My PKD Bladerunner pistol build.

[Stonehavensteve]

Received the fillister screw to replace the Weaver knob, but the diameter of the head seems a bit too small. Hmmm.

Anyone have any sources for an accurate screw?

Hi Folks,

I just found this thread today and am interested in your builds as I'm currently printing out the AndersFP model on my resin printer (Although I did purchase the resin grips of TipTopWorkshop - and ther're great).

I was going to respond on the Fillister screw for a couple of reasons (one being the size).

1. Can someone give me a reference photo of the fillister fitted to the hero prop. Most of the reference photos I have are post 2006 and have the screw with the gradients marked on it.
2. I think the Fillister required is closer to the 1/4"-20 thread part on McMaster-Carr (example pn 90280A842). It's possible to load McMaster-Carr Parts directly into Fusion 360 so I have done the following comparison.

I'm going to try and print some samples out tonight and will post some photos.

 

[Gregatron]

Cool!

 

[Stonehavensteve]

I also created a "quick & dirty" model of a main hammer spring. It's not 100 accurate, but I think should be good enough when seen through the amber grips.

 

[Gregatron]

I haven’t gotten to the mainspring, yet. I have the spring which came with the kit (as well as the domed topper which fits into the divot on the hammer, but I have yet to search for a central bolt or rod to attach them to.

Meanwhile, I test-fitted the triggers and glued the magnets into the clip. All tests were successful.

However, the bolt assembly’s fit/tolerance still needs work, as it binds when sliding open and closed. I also filled a few screw-holes with JB Weld in order to re-drill and re-tap them, because they got stripped during my test-fits.

 

[ComeradeDog88]

Looks great! Just finished mine. Got it of eBay for $90. I have limited resources so even though it may not be entirely accurate, It still looks good in my opinion. Mine is also an Anders model and I think the end result came out great, especially since it’s my first time building one of these. This community that surrounds this film and it’s props is pretty insane. Never really knew it existed until I did my research. Anyway here’s my finished model (just imagine the white wire on the opposite side and the LED’s in as this is an old picture and I’ve only just recently got all the little details on it).

Oh and I’ve also switched out some of the screws for some more accurate ones. Hope y’all like it!!

feel free to give me some feedback as I’m still learning some techniques!

 

[B1RDY]

Hi Folks,

I just found this thread today and am interested in your builds as I'm currently printing out the AndersFP model on my resin printer (Although I did purchase the resin grips of TipTopWorkshop - and ther're great).

I was going to respond on the Fillister screw for a couple of reasons (one being the size).

1. Can someone give me a reference photo of the fillister fitted to the hero prop. Most of the reference photos I have are post 2006 and have the screw with the gradients marked on it.
2. I think the Fillister required is closer to the 1/4"-20 thread part on McMaster-Carr (example pn 90280A842). It's possible to load McMaster-Carr Parts directly into Fusion 360 so I have done the following comparison.
View attachment 1459054

I'm going to try and print some samples out tonight and will post some photos.

Awesome, keeping an eye on this as I ordered a fillister head slotted screw.

 

[Stonehavensteve]

Looks like the head of the 1/4"-20 fillister screw is a perfect size. The resin printed version rubs very slightly against the recess, but I think that's due my resin print being ever so slightly oversize.

I'm still looking for a reference to this screw on the Deckard hero prop. I've only seen.it on the Tomenosuke and the casting of the early stunt blaster - or is that what people are trying to replicate.

 

[Mozzie]

Threads like this make me want to trash my current Andrew Forster and start again!

can you heat up resin to put in brass thread inserts?

 

[B1RDY]

So my

Threads like this make me want to trash my current Andrew Forster and start again!

can you heat up resin to put in brass thread inserts?

You could drill a slightly smaller hole than the threaded inserts for a pressure fit. I tried looking for thread tubing but without success. I am try to use 1.8mm thick M3 nuts which could work in most areas I'm looking at which are hidden on frame but are surface mounted. I tried this on the grip frames and although I need to work on one particular bolt with the grips in place you only see the hammer spring and the lower bolt on the butt which is seen in the reference pictures. I plan on countersinking some and fixing them in place with jb weld or someting.
I cut the offending bolt a bit shorter along with the bottom bolt and they are much less noticeable.

 

[Gregatron]

Looks like the head of the 1/4"-20 fillister screw is a perfect size. The resin printed version rubs very slightly against the recess, but I think that's due my resin print being ever so slightly oversize.

I'm still looking for a reference to this screw on the Deckard hero prop. I've only seen.it on the Tomenosuke and the casting of the early stunt blaster - or is that what people are trying to replicate.

 

[Gregatron]

I ordered product 90280A842 from McMaster-Carr. We’ll see how it looks. Thanks for the research!

 

[B1RDY]

I received some more goodies in the post today. Do you think the fillister screw looks a little small?

 

[joberg]

Yep, too small

 

[Gregatron]

Epoxied alignment pins into the sight/screwdriver piece. By all accounts, the green LEDs did not light up during filming, so I’ll likely keep them static on my build, as well. Of course, the white wires WERE there, but, as I understand it, they were covered by black tape on-set (and thus weren’t “really” supposed to be visible), so I probably won’t include them on mine.

