Scratch-Built Boba Fett (RotJ Version) - Part 1, The Jetpack...

spidermanna

New Member
1724712425547.png

This is the first ‘tutorial’ in what might end up being about a bunch of tutorials (depending on how much interest they get or if anyone really cares to read and look at a crap-ton of pictures) describing how I made my Boba Fett costume. Had planned to do this months ago (hence all the pictures) but I am lazy plus there didn’t seem to be that much interest in it on the site I was one since most folks buy their gear or 3D print it. I’m cheap and I hate sanding but one thing I do love doing is building things and overcoming challenges…I guess that’s two things. I will say I got a TON of virtual inspiration and diagrams and pictures and templates from various folks at DentedHelmet.com and BobaFettBuilders.com so I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the awesome people who post on those sites and where I can (remember), I will mention who the are and/or look them up. One issue I did have with those sites was getting usable search results. I knew at the time (and still believe) that everything I have done some one else or many someone else’s have already done. Like stitching up their own gloves or cobbling together a pair of bizarrely shaped boots with spiky toes but I couldn't find any, even though the site goes back like 20 years! I assume its me but in many cases, I had to just on pictures. Like a I said most people apparently buy or 3D print most of the costume parts or look for the original materials and chop them up to make the props—I just couldn’t in good faith do that, not even to a casio calculator that I would have had when I was like 12…

Anyway, so, little background, started working on this in March 2020 right after C2E2 in Chicago where I got to meet one of my (maker) idols, Adam Savage. Prior to C2E2, I’d made a couple of prop guns and whatnot for my kids and a Hicks costume out of fiberglass (which is way before the Buc-ee’s version in the back, which is PVC (except the helmet)). If any of you have worked with fiberglass, then you know it sucks. Its sticky, messy, and gets into everything…But, it was all I knew how to use at the time so the first iterations of the helmet, gauntlets (actually vembraces), and jetpack were all fiberglass and all failures. Unfortunately ,that took me about a year or so to figure out…


1724712483403.png

Original heavy cardboard jetpack frame. The template came out of DentedHelmet.com but I appologize, I don't recall who created it but they are awesome!


1724712620529.png

Original Fiberglass version (1 of 2)...“Prepare to do a $h!tload of sanding…”


1724712716025.png

One day while working on the ‘receiver’ for the EE-3, I thought “What if I threw some corrugated PVC into the oven? What’s the worse that could happen?...Probabably brain damage...


1724712774043.png

I made a wooden mold this time (that wouldn’t melt or deform)…


1724713180423.png

And cooked it a could times while it was wrapped around the form…


1724713216726.png

Mind blown! That changed EVERYTHING! All the previous stuff I’d labored over (fiberglass helmet, vambraces, etc) were trashed and everything from this point on was PVC. The large round form for the yellow center crayon (missile holder) was made with 4" schedule 40 PVC and some beveled 2x4s on either side. To make the pieces taught, you heat the PVC, lay it over the form, and push wood slats down on either side or clamps (see above picture)...


1724713284640.png

Always make pieces oversized so they can be cut down. To cut this PVC, you only need to score it with a razor blade and snap it or cut it with kitchen scissors...


1724713395596.png

The wooden circles made from plywood would eventually hold up the yellow crayon that is the base of the rocket launcher…I think…


1724713700816.png

For the protruding parts, I used plastic 'for sale' signs from Menards as they were easy to cut and you can heat bend them with a low setting on a heat gun. The inner piece (thin white piece bellow the "SALE") was made from EVA foam, molded with silicone and corn starch, and cast in Polyurethane (hence forth referred to as "Poly" since its used a LOT on this build)...


1724713988065.png

With the frame completed, I started working on the roundy bits (rocket, rocket base, fuel canisters, jet trusters, etc.)


1724714024643.png
1724714061770.png

It really helps to have a lathe…just sayin…




1724714105420.png

These were actually made using cheap plastic Christmas tree bulbs. I put little EVA foam squares into the center and poured them full of Poly. Glue the two halves together, bondo, and lathe until smooth as shown above.



1724714165988.png

Then came the molds for a bunch of other parts…



1724714216675.png
1724714303973.png

Again, helps to have a lathe...
Tubes are just 4" PVC pipe and a thinner one (1.5" I think)





1724714442215.png
1724714468059.png

This one was made with a bunch of plastic straw-like coffee stirrers and hot glue…




1724714527790.png
1724714564963.png

...which was made this into this...
It was at this point I understood why people prefer to 3D print these…regardless…



1724714609033.png
1724714649590.png

The prime building material of choice is Schedule 30 Thin Wall PVC which comes in 4” diameter x 10’ long tubes at any big box store. I make just about everything out of this stuff. It bend easy once heated, glues easy and requires minimal if any sanding (except at jointed areas). It can also be heated and reformed numerous times. Probably not as easy to use as Warbla, but its way, way cheaper and more abundant. That being said, it does smell when you bake it in the oven or with a heat and probably off-gasses toxic fumes at high temps so wear a respirator! I trimmed down PVC caps to make the thin piece (see above)




1724714706942.png
1724714725643.png
1724714907514.png
1724714937255.png

My molding agents are 100% silicone caulking and corn starch. Silicone produces a smell you can taste so be warned. Pre-COVID it was super cheap—now not as much but definitely cheaper than the stuff at the hobby stores. I will say that over time the molds tend to shrink so don’t doddle once you make one—cast the poly within a few days or it might shrink.



