My PKD Bladerunner pistol build.

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robotprops

Active Member
Upon closer inspection, I realized that the cylinder the kit came with has a built in non functioning shell ejector. The Don Parker cylinder was made for the Tomenosuke with a working ejector. If I can’t figure out a work around for that, I may have to scrap my idea for the metal cylinder.
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0A6D2A5D-2A15-4E83-950A-FBD1AB465012.jpeg
 

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robotprops

Active Member
A little progress today. I picked up a Charter Arms Bulldog grip frame a few years ago. I got that trimmed to size. I’ll get the appropriate holes drilled in that.
D656D039-574D-45FF-A50D-8FED4029B7AD.jpeg

I got some hardware installed and started a test fit.
CFA330C0-6827-4473-B353-BCFEF5368920.jpeg


But, a couple setbacks occurred. I heard a crack at some point and when I got it apart I found a huge crack in the fore part of the grip frame and while gently fitting the bolt I snapped the handle off, so I’ve got a bit more work to do.
C327521D-6A9B-4450-890E-7E463876286D.jpeg
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AjaxIronside

Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Ooh! That's rough. I actually just made the same mistake with my Bill's Replicant Blaster a couple nights ago when disassembling - accidentally broke the arm that holds the cylinder inside of the cylinder in a way I couldn't get it back out, and then when trying to really carefully drive a small screw to reconnect the bits I shattered the entire hinge.

Something about screws, man.
 

ComeradeDog88

New Member
A little progress today. I picked up a Charter Arms Bulldog grip frame a few years ago. I got that trimmed to size. I’ll get the appropriate holes drilled in that.
View attachment 1466654
I got some hardware installed and started a test fit.
View attachment 1466655

But, a couple setbacks occurred. I heard a crack at some point and when I got it apart I found a huge crack in the fore part of the grip frame and while gently fitting the bolt I snapped the handle off, so I’ve got a bit more work to do.
View attachment 1466656 View attachment 1466657 View attachment 1466658
This actually just happened to me in the exact same spot on my model. I just ended up supergluing it back into place. Since I lined everything up exactly it didn’t look like anything even happened. Hope you find a solution on your end.
 

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wayouteast

Well-Known Member
I heard a crack at some point and when I got it apart I found a huge crack in the fore part of the grip frame and while gently fitting the bolt I snapped the handle off, so I’ve got a bit more work to do.
Sorry to see that. :confused:

Too late now, I know, but with the Samaritan kit I've just finished, and in my dry fits of this kit, I've discovered that a tiny drop of sewing machine oil (or any other light machine oil) in the tapped hole before assembly lessens the friction of the screw a lot. The screws will still hold fine, but you don't get that nasty squeaking 'stick' ... or (at least in my case so far, touch wood) the stress that can lead to cracking. Of course I used oil when I was tapping the screw holes too.

From my experience with the snapped cylinder pin on my Samaritan, I'm pretty sure that the epoxy mend will hold fine, though. I used JB Weld on mine, but the they're similar in tensile strength I think. If you haven't already, I'd be tempted to pin the bolt handle together as well as gluing it... just to be safe.
 

Gregatron

Sr Member
I’m still in a holding pattern, waiting for parts to arrive.

Meanwhile, the LEDs continue to vex me. It WAS working. Then, after letting it sit overnight, I flipped the switch, and nothing. The same thing happened a few days ago, but then the LEDs worked again when I swapped out the battery for another one. Very, very strange.
 

B1RDY

Active Member
I’m still in a holding pattern, waiting for parts to arrive.

Meanwhile, the LEDs continue to vex me. It WAS working. Then, after letting it sit overnight, I flipped the switch, and nothing. The same thing happened a few days ago, but then the LEDs worked again when I swapped out the battery for another one. Very, very strange.
Definitely a short draining the battery maybe the switch
 

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Gregatron

Sr Member
Try removing the switch from the circuit and join the switch wires together and remove battery and put it back in a few times to test led function

Yes, I’ll do that when I get some time.

Meanwhile, anyone got any suggestions/part number for an accurate switch replacement? Just needs to be a microswitch with a white slider.
 

robotprops

Active Member
Sorry to see that. :confused:

Too late now, I know, but with the Samaritan kit I've just finished, and in my dry fits of this kit, I've discovered that a tiny drop of sewing machine oil (or any other light machine oil) in the tapped hole before assembly lessens the friction of the screw a lot. The screws will still hold fine, but you don't get that nasty squeaking 'stick' ... or (at least in my case so far, touch wood) the stress that can lead to cracking. Of course I used oil when I was tapping the screw holes too.

From my experience with the snapped cylinder pin on my Samaritan, I'm pretty sure that the epoxy mend will hold fine, though. I used JB Weld on mine, but the they're similar in tensile strength I think. If you haven't already, I'd be tempted to pin the bolt handle together as well as gluing it... just to be safe.
I had thought to put a pin in with the epoxy, but it was hard to line up just right, so my plan is to install one from the back.
 

wayouteast

Well-Known Member
Yes, I’ll do that when I get some time.

Meanwhile, anyone got any suggestions/part number for an accurate switch replacement? Just needs to be a microswitch with a white slider.
I'm not sure where you are, but these (on Amazon.com) might do. These (on eBay in the UK, are the ones I used before on my Water Gun conversion and will probably use on my Anders.
 

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