I also successfully re-tapped a few holes, and, with the addition of the triggers and the sight, the test-fit is now complete. It’s a gorgeous replica, especially for 1/5 the price of the Tomenosuke.

Still having a bit of trouble with the bolt action. The next step will be continuing to clean up the parts to prepare them for primer, and working on the tolerance of the moving parts.

Should be receiving the larger (1/4”-20) slotted screw in the next day or two, as well.

 

[wayouteast]

Of course, the white wires WERE there, but, as I understand it, they were covered by black tape on-set (and thus weren’t “really” supposed to be visible), so I probably won’t include them on mine.

I had the same dilemma when I was converting my water-gun blaster some years back. Were they 'canon' or not? It's obviously very much a matter of choice, but I actually came to the opposite decision, based on the fact that in the scene where Batty drags Deckard's hand through the wall there's a very clear close-up of the left side of the blaster with the white wires very visible.

My reasoning was that if the definition of 'canon' is 'appeared in the movie'... then the wires are canon!

 

[Gregatron]

I had the same dilemma when I was converting my water-gun blaster some years back. Were they 'canon' or not? It's obviously very much a matter of choice, but I actually came to the opposite decision, based on the fact that in the scene where Batty drags Deckard's hand through the wall there's a very clear close-up of the left side of the blaster with the white wires very visible.

View attachment 1459361

My reasoning was that if the definition of 'canon' is 'appeared in the movie'... then the wires are canon!

Sort of like the Luke ESB lightsaber screws/notches. Clearly a production compromise to keep the grips on, and therefore not something that’s supposed to be on the “real” weapon...yet they also have a certain aesthetic appeal.

In this case, the wires detract from the clean lines of the design, and were clearly a production compromise—and one which turned out to be failed/unnecessary, since the green LEDs aren’t even visibly illuminated in the film.

Mileage may vary! There’s no right or wrong answer, here.

 

[Gregatron]

Working on sanding the insides of the amber grips so they fit flush to the bulldog frame, and polishing them up for a nice, glass-like appearance.

I’m also building up layers of polish inside the textured diamond grip-patterns to replicate the look of the original.

 

[Gregatron]

Well, I gave the grips a good polish. First with Novus # 3, then # 2. Then, I worked to carefully layer # 2 into the grip texturing. Did a few applications. Still needs a bit of work before the final Novus cleaner/glazing for the rest of the grips.

I also began adding some putty to the rear lip of the bolt, where it should meet flush with the receiver. It’ll take some more work, but the gap is slowly being eliminated. Also, with a little more sanding, the bolt action is much looser, now.

And the alignment pins for the sight are still curing. I may also glue a thin steel rod inside the sight, for structural integrity (while still leaving wiggle-room for wires, should I end up going with illuminated green LEDs).

Also, upon studying screencaps and photos, I may have been mistaken in my assertion that the vertical tube connecting the clip housing and the .44 barrel is too small in the kit.

Meanwhile, the dummy .44 special rounds arrived. I rather like the black coloring—something a bit different (...and more future-noir?) than the standard brass. They fit nicely into the cylinder (might need a bit of sanding to loosen the things up a bit before adding paint), although the rear flanges of the rounds prevented the cylinder from properly closing. Sanding down the front of the cylinder a bit helped fix that.

 

[Gregatron]

By the way, a point of order for B1RDY—

The title of this thread is “My PKD Bladerunner 2049 pistol build.”. The BR 2049 version of the pistol used the Weaver knob, not the slotted screw. If you’re going for 2049-accurate, then you don’t need to worry about the screw!

Just sayin’!


Mind you, my tongue is firmly in cheek, here. Build your PKD however you wish. It just now occurred to me that you’ve been hunting for the screw from BR 2019, but mentioned BR 2049 in the thread title!

 

[B1RDY]

Well, I gave the grips a good polish. First with Novus # 3, then # 2. Then, I worked to carefully layer # 2 into the grip texturing. Did a few applications. Still needs a bit of work before the final Novus cleaner/glazing for the rest of the grips.

I also began adding some putty to the rear lip of the bolt, where it should meet flush with the receiver. It’ll take some more work, but the gap is slowly being eliminated. Also, with a little more sanding, the bolt action is much looser, now.

And the alignment pins for the sight are still curing. I may also glue a thin steel rod inside the sight, for structural integrity (while still leaving wiggle-room for wires, should I end up going with illuminated green LEDs).

Also, upon studying screencaps and photos, I may have been mistaken in my assertion that the vertical tube connecting the clip housing and the .44 barrel is too small in the kit.

View attachment 1459416

Meanwhile, the dummy .44 special rounds arrived. I rather like the black coloring—something a bit different (...and more future-noir?) than the standard brass. They fit nicely into the cylinder (might need a bit of sanding to loosen the things up a bit before adding paint), although the rear flanges of the rounds prevented the cylinder from properly closing. Sanding down the front of the cylinder a bit helped fix that.

View attachment 1459415

For my .44 rounds I got some empty shells in the UK from a company called Relics.