1724714976235.png

I think I used the cap off of a bottle of vitamins to mold the base of the rocket, but added that later…




1724715022744.png
1724715043612.png

The cones of the thrusters were a bit more complicated having extremely thin plastic sheeting glued on the inside and outside with notches cut into the PVC beforehand (don’t glue down the area you intend to cut out!). I shined a light through them to see where they were and cut around them…




1724715101698.png

I didn’t take any pics of making the little round things in the center of the thruster balls, but they were just ½” PVC pipe notched, filled in with poly, lathed, then casted.


1724715128083.png

I had a brilliant idea to use clear plastic for the back of the jetpack so I could see what I was doing. This came in super-handy later…


1724715158949.png

Status up to that point. The “grappling hook” wings don’t come out as saw no use for it—he never used them for that, and it turns out it’s a rocket anyway according to the Book of Boba Fett (always knew it was a rocket!)


1724715181037.png

The harness is pretty straight forward. To bend PVC pipe, DON’T USE A HEATGUN—use heated sand. Get it up to like 180-dgrees and pour it in with a funnel. Its becomes like a rope; a really hot rope so always wear gloves (wear gloves whenever handling hot PVC). I made a form out of MDF to bend it around. And yes, I welded the strap rings (at also helps to have an oxyacetylene welder (or MIG welder if you have one—I do not ☹…yet). Bend those around an oak form that is wet or it might catch fire!


1724715213571.png

If you plan to do this for realz, get a mannequin! I call this one Kenny—he is a lifesaver! FYI, the original tube was ½” PVC but changed it to a thinner one later in addition to making the upper straps elastic and the lower straps removable and held on with Velcro (more on that in the Flak Vest tutorial).


1724715245416.png

Back to the Jetpack. Had a LOT of cleanup to do to make these pretty. All you have to do is put the tube in place and mark where it touches the plastic and trim that bit with a Dremel and keep working your way down…


1724715283156.png

Making this thing was a nightmare. I 3D printed one as a backup but never had to use it (probably should have though…) My beacon light doesn’t light up—it's just there.


1724715334967.png

I casted a ¼” dowel rod to make a rounded top for the back of the jetpack


1724715368843.png

Shown before the edge piece has been trimmed off and wraps around the sides. The cone shaped caps and bases on the “fuel tanks (tubes)” (assume that’s what they are) where just pieces of wood turned in the lathe and casted in poly like most of the parts.


1724715441546.png

So one of my many “Mannavations” on this build was the added magnetic retractable clips at the base of back of the jetpack. These keep the jetpack from falling off as they hold onto the metal bar on the harness. I used a long skinny magnet to make the bottom “spring back” when pushed in. (Sorry, my garage is a mess...its always a mess...)

More to come in Part IB as I think I ran out of space...
 

Attachments

  • 1724715699152.png
    1724715699152.png
    1.5 MB · Views: 63
  • 1724714867109.png
    1724714867109.png
    1.5 MB · Views: 63
  • 1724715663691.png
    1724715663691.png
    1.7 MB · Views: 64
  • 1724715644234.png
    1724715644234.png
    1.6 MB · Views: 76
  • 1724715619499.png
    1724715619499.png
    1.6 MB · Views: 75
  • 1724715557033.png
    1724715557033.png
    1.3 MB · Views: 69
  • 1724715531105.png
    1724715531105.png
    1.6 MB · Views: 65
  • 1724715508185.png
    1724715508185.png
    1.4 MB · Views: 64
  • 1724713118168.png
    1724713118168.png
    1.5 MB · Views: 76
  • 1724712666035.png
    1724712666035.png
    1.4 MB · Views: 71
1724716243776.png

Now comes the fun part—priming, painting, and weathering…


1724716268231.png

Base coat is metallic silver.


1724716292795.png

This was the template I used. I have no idea where it came from or if its even accurate but it looks cool as hell…Goal was to make it look like this as much as possible...


