Let's Talk All Things 3d for prop creation, Scan, Design, Sculpt (real and digital), Print and Finish

[greenmachines]

I've been printing for years at this point and I'm pretty much exclusively using elegoo PLA now, it works great and is very affordable. BTW I find UV curing superglue to be the way to go for whstever reason it sticks much better

Thank you

 

[greenmachines]

Ive just encountered will not load filament /blocked for the first time last night.
At first I thought my tubes were twisted but after taking them all out and poking filament through I found no blockage so next step was the hot end and after using the maintenance cycle which I heated to 95° pulled out a piece of compressed dirty filament.
Ive since reheated as its still blocked and could feel a gooey blockage but cant clear it.
Looking on Bambu site there are some filaments which can cause blockages Sparkle is one such filament which is what I was foolishly using to use it up as it didnt work well before.
I removed a further iinch strand which also removed some black and green from previous prints.
I dont know if leaving ithe Bambu on for long periods helps or causes a build up over time?


I have checked everything else so a new nozzle it is..

Any one have a preference for an A1 Bambu?

this sounds precisely like laellee 's comment that sometimes a new tip is the best answer

 

[Mottrex]

I h

this sounds precisely like laellee 's comment that sometimes a new tip is the best answer

I had to give it a go but indeed a quick search on Amazon and one day delivery with Prime!
Once im back from Plymouth Ill hopefully be back in action..

This ANH isnt going to print itself..

 

[Mottrex]

Although not professional guidance, this is simply a product review. I have had solid success with superglue when connecting 3d printed PLA filament parts. I often use baking soda as my filler if there is not a perfect match between two parts.

However, I have had NO SUCCESS using gel superglue as though it simply will not make adhesion with PLA. Given, I have little love for gel superglue in any project but for PLA, it simply does not bond. Like popping candy out of a candy mold after it cools, that level of non adhesion.

Here we have my Tomahawk of recent work. I had gelled the contact so I had some time to move it while lining up the parts and then taping. It held for several days while I painted several layers and today it came apart like an oreo cookie. Perfectly smooth release as though only the paint had held it together View attachment 1936684

I use superglue/Cynoacrylate for a lot of my prints and as long as i have prepped with a nice course sandpaper sticks pretty well.
But I like to go Belt and braces on larger sized prints, I have a ESB jetpack Ive had tapped to my Fett mannequin which needs making.
My plan is to both glue then weld and finally as I might wear it out Nut and bolt the four sections together..
I am also tempted to buy one of those heated staple guns.

I'd hate for it to fall apart... Embarrassing or what.
Im tinkering with adding connection pieces to future prints but its dependant on the print wall thickness.

 

[laellee]

I'd hate for it to fall apart... Embarrassing or what.
Im tinkering with adding connection pieces to future prints but its dependant on the print wall thickness.

I had what felt like YEARS of experiments with different adhesives, with mixed results. I use 2-part syringe plastic epoxy now, but I also don't build as much as I used to.
In regards to strength between parts/ etc, a habit I picked up a long long time ago was to run 5.4 mm channels between pieces to strengthen the joint and help with alignment.

So on the blade of a sword, I'd run at least 2 channels out towards the edges, and then use steel rod (cheap and available at hardware stores) to shish-kebob the parts on as I glued them together; the rod adds strength, and the multiple rods also make the parts align more properly. Just run adhesive down into those channels before assembly, and even smooth rod grips and works awesome. I have used threaded rod as well, but really I didn't notice enough of a difference to spend the extra money. Also, why 5.4mm? Because if you sell or distribute your files in europe/etc, 5mm rod will work great.... If you are stuck here in the USA, 3/16" rod is compatible in those same holes.

I also use those same channels between large parts just for alignment, so the rods only go into each piece maybe 2-3 inches. Cut a figure body in half, one channel in each of the four corners or the mating surface, and then it doesn't shift when you glue. I used to add slots and tabs, but I like those joining surfaces being flat so I can orient them like that with no supports when printing.

Anyways, I dunno maybe everybody else does this already, but it's my go-to for rodding parts. It won't save from damage when dropping a 5 foot sniper on the ground, but the rifle also won't explode into a pile of Legos either

 

[Mottrex]

I had what felt like YEARS of experiments with different adhesives, with mixed results. I use 2-part syringe plastic epoxy now, but I also don't build as much as I used to.
In regards to strength between parts/ etc, a habit I picked up a long long time ago was to run 5.4 mm channels between pieces to strengthen the joint and help with alignment.

So on the blade of a sword, I'd run at least 2 channels out towards the edges, and then use steel rod (cheap and available at hardware stores) to shish-kebob the parts on as I glued them together; the rod adds strength, and the multiple rods also make the parts align more properly. Just run adhesive down into those channels before assembly, and even smooth rod grips and works awesome. I have used threaded rod as well, but really I didn't notice enough of a difference to spend the extra money. Also, why 5.4mm? Because if you sell or distribute your files in europe/etc, 5mm rod will work great.... If you are stuck here in the USA, 3/16" rod is compatible in those same holes.

I also use those same channels between large parts just for alignment, so the rods only go into each piece maybe 2-3 inches. Cut a figure body in half, one channel in each of the four corners or the mating surface, and then it doesn't shift when you glue. I used to add slots and tabs, but I like those joining surfaces being flat so I can orient them like that with no supports when printing.

Anyways, I dunno maybe everybody else does this already, but it's my go-to for rodding parts. It won't save from damage when dropping a 5 foot sniper on the ground, but the rifle also won't explode into a pile of Legos either

I love using anything with a thread, I seem to have aquired a two meter threaded bar which is great and very satisfying watching it splurge into a hollowed out channel. I have also used metal plates and even rebar if ive wanted to add some weight or additional strength to a print, Ive got a webley flare gun print which is great but once ive added a wood stock and barrel is a tad whippy so that needs addressing at some point.

Ive seen grown men cry when someones accidentally dislodged their prized print out of their hands in the wild.
Someone got snagged on a piece of my gauntlet last year but being metal their bag came off worse.. The perils of being not aware of ones surroundings or get your fave out your phone but that's a rant for another thread

Do you add channels when designing a piece or after with tools?