Cataras
New Member
Thanks!I got it from a run over on Propsummit back in 2016. The maker is in Italy and goes by Sarednab. He’s here on the RPF too.
It’s a really nice rendition. Handmade glass with no cracks.
Thanks!I got it from a run over on Propsummit back in 2016. The maker is in Italy and goes by Sarednab. He’s here on the RPF too.
It’s a really nice rendition. Handmade glass with no cracks.
Honestly, that's the best part about model making is getting the little extra pieces in the mail. Half the experience for me is opening envelopes!Ah, goodies...always a welcome moment![]()
This actually just happened to me in the exact same spot on my model. I just ended up supergluing it back into place. Since I lined everything up exactly it didn’t look like anything even happened. Hope you find a solution on your end.A little progress today. I picked up a Charter Arms Bulldog grip frame a few years ago. I got that trimmed to size. I’ll get the appropriate holes drilled in that.
View attachment 1466654
I got some hardware installed and started a test fit.
View attachment 1466655
But, a couple setbacks occurred. I heard a crack at some point and when I got it apart I found a huge crack in the fore part of the grip frame and while gently fitting the bolt I snapped the handle off, so I’ve got a bit more work to do.
View attachment 1466656View attachment 1466657View attachment 1466658
Sorry to see that.I heard a crack at some point and when I got it apart I found a huge crack in the fore part of the grip frame and while gently fitting the bolt I snapped the handle off, so I’ve got a bit more work to do.
Definitely a short draining the battery maybe the switchI’m still in a holding pattern, waiting for parts to arrive.
Meanwhile, the LEDs continue to vex me. It WAS working. Then, after letting it sit overnight, I flipped the switch, and nothing. The same thing happened a few days ago, but then the LEDs worked again when I swapped out the battery for another one. Very, very strange.
Try removing the switch from the circuit and join the switch wires together and remove battery and put it back in a few times to test led functionI’ve been leaning toward a defective switch, myself.
Try removing the switch from the circuit and join the switch wires together and remove battery and put it back in a few times to test led function
I had thought to put a pin in with the epoxy, but it was hard to line up just right, so my plan is to install one from the back.Sorry to see that.
Too late now, I know, but with the Samaritan kit I've just finished, and in my dry fits of this kit, I've discovered that a tiny drop of sewing machine oil (or any other light machine oil) in the tapped hole before assembly lessens the friction of the screw a lot. The screws will still hold fine, but you don't get that nasty squeaking 'stick' ... or (at least in my case so far, touch wood) the stress that can lead to cracking. Of course I used oil when I was tapping the screw holes too.
From my experience with the snapped cylinder pin on my Samaritan, I'm pretty sure that the epoxy mend will hold fine, though. I used JB Weld on mine, but the they're similar in tensile strength I think. If you haven't already, I'd be tempted to pin the bolt handle together as well as gluing it... just to be safe.
I'm not sure where you are, but these (on Amazon.com) might do. These (on eBay in the UK, are the ones I used before on my Water Gun conversion and will probably use on my Anders.Yes, I’ll do that when I get some time.
Meanwhile, anyone got any suggestions/part number for an accurate switch replacement? Just needs to be a microswitch with a white slider.