1724716343061.png

First coat (of the giant yellow Crayola Crayon)… (notice the masking has been removed)


1724716366526.png

Second coat (I think)…


1724716385410.png

Third coat. I used a color scheme I pulled off of DentedHelmet.com. All of the paints (except the silver) where humbol through an airbrush (which is better illustrated on the Chest Armor tutorial)…


1724716418877.png

Next coat...I think I missed some pics btwn last coat and this coat...sorry about that


1724716462658.png

Used Humbrol Masking agent with a fine metal tip applicator which is way easier than painting. I will say, don’t rub it on painted surfaces as it leaves scratches—be very gentle…the applicators are available on Amazon. This came from the advice of someone on Dented Helmet or Boba Fett Builders...


1724716540419.png

Almost done. Still needs the cryptic lettering on the base. Not sure when I made that but it was before the acrylic overspray, which is next…
In case you are curious, my son was building a 1/48 F-15C Eagle on the table behind the Jetpack...


1724716613627.png

Once I finished all the enamel painting, I over sprayed the whole thing (parts individually) with Acrylic spray sealer. Following the overspray, weathered by going over various areas with acrylic Burnt Umber and black (use black sparingly). It really makes the colors pop…Yes, I used an airbrush (not pictured)


1724716742329.png

Close up of the inside—used a bungee cord to hold the thrusters in place. Note that all the hardware no one ever sees is not installed yet…


1724716759725.png

This how I keep the rocket In place since its essentially the top bit on a long ½” PVC tube with a screw in it. The sand paper keeps it from spinning—the screw make it removable so I can take it apart so it is easier to pack in the crate to shows.


1724716785868.png

The finished harness with that shower tube microphone adapter thing that plugs into the bottom of the jetpack. Note that the straps that would normally hold the TWA Airlines seatbelt are missing. Mainly because I use Velcro that affixes to the vest so it never slides down. Also, it comes off with the vest which makes it easier to adjust and put on/take off…


1724716817723.png

The magnetic clip locking mechanism


1724716845550.png

The annoying hooky bit my wife struggles with at every show…


1724716869296.png

As seen from the back…like everyone else, I used a guitar stand to hold it still and store in the office...


1724716940421.png

An obligatory self-indulgent closeup of the detailing…I forgot to mention that like 3 years ago, my wife tried to one-up one of her friends who had a Cricut and used to make everything by buying a Cameo Silhouette 4 and then proceeding to not bother using it or even learning how to use it. So I figured it out and was able to make stenciling for the various 'letters'/'symbols' on the base of the Jetpack. The Silhouette came in extremely handy when I made the Chest armor damage, crest, and Mythosaur shoulder image (but that is a different post I haven't made...yet)


1724717233813.png

Another obligatory self-indulgent closeup of the detailing…


1724717258109.png

Hard to believe this was once a $26 piece of corrugated PVC used to make roofs with…


1724717279576.png

Closeup of the crayon…sorry, I didn't realize how dusty this thing was...



1724717325350.png

And a closeup of the vent (assume it’s a vent). I’ve seen different versions of this and I liked this one. The vent piece was made from this pieces of MDF that were glued, shaped and casted in poly. Again, probably would have been easier to 3D print---but where is the fun in that?? I think in reality the entire vent area would be completely black from the filthy rocket exhaust but this looks better on camera...


1724717401460.png

And finally back to the front and the end of my show.

In fairness, I won’t claim that everything (or anything) is perfectly screen accurate or adheres to 501st guidelines. Much of this is interpretation and making it look/work what’s best for me while still keeping the spirit of the 1983 film but with upgraded materials, so sure its like a cover version of the original, but it’s a damned good cover version of the original (I like to think of it as Phil Collin’s cover of “Can’t hurry Love” or the Beatles’ cover of “Twist and Shout” or “Rollover Beethoven”. In each of my builds, I didn’t necessarily go by the methodology that they have to be absolutely screen accurate so please don’t point out the numerous flaws and inconsistencies, like I think I made at least one of the stencils upside down and I didn’t put that rivet in the right side white piece cuz I didn’t like it. Regardless, I hope you enjoyed this very extensive and picture-heavy tutorial. Let me know if you want to see others…
 
Last edited:
This is super intense. I have so much respect for you; with this day and age technology you don’t need skills anymore beside load and click print… you’ve gone back to the prop makers roots

Much respect my friend
 
This is super intense. I have so much respect for you; with this day and age technology you don’t need skills anymore beside load and click print… you’ve gone back to the prop makers roots

Much respect my friend
Thanks so much for the kind words-makes it worth posting these! I enjoy the hands-on part of building stuff, especially if there is a challenge to it. I have a 3D printer but kind of sucks and I hate sanding. I truly appreciate the folks that took the time to make the awesomely useful templates I can copy from vs having to make my own. Luckily, I only had to do that did that for the EE-3 and most of the soft parts only. A tutorial on making the gauntlets (more accurately vembraces) is probably next…thanks again!
 
Back
Top