Help with Nice-N SS TIE

[bobbyfett]

Hi All,
I could use some advice on helping clean up some casting errors on my SS TIE kit from Nice-N Models. Here are two pics showing examples of my problem:

As you can see, there are some significant chunks of resin molded in. It almost looks like parts of the silicone mold tore away. It's on both sides of both wings, occurs a few times on each, and I'm stumped as to what to do about it. I don't know how I can recover the fine detail of the Koolshade and I'm also unsure of how I can hollow out the now filled in channels around the edge of the wings. Any ideas? Thanks..

 

[cobywan]

Do you have a Dr Microtools scriber or something similar. You might be able to pick the resin out of the Koolshade pattern with that.

For the edge you might have to cut off the "overhangs" and glue some styrene strip replacements. But for sure put the repaired surface inwards and towards the back of the model if possible.

 

[bobbyfett]

<div class='quotetop'>(cobywan @ Sep 28 2006, 09:31 PM) [snapback]1328394[/snapback]</div>

But for sure put the repaired surface inwards and towards the back of the model if possible.
[/b]

Unfortunately I don't have that option as each side of the wing has the same problem.

I don't have a Dr Microtools scriber either. I do have some regular scribing picks, but I'm afraid the accuracy won't be there.

 

[Beagle Bill]

Don't feel bad, I've got the same "boogers" on mine too. I haven't started on mine yet, but I think I can clean off the majority with my dremmel (if I'm reeeally careful) and some fine sand paper, and maybe etch each of the grooves back into the koolshade area with a panel scriber and a metal straight edge. I'm kind of scared to start on it though, I'll have to lay off the caffine for a couple of weeks first. :unsure I'd also be interested to know if anyone else has any tips for fixing this problem.

 

[Lynn TXP 0369]

Personally and to be honest....

I treat my SS models to be props and not as models, so IMO I think this gives me some leway to how I build it.

I would do one of either two things, smooth it down a little and leave it or just leave it altogether.

That dosn't mean I do a lazy build, but I don't get too bent out of shape or get to anal on these things any more.

I just think of it as a stunt or pyro model pull for a movie were they wouldn't care if that was on there and treat it as such, I'm sure worse things were left on the real models.

Just my thoughts.

Lynn

 

[Jeeves]

Yeah, I wouldn't sweat it. Grind it off, and then scribe in some details. It'll be virtually invisible when you paint it.

-Raj

 

[Krachenvogel]

I dealt with these blobs in the following ways:

On the wing edges, I just cut out the center of the blob with a razor saw, and finished up the edges with files and sandpaper.

For the blobs in the grille areas, I carefully trimmed them out with a 1/2" chisel blade in my big X-acto knife. I was able to match the angles of the Koolshade grille surfaces pretty well, and it wasn't too hard, just time consuming. On the finished model, with everything painted, you can't tell where the blobs were. I don't recommend trying this with a regular #11 blade, though; the chisel blade is the key.

 

[cobywan]

Some of these files are worth thier weight in gold. I found mine for about $17 each. I use them anytime I'm actually modeling.

http://www.contenti.com/products/files/230-701-1_0.html

http://www.contenti.com/products/files/231-900-1_0.html

http://www.contenti.com/products/files/231-999.html

 

[swpropmaker]

Sorry guys about those boogers but with a little time they can be smoothed out and accurate scribes can be done. I use a dremel to move the majority of flash and gunk then go to the trusty file. You see once its painted no one will ever see. You see why I needed to do a remold.. The new wing molds are complete now. Overall not a bad kit I think.

Beats trying to scratch build it thats for sure.

Steve

 

[REL]

nevermind

 

[Less than Super Ostrich]

Mine have the same boogers. I'm not too worried about it. Grind em off and try to replicate a little with some Apoxie Sculpt.

 

[Sidewinder]

Could you not get a block of milliput, wet a 'good' koolshade area so it doesn't stick and press it onto the surface and remove.
Let it set hard and you then have a 'textured' block.
Gouge out the affected areas, roughly fill them with more milliput, smooth and then press your block onto the surface to imprint the texture onto the area.

SAS

 

[cobywan]

That's a great idea actually.

 

[Treadwell]

Hey Steve, where's that link to the assembly/painting guide?

 

[imaginager]

Yeah. How about one for ESB livery, too????

 

[jvasilatos]

The best way to clean the edge "boogers" on the standard wings is to strip the insidesof the "H" beam outer edges completely with a Dremel and just replace them with Plastruct styrene strips .060 x .250 item no. 159. Some minimal sanding and cleanup will make them look nice and sharp the way they should. The best example I can show is how I added the same strips to the "H" beams of the outer frame pieces of my hero TIE buildup:

Make sense?



JV

 

[bobbyfett]

Ugh, these all seem like really involved tasks. Definitely not something I am looking forward to. Steve, what is the possibility of getting a set of those new wings from the new molds? This is being built for a client so quality is definitely a concern for me.

Also, another wing related question, what is the difference between these wings and the "hero" wings that cost a bit more?

 

[MonsieurTox]

<div class='quotetop'>(bobbyfett @ Oct 6 2006, 01:20 AM) [snapback]1332830[/snapback]</div>

Ugh, these all seem like really involved tasks. Definitely not something I am looking forward to. Steve, what is the possibility of getting a set of those new wings from the new molds? This is being built for a client so quality is definitely a concern for me.

Also, another wing related question, what is the difference between these wings and the "hero" wings that cost a bit more?
[/b]

I think the Hero wings are made with Koolshade panels.

 

[imaginager]

The wingstars for the hero version don't have the solar panels between the struts. Therefore, you need 4 wingstars - 2 per wing - to make the hero. Think of these wingstars as a hub with spokes. Then, the basic wing shape is cut from 1mm styrene sheet. Next, the Koolshade is cut (6 pieces for each wing's side for a total of 24 pieces) and fixed to the styrene. If you think of it as a sandwich each wing has: wingstar > Koolshade (6 sections) > styrene sheet (1mm) > Koolshade (6 sections) > wingstar.

The heroes build out real purty.

 

[jvasilatos]

Here's what's involved building up a hero wing.

Side frames (Plastruct H-Beams):

With cardboard pattern sandwiched inbetween to make sure all the side frames are sized right:

Edge beams glued around a sheet styrene piece cut from the cardboard pattern above, painted and edge seams puttied and smoothed, with Koolshade sheets added prior to being locked in by the outer wing star frames which were cleaned and sanded around the edges:

Finished hero wings:

Some extra shots of the scrathbuilt and kitbashed cockpit inside the cored hull to match the cockpit set:

Finished buildup with old Icons base casting (I have a new base I built, I will get pictures up tonight if I can):

I am really proud of this buildup because it's the first studio scale I have built that I wasn't intimidated by trying since it did not involve any advanced painting or weathering techniques but I made up for it adding the interior lighting along with engine lights.

Alan, how is your buildup coming?


JV