Products that were not intended to be used in model making but work anyway
- Thread starter joberg
- Start date
gedmac66
Sr Member
Guns Akimbo
Sr Member
Forgot exactly which modeling forum I found this on, but credit goes to the original poster. Why pay for expensive "rust powders" when you can use...real rust? 
"I even use real rust on my models. I put some fine steel wool in a larger sized pill bottle and cover it with white vinegar. After about 3 to 4 weeks, after the steel wool is dissolved, I pour it out into a stainless steel photographic tray and wait for the vinegar to evaporate. After it is dry, I use a paint scraper (razor blade type) to scrape out the rust. I comes out as a fine powder which I apply to my models with some Elmer´s glue. After that dries and after weathering the model with a black wash I use the Model Masters flat, clear acrylic for the topcoat. I am quite amazed at how realistic I can make a plastic model look like a metal one. I have read many articles on weathering using paints to simulate the rust look, but nothing looks better than using actual iron oxide as my rusting agent."
"I even use real rust on my models. I put some fine steel wool in a larger sized pill bottle and cover it with white vinegar. After about 3 to 4 weeks, after the steel wool is dissolved, I pour it out into a stainless steel photographic tray and wait for the vinegar to evaporate. After it is dry, I use a paint scraper (razor blade type) to scrape out the rust. I comes out as a fine powder which I apply to my models with some Elmer´s glue. After that dries and after weathering the model with a black wash I use the Model Masters flat, clear acrylic for the topcoat. I am quite amazed at how realistic I can make a plastic model look like a metal one. I have read many articles on weathering using paints to simulate the rust look, but nothing looks better than using actual iron oxide as my rusting agent."
Hagoth
Sr Member
Don't know if this is the same source but here's a video of the technique and results.Forgot exactly which modeling forum I found this on, but credit goes to the original poster. Why pay for expensive "rust powders" when you can use...real rust?
"I even use real rust on my models. I put some fine steel wool in a larger sized pill bottle and cover it with white vinegar. After about 3 to 4 weeks, after the steel wool is dissolved, I pour it out into a stainless steel photographic tray and wait for the vinegar to evaporate. After it is dry, I use a paint scraper (razor blade type) to scrape out the rust. I comes out as a fine powder which I apply to my models with some Elmer´s glue. After that dries and after weathering the model with a black wash I use the Model Masters flat, clear acrylic for the topcoat. I am quite amazed at how realistic I can make a plastic model look like a metal one. I have read many articles on weathering using paints to simulate the rust look, but nothing looks better than using actual iron oxide as my rusting agent."
Guns Akimbo
Sr Member
This thread is gold. Maybe it should be stickied.
JediMichael
Master Member
Heres a few. Like these Christmas balls that I had gotten for the domes on a star destroyer, that I ended up not liking anyways.
So when I made this ship from the game, Wipeout, I used the top hanging part as engine detail.
Then I found that this red round lego part, with some paper added fit nicely into this little tube. It became the main thruster.
And speaking of thrusters, these water bottle tops fit perfectly into this pvc pipe and became detail for my Starcraft battlecruiser.
So when I made this ship from the game, Wipeout, I used the top hanging part as engine detail.
Then I found that this red round lego part, with some paper added fit nicely into this little tube. It became the main thruster.
And speaking of thrusters, these water bottle tops fit perfectly into this pvc pipe and became detail for my Starcraft battlecruiser.
Hagoth
Sr Member
Colored sawdust, medium to very fine and dyed with various greens and yellows or left natural makes great grass/dirt texture
Some types of lichen like Wolf and Letharia make for great bushes and trees or sniper figure brush camo.
Course sand paper cut into small rectangles makes good miniature asphalt shingles.
Big pieces for paved road bed. Tear it and you have a road crack.
Fine sand paper makes for good non-slip surface texture
Rubber cement saturated paper makes for great miniature hinges
Springs from ball point pens make great shock absorbers that have a bit of actual functionality.
Support material structures from 3D prints make great interior structure looking parts. Grid is especially nice.
3D print outline skirts make great raised surface detailing lines and shapes.
Tinfoil makes great simulated metal skin on all kinds of things.
Cheap makeup creates great weathering effects and comes with an applicator brush.
Some types of lichen like Wolf and Letharia make for great bushes and trees or sniper figure brush camo.
Course sand paper cut into small rectangles makes good miniature asphalt shingles.
Big pieces for paved road bed. Tear it and you have a road crack.
Fine sand paper makes for good non-slip surface texture
Rubber cement saturated paper makes for great miniature hinges
Springs from ball point pens make great shock absorbers that have a bit of actual functionality.
Support material structures from 3D prints make great interior structure looking parts. Grid is especially nice.
3D print outline skirts make great raised surface detailing lines and shapes.
Tinfoil makes great simulated metal skin on all kinds of things.
Cheap makeup creates great weathering effects and comes with an applicator brush.
ID10T
Sr Member
I want to weather/dirty some soft parts of a costume NON-PERMANENTLY. I know about "Dirty-Down" from the UK but I can't get it (or at least I can't find it) here in the USA.
Can you guys share your washable weathering techniques; or divulge your source for the Dirty-Down here in the USA?
Thanks!
Can you guys share your washable weathering techniques; or divulge your source for the Dirty-Down here in the USA?
Thanks!
Elmer glue tips can be pulled off and re-inserted to make chemical nozzles
Bauble
Well-Known Member
Not exactly found objects, but this person on etsy sells cheap photoetch that I use a lot of in my scratchbuilds.
www.etsy.com
Set of Photo-etched Hooks, Grilles, Pedals, IMSA Nets and Other Small Parts for Racing GT and Sports Cars 1:43 Scale Models - Etsy
This Craft Supplies & Tools item by GeminiModelcars has 12 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from France. Listed on Mar 18, 2024
www.etsy.com
division 6
Master Member
Great paint remover.
Eagle-1
Sr Member
Great paint remover.
And chrome. I wouldn't attempt to use anything else for paint or chrome.
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