M60 Machine Gun Prop 3D printable 1:1
mutronics
Sr Member
Ah! Cool! For some reason I thought you had made it in tinkercad and it was making my head hurt trying to work it out lol!
TazMan2000
Master Member
I designed a lot of stuff in Tinkercad previously. It is a simple program but you can design some pretty complicated stuff in it by delving deep into the tools and using boolean operations, but it doesn't work well for complex curved items. Even 123D has its limitations.
TazMan2000
Thank you very much sir
mutronics
Sr Member
Yes, I've starting working with Tinkercad and it's great but as you say has its limitations. I was looking at getting Plasticity but think ill have a look at the Autodesk 123 as well.
TazMan2000
Master Member
Plasticity is a really different way of working with models and is really powerful compared to anything like Tinkercad, but also significantly different because it is a surface modeller. If you're just needing something that can do chamfers and fillets really easily, 123D Design is faster and much easier to learn. If you're wanting to design something like a motorcycle helmet, with complex curves and vents, then maybe Plasticity is the way to go.
I had a lot of trouble at the start of learning Plasticity because the videos online had a lot of details that you had to listen to in order to ensure your model was watertight and could be converted into a solid.
TazMan2000
TazMan2000
Master Member
Now that is something I would love to print
My brother and dad were both machine gunners, my dad in Korea and my brother in Vietnam. I want to print a M60 for my brothers birthday in Octorber and I'm really impressed with your design. I use Autodesk inventor for most things, free to me for being a coach in First Robotics. If i download the model from Cults will I be able to modify it in Inventor if I find any issues. I have a Anycubic Kobra 2 Max so I can print up to 16 x 16 x 20. Very impressive design.
TazMan2000
Master Member
Hi Keffer,
Thanks for the compliment. With a lack of accurate and extensive blueprints, I had to work with what I've had, which is some blueprints available part of the receiver, but mostly with photos. Some parts had to be modified for ease of printing and to accommodate the strength of the printed material, but the total length should be good.
The model is in STL format. To assist in protecting my designs, I don't export in any other format. If there are any problems, I can make changes.
TazMan2000
I understand, thank you for the reply.
I have downloaded the design and so far I'm very happy. Is there a certain filament you recommend to get the most realistic finish?
TazMan2000
Master Member
Any filament should do, but I recommend PLA since it is stiffer than PLA plus. Remember to sand/file mating parts and ensure your printer is calibrated. You want some parts that fit into the reunion to be tight but removable, if you want that sort of functionality.
TazMan2000
I'm looking more for a color and texture that would match the original.
TazMan2000
Master Member
For canned spay paints, there isn't much to simulate the colour, but I did use Rustoleum Chalked Charcoal on my M2HB along with using rub and buff on edges sparingly. Tamiya X10 is a gun metal colour that more closely matches the original coating, however, as you see in a lot of pictures the M60 is usually weathered quite well. Sometimes spray painting a black as an undercoating and then going over and highlighting areas in an airbrush with a light grey, mottled appearance, accompanied with a light rust, then going over that lightly in a charcoal may give you the desired effect. This takes experience but YouTube has several videos of weathering prop guns, which do help in making things look better than just spay painting, but I find that videos that teach you about getting a mottled appearance on aircraft tend to me more helpful.
The plastic pieces like the foregrip and the buttstock most likely can be painted in a semi-gloss black.
TazMan2000
So far the print is going pretty good. So far I have found that Hatchbox Matte PLA in Ash Grey is giving me the best finish. One thing I would suggest is that the diameter of the alignment pins on the barrel be increased. I have printed them twice and with both materials it was next to impossible to see where the holes were. Really likeing this build. I will let you know if I run into anything else.
TazMan2000
Master Member
I can increase the size of the holes with out too much trouble, but if they are too large, they might interfere with the outside walls. Do you print on a smooth surface? If so, you can see the filament tracks. On the top the tracks will get obscured if you use ironing.
TazMan2000
Beautiful job! This gun has long been on my wish list. Will you be selling the files for printing?
TazMan2000
Master Member
Thanks. PM Sent.
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