TOS Communicator Build

Could the metal Communicator parts available on Ebay be adapted to your design?
I think it would be easier and better to adapt this design to the metal parts. If you know your way around 3d modeling software a little, STEP files are included in the kit which let you edit all of the parts to your heart's content before printing.

It wouldn't take a lot, though - mainly reducing the size of the hole for the antenna axle so it'd fit a 1/8" brass rod. There are even stop-pin cavities already built in. I would be willing to bet that the eBay metal midplates would work just fine too, since this model was built from the blueprints that everyone uses for reference, made from laser scans of Alpha & Zeta.

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It would take a little more modification to use metal T-Jets, but I think that 3d-printed plastic knobs and gem mounts painted with a Molotow "Liquid Chrome" pen or similar are closer to being set-accurate, since the original T-jets were chrome-plated plastic. The visible T-Jet parts in this kit are highly accurate, but all bets are off when you get below the surface; it was optimized for easy printing and assembly. I did include an accurate 3d model of a full T-Jet just to play with.
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Since I made my last video of my communicator's sound & animation, I have replaced the shell with my latest texture settings and rebuilt the moire elements top to bottom. I figured it was time for another one. I'm still working on a new antenna and a more convincing control panel plate, as well as exploring ways to reduce the sound delay and possibly adding multiple randomized chirping sounds. I'll finish this thing someday. Maybe.

Note that the version available for download does not have the hollowed out shells or other modifications needed to do this (but STEP files are included so you can edit to your heart's content)

 
Wow so cool build!
I've modelled and 3D printed my own version a few years back but never finished. Congratulations for your spectacular build. Great inspiration for me!
I've experimented with fuzzy skin feature in Prusa Slicer and the surface came out really well.
 
It's time for another moire rebuild! I finally decided to bite the bullet and go 2 part with the 3d-printed housing/bezel. This gets me 3 things:
  1. It's a whole lot easier to assemble without getting any visible glue on the clear disc
  2. Allows the interface with the top shell to be more accurate (small gap under the bottom edge of the bezel ring)
  3. Produces that alternating pattern around the perimeter that Alpha & Beta have
I also ordered a pack of laser-printable waterslide decal sheets, and they are awesome! The clear sticker paper I was using before was pretty good, but it was noticeably bumpy when the light reflected off of it.

This build is almost finished - I just need to attach the wires and take a dremel to the shell to cut it down to only what's necessary to keep the gears in place.

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This is really fantastic! I'm hoping to start building my own communicator based on your files. I'm planning to add some electronics and design a custom PCB that will let the communicator function as a bluetooth phone. I was wondering: after you’ve added the moiré setup, do you know how much internal space is left in the bottom section of the print? Just trying to get a rough idea of what kind of footprint I’ll have to work with for the PCB so I can decide if this is feasible. Thanks!
 
This is really fantastic! I'm hoping to start building my own communicator based on your files. I'm planning to add some electronics and design a custom PCB that will let the communicator function as a bluetooth phone. I was wondering: after you’ve added the moiré setup, do you know how much internal space is left in the bottom section of the print? Just trying to get a rough idea of what kind of footprint I’ll have to work with for the PCB so I can decide if this is feasible. Thanks!

In mine, the top is completely full of clock, and the bottom half full of battery. The lower part of the front the shell has a cavity to work with above the midplate that's about 7 x 30 x 55mm, slightly deeper in the small area below the control panel. Mine is loosely filled with a DFPlayer board, an SD card, and a speaker, thought my speaker mounting method could be greatly optimized.

One of my goals was having nothing glued into the shell, so all of the internal components and wiring can be easily swapped into another shell in a matter of minutes, the whole thing held together with 2 screws. Part of what I did to make this happen was a cam that rotates on a post to lock the tiny speaker in place, which also makes a very good physical connection that lets the speaker use the whole shell to resonate.

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So with the step file I could convert back to a drawable file and and just use the shell function to hollow out the top and bottom?
 
So with the step file I could convert back to a drawable file and and just use the shell function to hollow out the top and bottom?
The shell model was lofted from many cross section views, and the shell functions in either Fusion or Onshape don't seem to like hollowing it out. It would probably be safer to build a model of the hollow area and do a boolean subtraction. There have been enough of these kinds of requests that I may add a hollowed-out version of the shells with a matching midplate to the release.
 
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