Box ghost trap by Dave W
 
So speaking of of print lines!

I really need a project to work on. I found this on eBay and asked if he would make it for me unfinished. He was super cool and said that he would, but then I took a closer look. No way am I sanding this….

IMG_4513.jpeg


Far too often I see guys that just spray a single coat of filler on there (or not even bother), paint it and be done with it? To me that would be like having all my blasters on display with the orange muzzle tips attached. If you’re gonna do something it should look like the material it was intended to be.

It’s one thing when it’s a relative flat surface or even pieces of gun, while curved, so long as the details aren’t compromised, fine, but that would be impossible to sand those lines off that pommel.

Anyway, that leads me to my question… If I bought the file, would someone here be willing to print it for me in resin for a fee?

 
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